Boost+k

a friend of mine just scored a hks k series turbo kit so i went around to give him a hand and check it all out... runs what looks like a standard carb with a round plenum on top which just looks like a air cleaner box but is cast and has hks on it. runs a cast exchast manifold which is harder to put on than my home made headers (and there a bitch). i havent had a chance to check out the jets yet but will someday and try and post up some measurements.

yea hes right mines off a factory carbie turbo montego so i didn't have to worry about sealing it off but i still get minor leaks from the float bowl unless i use a genuine gasket but then the genuine gasket leaks as soon as i put av gas in it :hammer: i have mine hooked up way different to that diagram above.... next time i put my turbo on i'll try hooking all the pipes up like that but personally i think its wrong.

forgive my ignorance but what does the secondary air bleed look like? i'm thinking of going back to standard carb on mine... i'm sick of the su. its such a c**t on cold mornings. i had another idea for fuel reg. get a holly carb reg and then carefully drill a hole in the top and thread a niple on there run a vac/booost line to that and it will boost reference itself? what ya recon? and Nebuchernezzer i don't think you could run a efi pump on a carbie reg without a return line because you'd have to stall the pump or it'll keep building up pressure unless it has its own internal relif? don't the vl's have little regs on the side of them?

what computer are you using to run it? what pully did you use on the s/c?

yea pipe wrench is the tool to use.... failing that put nut in vise and spin the whole strut by holding onto the spindle????

haha yea but i'm almost never "off boost" i simply can't help myself :dance:

i have a 5k with 4spd 4.37 diff standard motor with single 1.75su carb and 36L gets me ~330k's spend most of my time to and from work on the motorway at 120k so i'm guessing thats about 3900??????? wen i have turbo on there i tend not to look at k's v's Litres because its a bit sad :dance:

i'd look into a 3a-h motor from a toyota corolla II they had elec dissys.... donno if it would work but i don't see why not? i'm pretty sure the 4k dissy fit in but run the other way so you can't use the vac advance :)

Cool... thanks man. now to hunt down some arms :jealous: and about the motor i'd use a 4agze with custom ex manifold and turbo with aftermarket computer and you'll have plenty of power for drifting.. or you could go all out and put a 3sgte in there *drool* and you should use a W series box so you don't have to worry about it spitting the dummy :D

the sigma lower control arms you use? do they fit striaght in or require mods? how much longer than standard ke70 arms are they?

check your fuel filter an't blocked... maybe run without it for testing... next i'd check fuel pressure. maybe watch how full the fuel filter is with it running and see what happens when you acc (usally stay about half full. but really sounds like you might have some dirt or paint chip blocking something in the carb. also check float level

how much gross lift at the valve does this equal to?

fuel float set wrong and not letting fuel through?

sounds like coulsd be a carbie problem. can you see fuel going though the carb? is your fuel pump working? i once put a fuel pump on without the spacer and snapped the drive for the fuel pump off. look there maybe? tow start maybe?

can't you put a meter across the cas and see if you get and resistance changes when rotating it by hand? *just a guess*

sounds to me like you have the wrong needles in your carbs

i thought you'd want some backpressure on the return line??? seeing as there ~45psi atr the feed line.

thanks for that frosty.... theres some good info but unfortunely the measurements i'm after don't seem to be in there. i'm after bore dia, crank journal, big end journers etc.... so i can measure up before i assemble my motor. someone else must know these

haha my thoughts excatly... :) i think you'd also get alot of trouble with the fuel puddling in the turbo due to it being so low.. normally with a suck-tho turbo you try and get the turbo and carb above the inlet manifold and have the track going downwards to the inlet... i wouldn't even bother with suck-thro unless it was a supercharger or a paddock basher.

my fastest is my 84 fwd mazda with a 1600 dohc turbo... 650kg car with 250hp.... shits and giggles for all... but now it just sits in the garage because i'm building a faster rwd one.

i'm looking for the specs of a 5k because i'm about to do a rebuild... eg: all standard measurements, bore size. crank journal, big end journers etc.... i had a look thought the faq and could see them anywhere or did i miss them? cheers Todd

suck-tho turbos are pretty crap... and produce alot of heat so not the best idea.. many people will say there a dead dog... (if you do get it make sure its a carbon sealed turbo) clutchs hold up for a while even with a thrashing and at only $100 for a new one its not bad... but diffs and axels seem to be my problem... with my 4k turbo i didn't have many problems but with my 5k turbo i've snapped a few axels and shatered a few diffs over a short perios of time... (i have a hilux now :) ) if you want a cheap run around then stay away from the turbo.... but if you don't mind fixing your car every weekend and having a bit of fun during the week then go for it... :)

yea i did one years ago with no idea what i was doing the only problem i really came across was those little ball (or rod?) thingies that stop you from putting it into more than one gear at a time.. took me ages to get them right :)

what did you do to fix this? i've blowen a few head gaskets on my 5k turbo latley and its starting to piss me off!

for the dissy can't you use the 3a-u electronic dissy and coil?