Boost+k

its all personal perferance.... but if you run the sigma ones you will need to space the rear to match or it will be funny to drive, snap oversteer not in the good way, sigma with some rca's to reduce the camber abit, the other thing if youre gonna run big camber you need to run big caster to flatern out the wheel while countersteering, and i woudnt go powersteering arms anymore, better to get quick rack with 25mm rack spacer and standard long steerign arms because the p/s ones get ot a point where they fold back and do weird things, and you have a little bit more lock justy my opion from what ive learnt drifting my 70 for the last few months (fun not pro or anything lol) i run 2.95camber and 4 caster hope that helps :party:

youve prob got the O dished pistion 5k motor, has it got adjustable tappets aswell? mine would have about 185psi, and i use to put 15psi through it aswell, i thought it was about 9 to 1, should have reduction starter for these motors. with your tuning its not a air leak is it? havent put extrators in and frgot to skim inlet manifold to match or something? you havent really said what the tuning issue is?

what about a cam regrind and some valve springs?

jdm ae85's run a k50 g/box

i've only ever seen hydro t40/50's from factory, i converted my last t40 on the 5k turbo to cable clutch, was pretty easy, took two attemps because theres 2 differant offsets of flywheel, ones light and the other is heavy, so i have the old setup somewhere for heavy flywheel be aware there is two differant splines for the t50 boxes, so if you get the wrong one you have to machine up a spacer for the bearing on bellhousing end

you just get the doors, pilars, and rear windows from a 2dr wagon then chop, mix and weld. i can't see why it would be that hard for anyone with engineering skills, only hard bit would be getting it legal in aus... it'd be easy as over here in nz, in fact it is my plan when i stack my wagon

the best gasket you can get is the new 5k or 7k genuine toyota, its a 3layer metal gasket, expensive tho! cheaper to buy a whole head set, you can sorta see it in the pic below. good to see someone checking everything before slapping a new gasket in there! what did you do about non-flat head?

in the D1 or any drifting they also run rose-jointed caster arms because the rubber bushes deflet quite abit at speed, you don't need a lath to put more thread on the standard arms you can just run a M16x1.5 tap down them, its what i used to run on mine. (also ran double nuts on each side) most of the ae86/ke70 in the drifting don't run massive caster like the nissans, i.e 7degrees. most will run around the 4 mark, i used to run 5.5 but backed it down to ~3.8 now, steering way to heavy in ke70 chassis other way to gain caster is longer lower arms, and camber tops that sit the top further back and how to find them... they havve 22mm nuts sorta under the rad, the rod then runs back to the lower control arm

thats about what i'd be starting with.... but i'd add some longer lower arms for more track/camber in the front, get the one piece 80's rwd sigma arms, i'd also add some lock spacers because i think you'll be doing some countersteering :P just remember if you do for the longer arms and are gonna do grip racing you need to space rear out about the same amount or it'll become a oversteer monster!!! i'd also add in some rose-jointed caster rods, they give the steering a more direct feel and very little toe changes when suspension travels. i'd also fit some RCA's, there fairly cheap and make a world of differance to bump steer, ###### makes some nice ones aswell btw i run a sr20det in my ke70 with 86 struts, 7kg springs, rca's, trd inserts, caster rods, lengthened lower arms, p/s arms, lock spacers and its pretty close to how i want it, but your driving style might be way different to mine :(

heres about the best pic i can find at the moment, i didnt do the rear in the same way because i didnt think it was worthwhile with a solid diff (i.e no camber) and i didnt need the track to be that wide, so it still has the step in the arch, i did however pull the whole guard out abit with a MASSIVE slide hammer, the rear is double skinned so youd have to use some heat or cut it to get the smooth effect

i run 15x9" with +18 on the rear of my ke70 s/w with 205-50-15's and have heaps of clearance, on the front i run a 15x7.5 -5 with 195-45-15's with 25mm longer lower arms, also run 15x8 +13 and they are extremly close to the strut (like 4mm clearance) but i plan on doing a brake upgrade which will move them out about 7mm and give me enough clearance you can roll the flat bit out of the guard to give more clearance with a dolly and hammer then smooth over like \/ so some spacers on the front and you should be able to fit 9's all round... Good luck and don't forget to post pics!

side drafts would be wayyy better than twin su's, a throat for each cyclinder FTW, but i'd just go efi, smooth, econmicial, temperature adjusted etc..

ive never heard of not be able to regrind the hydro cams.. mine is ground to ~270degrees and i run solids no problem IMO best option is regrind a old 4k solid or similar cam, a12 push-rods, chev lifters and 4k adj rocker gear or get the hydro cam reground... donno how much they can go with hydro lifters but the standard cam is stupidly small, made for low down power only but search and ye shall find... its been covered soo many times

and you can't machine them... there too poris, i've tryed, theres bigger ones out there my turbo carb has 24/29 (if i remember right) but you can't really go bigger than that, my secondary isnt really much of a venturi, but its only there for boost so it doesnt matter to me lol

whats the actual size in mm?

i'd recomend a early hilux G series diff, but all depends what you are gonna use the car for, but if you get the right model its only 20mm wider total, so thats only 10mm a side so you just have to do mounts/drive shaft etc and your away... thats what i run, still run standard hilux drums aswell :y: only problem with the hilux is the lsd design isnt the best for road going cars that want to go fast... its more designed for times where you have NO traction i.e in the mud

rock some 185-55-15s more than enough grip for a K series corolla

i used to only run e10 in my 5k carbie turbo and it loved it... i quite like the smell aswell, but yea you need a retune or else its a waste

don't forget you need the ae86 steering arms up front to make struts fit, and yes use all the ae86 brakes etc and it will stay 4x114.3

strut brace in triangle to firwall is good idea, i also run fender braces, heres a pic\/ if i was gonna make some more i wouldnt make them anything like these i would make them outta some molly 1" tube http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/3716/bracezs2.jpg

i think if you take it apart you will find differnt finger height on the pressure plate causing your problem, i take it was a aftermarket clutch? your options are shorten your cable as mentioned above, put a spacer on the release bearing or fit a different brand pressure plate, only other thing that will affect this is if you have a lightened flywheel where it sits at a different positon from excess machining. cable sounds easist/cheapist

i love your car... what a overrated all rounder, why don't you run the 7.5's on the front and the 7's on the rear to get clearance on the rear and grip on the front?

I'm just doing a similar conversion with a sr20det... i'm paying someone i know to sort my loom out for me, hes gonna leave the trigger for tacho and trigger for fuel pump,, so when i get loom back i will try and trace those two for ya

i'd also tap abit more thread on the caster rods to make the most of them i'd use ae92 shock inserts in the front to keep those falcon springs captive i'd buy some RCA's to get the lower arm at a better angle (cheap from techno toy tuning) if you fit the ae86 shocks then you'll also need the steering arms because they'll be a different bolt spacing unless you got the latest ke70, fit the power steering arms which are shorter so give you quicker steering and more lock (good for when you get to tail happy on wet days) i'd also fit some spacers to bring the rear track the same as front or you'll get more oversteer and a home made strut brace, the differance from fitting one is unbelieveable... i used to get massive understeer in my stock ke70 (years ago) but making a strut brace helped heaps

ke30 arms are the same as XT130(about 10mm longer than ke70) i run them in my ke70 10mm should give you 1 more degree of neg camber... next step up is 30mm longer using the sigma with a few small mods, but with these you'll have to space the rear out to stop excessive oversteer :hmm: