Boost+k

the 0 degree @ Second measurement is a new one to me... i have always just had readings like 3degrees... never at a second? i will look it up and compare. The caster is the rod that goes from the lower arm forwards to the beem under the rad, it has 22mm nuts on it and rubber bushing in the middle. sew if you can see it to point out to the mech. and the camber is postive from factory i believe and from those specs you have less toe-in on the left... i always run even toe, this might be to make it track straight tho?

what alignment settings do you run? normally wear on outside would mean the left hand has more toe-out or caster, alot of alignment places have told me caster is not adjustable on a ke70 but it is you just have to point it out

its a pretty broad question and I'm sure most people stop ready as soon as they get to the skinny bit, to make your car handle better you want more track (wheels that stick out further) and normally wider. Unless by skinny you mean streached tyres... i.e wide rims with dish and skinny tyres with massive sidewall angle??????? edit: i re-read and you mean skinnyer than the pic you showed? you should prob be looking for a 14x7 with a +10 offset to suit a ke70 or 15x7 with +10 to +20 i wouldnt go bigger than 15's but if i were leaving it standard height i'd just go with some tidy/cheap 14x6.5's with a 0 offset or something.

as a rough guide 10mm longer should get you about 1degree, ke30 arms are ~10mm longer than ae86 ones and i think the sigma arms are 25-30mm longer than ae86 so you should get 1-2degrees (thats the sigma 1 peice arms not two-peice) have a look around sites like toymods to get lengths and I'm pretty sure there straight fit

I'm pretty sure the ACL 'O' dished pistions are 4MKRY2892 that should be for the kit with the moly rings 3 ways i know of getting more camber are... 1.longer lower arms 2.adjustable strut tops with coil-overs (proper slide ones not spinning rubber bushed cr@p) 3. Bending the stub angle (only really used for fine tuning)

my angle is correct in my ke70 its just because my car is dropped 3" and the hilux head is so much bigger

you'd need forged pistons, arp head bolts, o'ringed block, copper head gasket a decent aftermarket computer and a knock sensor... the hardest part is getting all 8 ports to seal on a non-crossflow motor under massive pressure and of coarse you need all the other usal upgrades, double valve springs, balancing etc....

curly sounds right to me... my hilux in my ke70 the snout stop was stupidly close and i ended up notching the floor to get travel due to having a bigger diff which had a longer nose and bigger angle/ different shape so it would hit.

damn.... i thought i was lucky to have a couple of K-T bellhousings BUT ther both hydro clutch you gota the ultra-rare cable clutch one!!!!!!!!! (i had to convert mine to cable)

the hilux arnt that good aye.... i've got one and i shimmed it up but its still nothing like a aftermarket clutch lsd... you still don't have confidance to know what its gonna do but my car is a daily driver so the lsd is still in there. apartently its something to do with the ramp angles and you can get new ones made to make it act like a good lsd... theres some guy in NZ that does a exchage and fixes all the problems in them bout NZ$650 if i remember right

the way i do it is cut two sqaure 10mm thick bits of steel that fit inside the sider gears on each side and then weld the spiders to the plate so that way it can't fly apart... and its better if you take the center out, i have heard the crown wheel and pinion wheel can stick togeather from massive heat, the other way is to keep rotating it and dapping oil on the gear faces. and idealy you would arc weld it with low hydrogen sticks (think thats what there called for welding cast) but not needed driving techniques will change from chassis and personal prefance but i alway try and get more camber, caster and track in the front end so you always have good steering and brakes. and make sure your hand brake works good for those times where you get too much understear, but having enough power will fix this aswell 8| this all assuming this is a track or paddock car not a road car :lol:

i think it doesnt need to be that complecated either, i think a turbo blowing through a intercooler through the supercharger with a small amount of water injected at the intake of the supercharger to cool the lobes would be good enough? whenever the car is moving it should be getting fed fairly cold air from the cooler anyway? even maybe using a water-to-air cooler to make sure its always cold?

singa one peice lower arms are about 20mm longer so that should give you what you want

ke35 lower arms are about 12mm longer and sigma lower arms are 30mm or so longer... 10mm equal about -1degree of camber so take your pick....

7k block is wider???? so you can't interchange heads etc???

not suitable... rubber seals

you can mill the head to have bigger chambers. most 4ks are about 9to1 so low boost (upto about 12psi) if fine for pump gas. and you can go for a thick copper headgasket. i would reconmend getting arp head studs etc..

i wouldnt bother with a decomp plate. they arnt very good. but you havent mentioned what motor were talking about here? i would blow through the twins , i've seen a single delloto being blow tho, if would be rather hard to set them up but at least you can change jets etc to get it right. the main thing you'll need is a rising rate fuel reg. the main problem is with the supercharger you'll prob be boosting at idle (and i can't see the motor liking this much) so what i'm doing to get around this is still running the factory clutch set-up and running the switch setup off a adjustable shift light and then i can set it as i want depending on conditions.

su's are way better than standards but no-where near as good as twin webbers. look at the firing order 1-3-4-2 so the 1st pulse comes off the first carb then the 2nd off the second carb and then the 3rd off the second carb aswell and the 4th off the first carb. i know that only one cyclinder is being used at a time but at high revs your bound to loose performance compared to twin webber where each port gets its own supply of air+fuel.

my standard 4k with a turbo on the side would get off the clock in 4th gear with the 3.9 ratio diff (prob going alot faster because i run 185-65-14's insted of factory 165's or watever) but its too scary at standard height floating down the road. been there done that so save it for the track now :)

yep its slow.. no dout about that i mean what can you really expect from a 1300cc turbo??? at what point did i say it was fast??? its fast enough for a daily driver and bit of fun on the track but $80 to go in a straight line 4or 5times just an't justifiable if i'm gonna do that i'll take one of my other cars down the strip. :y:

same here. i know i'm not gonna get very good times so if i'm gonna waste my money i'll enter a motorkana or something and have some sliding fun at the same time :y:

gave my 5k a bit of a tune and now i get 440k's from 36L. thats a standard (tired) 5k running a single su carb with a 4.3 ratio diff :P

sounds like hes on the money there /\ something else is amiss and the computer is compensating with the cold start sensor but once it goes away your leaning out... need to get a wideband sensor up its arse simple things like running a different exchast or fuel system can require a re-tune. but pump going to 95psi is pretty crazy i'd be trying to get a constant 35-40psi of pressure. 20psi is too low and 95 is way too high.

what are your options for lowering?