Boost+k

"and not 100% sure how they mount up to the top spring mount" to be honest i don't think you'd get much adjustment on corollas with factory springs, the springs are quite close to the tower and think if you wound it in 10mm it would have interferance issues, not like dattos where theres quite a bit of room for adjustment so id imange most of your customers will be ones running coilovers and top spring mount being different on each application just something else to think about

personally i'd say 300 would be about right for a all rounder(as in goes to the track sometimes), i think the point the guys were getting up there is stiff springs are no good without the speed and momentium to get them to move, i.e 8kg will have crap grip on bumpy roads at 50k but have good grip hitting a corner at 180k on a smooth surface with grippy tyres if i was you i'd prob run some trd ae92 inserts,if they fit in your casings(maybe too fat), shorten the casing to get more travel, some rcas's to bring the arm back down, think there about 1400/550nm valving and don't forget to do a dry run (no springs) to set correct bumpstop height so your wheels don't contact anything under extreme loads as for premade "superlows" i think your only option in such extreme spring rates are TRD for ae86, they go upto 8kg i believe, but i don't know if they would give you the height you desire

thats 7.5's on the front theres spools for the 4wd guys out there... MIG spec ftw tho, theres a guy here in NZ that if you send him a lsd, he will take it apart and fit ramps to make it work like a real lsd should, about $700 from memory, i have a few mates with this done i ment useing the s13 hubs, coilovers etc, s13 messes up all the geomery, where bearing sits, intersects etc... s13 crossmember is just the lazy way of doing it, its your car tho so do what you like, just don't some crying when you change back to normal struts and have to start devolping your front end from scratch

basically i cut the old mounts off the crossmember made new ones welded them on, had to cut hole in floor for shifter (it move back quite alot) had to reinforce the area round the shifter cause the bit you cut is strength for the car lol and also cut the rad support and made it removable to get engine in and out, havent tryed taking box out yet, always take motor and box out at the same time bashed the tunnel a tiny bit just ot make it easyier to get in and out but you don't have to

to run the 5k factory solid lifters (3F) you need the pushrods from the 4ke (if your using a 5k twin squish head) or standard 4k ones if your running the O dished pistions and matching head

400lb is pretty damn stiff... i run 450lb in my ke70 wagon with a heavy sr20det and i use it for drifting, i used to run 350pd with the 5k turbo in the same car and it was my daily on the street, also used to hit the tack and i thought it was a good compremise between the two, the thing i noticed when i went to the 450lb was i changed the shocks to trd units and it made it wayyyyyy nicer to drive, so valving is really important when running stiff springs to drop the front 3" i'd recomend you shorten the strut casing with a shorter insert so you still have some travel... would also be running RCA's cause you'll be close to flat lower arm

as far as I'm aware your right the shifter will be in right place BUT bellhousings don't interchange, the ones ive seen have been cut and welded togeather :jamie: i'd love a stronger box :D

hmmm where to start... i have a sr20det in my ke70 wagon that i use for fun drift days, i run hilux rear end, locked, the lsd's are a joke and no good for tarmac use, standard diff is 1400 wide, hilux come in 1370? 1420 and 1470, i run the 1420, i wouldnt run s13 front sus i've heard bad storys about the handling afterwards i run 22mm longer front arms, 8kg springs, strut housings shortened 55mm, ae92 trd inserts, rod-end caster arms(pretty important!), RCA's, and ae85 brakes with metal king pads run the s13 box, ke70 crossmember with mounts welded on, custom g/box xmember, have to cut hole in floor for shifter, (its further back) for the track i run 15x7.5 -5 with 195-45's, although have 14x8 with 185-55's on the front at the mo

good to know :jamie:

chuck a washer under the plug

nah shouldnt need a spacer, 15x7 +13 is a pretty good offset for a ke30, those ones in the pic will be about a +40 according to my eye :)

don't all k series run torque to yeild bolts tho?

yea over here in NZ you can normally get a pair for $100, so $200 to make the wheels lok like they fit the car, donno what your rules are over there but the biggest we are allowed is 27mm and yea will prob handle like crap with wheels sitting so far in lol

deff the southernways, there pretty dope for skinny wheels, you'd be hard pressed to stretch anything on a 6.5" rim, i have a set at home with 175-60-14's , i used to run 15x6.5 +20 on my ke35 with 195-55-15's and it filled guards nicly, so a slihlty smaller tyre on a 0 offset should be sweet

i vote for 30mm bolt on spacers

i was pondering how to make my own dyno the other day and then i spot this topic, but I'm not as clued up on elctronics as you guys but am keen to try someting, I'm not too interested in hp figures, more just plotting the curve so i can tune at home, I don't think a water brake is a option, we have a water brake dyno at work for testing jet turbine engines, (there only like 700hp ones) and the cooling tower and reservoir are pretty massive

last resort use 3kb head on your 4k with cam, is it actually a proper 3kb bigport? if so you only really need to tidy up exchast ports and wak it on your 4k block, will up compression, i'd go single weber or whateva you find at junkyard :wink: and LOTS of entry speed and you can still have fun, just sucks when you don't have the power to save yourself from a mishap lol

well my sr conversion didnt cost me much, brought written off car for $1800, sold $1000 worth of bits, payed 150 for someone to pre-wire my computer, a few grinder blades and gas/wire for the welder, $100 to mod my tank, mind you i do have quite a few hook ups and got a free evo7 intercooler. a n/a setup could be done for quite cheap, 4age, 4g64, sr20, ca18 or whatever you can find, even a 2t/3t would be enough but if your that keen on K series, id just put a sc12 on the side of yor 4k wih a Su car running suck-through 36panvan - there just some skid wheels, gotta take 4 sets for a days fun (would LOVE some wide ones tho)

don't waste your time/money, i did abit of drifting with a 5k turbo in my ke70 wagon and by the end of the day your just pissed off because it wont do what you want/need it to, all good for a clutch kick around a corner to get some slide action but no good for switching and holding drifts, in the wet its a differant story, my car ruled in the wet, but thats just cheating in the end i ditched it and wacked a sr20det in, now i have fun all day and even have smoke lol

hmm well i'll try, but ive never been the best with words, the steering arms from a p/s model are shorter so that makes them quicker to turn because the point your moving (tie rod point) is still moving the same distance but because its closer to the strut son it doesn't need to move as far to get the same result as before, i used to run this setup with 3mm rack spacers for decent lock but at higher speeds it can shutter because the angle of the arm is making the tie-rod arm go backwards, pretty hard to explain without a visual, anyway, its better to run the m/s arms with a big lock spacer like 24mm then you can have big angle and nice and smooth, but its not quick so then you buy the quick rack and you have a best setup IMO and also shorter arms will make the steering heavyier, add some caster and it gets quite heavy, i've actually hurt my wrists switching at speed with big caster and my early setup hope that makes some sence...

yea thats a pretty small tyre, i run 195-45-15s on the track and i thought they were small lol yea shorten the casing, so if you were looking a simsey's setup the red bit above the threaded bit wouldnt be there, so creating more travel, theres a few options for the inserts, i've only ever played with late ke70 casing and there the same as ae86, but early might? be smaller requiring a skinnyier insert i run trd ae92 inserts, and like i said i shortened casing 60mm(with no dust seal), i run kyb ae92 inserts in another of my cars, there a good all round size and stroke, if you want even shorter you'll need sw20? rears, but the valving might not be the best suited other thing to note when going this low you NEED RCA's, theres a aussy company that does 40mm ones i'd reconmend them over the 35mm american ones because you want to go so low

well if you were serious then you'd make new turrets in the rear and a new mount on the diff, a bar to link the turrets and there you have rear coil overs, thats what id do

QFT to drop the car 150mm you'll have to shorten the casings before welding on sleeves, but if you drop it 150mm i think you'll have clearance issues, i shortened my strut casings by 60mm and put short inserts in but with standard 30mm size bumpstop theres no clearance to turn at that height, i run about 55mm bumpstop now. alot of people buy/make coilovers and forget to install them without springs to set bumpstop height so your wheels don't contact anything under full compression

well I'm over in NZ and we didnt get the ke55 but as far as i know they are the same as ke3X which are 10mm longer than ke70, so the same as XT130 (had ke30 arms in my 70 before)

early and late KE-70 have different steering arm bolt spacing, early 87mm and late 85mm? if i remember correctly, late is same as ae86, can run ae86 p/s arms fro quicker steering and more lock, overrated for a streeter but not the best for a drifter or anything, if thats ya plan?