Boost+k

for drifting i use a shock from the front of a 4wd townace with torsion bars(in the rear of my ke70 wagon)... mates use fronts from hilux's in the rear of there ke70 sedans and ae86's, but they are too long for my car you need extremly hard valving, but will be pointless on a soft spring

i can't find any pics of my setup, but i used the second leaf down and cut it just behind the center bolt, then flipped it on top on the front half of the leafs, then used some 25x5mm flat bar and made a square loop and wraped that around all of the leafs then welded it up (the new bar) so it holds them all togeather for drifting i use the same setup but put the overload leaf back in, and because my leaf pack is pretty straight I'm using the overload leaf all the time, insted of only when you pack the boot full of heavy stuff i also added a sway bar from a ae86, made the car alot more balanced

i've always cut two steel plates (about 10mm thick) squares that fit inbetween the spiders then weld the gears to the plate, that way if it brakes theres nowhere for it to go, although ive never broken one, technically you should use low hydrogen rods(cast iron rods) for welding cast but you diff is never going to get hot enough to require this IMO

i've got a sr20det in my ke70 wagon... what do you need to know? have a look in the techinical builds section for some pics

i've always wanted to build a 3k turbo... i love the way the 3k's rev, a bit of boost and it would be a great motor... also nice thick walls in the block so you shouldn't have much trouble keeping it togeather even with abit of boost :D i wouldn't run a t25 or a vf10 (ihi from subie) (vf8 is even bigger btw) i ran a vf10 on my 4k and 5k turbo setups and IMO its quite a big turbo for a small non-crossflow engine, good for making decent power up top but i don't think thats what your after, i ran the vf10 in a smaller mazda housing to bring the spool time down aswell i'd be looking at a vj6 or vj13 off a mazda b6t if i was going to do a 3k you havent mentioned what you plan to do for your manifold?

to get the milky stuff out of the sump i'd usally mix half a litre of diesel with a litre of oil till its nice and thin then chuck that in with the old oil, run for 5-10 mins then drain the whole lot out while still hot, then run some cheap oil for 50k's and drain again, and put good oil if its all running sweet still

i highly dout that the jets would cause this problem... to me it sounds like there is no power to the cut off solinoid, so then youve tuned/adjusted it to make up for that and it will create problems like this, like said above unplug the solinoid and see if the car dies or idle goes higher or lower

i used to get alot of tramp in my ke70 wagon, i added a half leaf upside down on the top and removed the overload leaf and it transfored the car, made it nice and smooth to drive with no tramp, you also have to make bracket thingies to hold pack togeather i now have put the overload leaf back in because i use the car for drifting so wanted it stiff again (still have half leaf) also turned one of those bolts that hold the pack togeather into a S shape lol, just replaced it with 12.9 grade cap bolts and been sweet since

ive never had any luck with aftermarket sump gaskets EVER.... always just gone back to the gen toyota one and reused it i thought the NZ catalogs were all wrong and i just used the old gasket, it happened to me twice with a aftermarket gasket on different cars (a 4k and 5k) and i said never again!

why not weld it? and yea alloy filling is the other option but i don't see the point, just take it apart and cut some plates and weld them in, you'll brake axels before the diff anyway

there normally polyurethan, seen some guys over here buy lengths of the stuff and machine down in lath to suit, comes in different grades i think

W box for sure... you want w55-w57 not a w50, bellhousing kits arn't cheap tho, there a guy over here in nz that makes them if you can't find anyone local hilux diff (G series) is what i run because i got sick of breaking axels and diffs, and also if you get the right model then its only 10mm wider per side so no shortening, BUT there lsd's are useless, not a proper lsd for tarmac, i run a locker now, lsd is in junk pile F series diff is only slighlty smaller and can handle a fair wack of power and there is lots of aftermarket lsd options and stuff around so id look into that also mk3 supras run G series diff heads in IRS, so you can use them for ratios by putting crown wheel and pinion into a solid axel head as for wheels, how about getting the corolla centers put into some 7" bands so you can run some decent tyres and still look stockish

and the bolt spacing on the struts (where they attach to the steering arm) is different on the late ke70's mine is a nz new 1987 ke70 and has same struts as ae85 so same bolt spacing as ae86 aswell

if you did get a K-T bellhousing you can convert them to cable clutch, i did it to my last one, (if you don't mind a extra hole in the side)

depends on what else you plan on doing.. ie running big lock, longer lower arms, small tyres? i run 15x7.5 on the front of mine in a -5 with 195-45-15s and its sweet but i have longer lower arms and stuff

my turbo used to stall at idle sometimes with 5k factory cam, got a turbo grind done it it and i couldnt believe the differance, it went heaps harder and turbo was spinning proply at idle, 5k cams are designed for low down torque in vans, not something you need in a nice light rolla i still had good low down power aswell, could still cruise up hills at low rpm

i got a 2dr wagon i could take some pics of if you like, you want a pic of the pillar where the catch goes?

i killed about 6 with turbo k series before i went to t40, all died in slighlty different ways aswell

sounds like valve stem seals to me... way i'd normally confirm is drive down hill with foot off gas and it should smoke if its the seals btw; nice setup

as far as I'm aware the xt130 arms are the same as ke35, so if you wanted extra camber and track you'll need to run the sigma ones, should be 15mm longer than yours now, ive never done a xt130 upgrade to a corolla but i think you should check the steering arm length differances, when i fitted 86 stuff to a mates car a while ago we used the p/s arm it was pretty much the same length as the standard 35 arm, if we fitted m/s arms then it would have had slower steering and less lock, so look into this before spending $ i wouldnt run a rear bar without lsd or locker, if it was my car i would run a locker and ke55 rear bar and IMO shocks that are valved to suit your springs are the most important upgrade, it would be the one place i would spend money, everything else can be sourced fairly cheaply, i also wouldnt bother with kings etc... i would just get some custom springs made for the front, i always though the rear leafs were quite firm once you had decent shocks to control them, had konis with standard leafs in rear of a ke35 a few years back and i liked it i donno what height your going for but i would also recomend you look into some RCA's if its dropped by 50mm or more, they make it sooo much nicer to drive its all a matter of opinion and driving style tho

not really a dry sump, more of a pressure valve with resivoir so if you suck up air it keeps feeding oil, big sump should do, mine holds 5L before the oil cooler

nah it all looks strong enough for a beating si... accusump = basically a surge tank for oil, to keep oil pressure at all times

theres a guy over here in NZ that has a gen3 in his carina race car (n/a tho). ive always stayed away from the 3s cause every rwd one ive seen running rwd (not counting altezza's) has run a bearing, but now i know you can just use a acusump to fix that dope ride man, i've love to take it for a spin

i think i trimmed my headlight, behind the mount for the grill and tucked it that way, i don't have much of a front panel left from all the changes over the years haha that little mazda cooler used to be on my fwd b6t setup bak in 2000 aswell and its still in the garage somewhere for later

yep in the sr... drove home like that (45mins at 110k), 70psi and 90psi on cyc 2 & 3 LOL didnt even mark the bores, got the motor back togeather now should go back in car in the next few days yea with the hks manifold it was a late 80's mazda 626 diesel supercharged intercooler, pressurewave i think they were called, driven by a belt and the exchast, and had the little front mount cooler i havent found anything i can't kill yet :rolla: