pyrohamish

Cheers, good spot, sold already though :(

Chasing a 5k or 7k in perth area

Wanted urgent 4k Carby, launceston region ph me on 0429 400 941 Edit: got one thanks to Taz_rx

Look up Procarb in launceston they might be able to help http://www.whitepages.com.au/business/pro-carb/wpb-launceston-tas/B|T03W|926562ec|Pro-Carb

Well I got it all back together and it seems to work. Not a job for the light hearted haha

So I'm rebuilding my K50 gearbox and there is three "interlock pins" where are these meant to go as they just fell out as I broke it down. As a note the rebuild kit that my local drivetrain shop got me had all the bearings seals and gaskets bar one roller bearing that is apparently unavailable. Given this they took the old bearing cage and put new rollers in it for me.

I need a K50 gearbox, doesnt matter what condition inside as long as the housing is in good nick.

Holden commodore vc-vn wagon. Open:530 Closed:320. Gabriel part # 81340

yeah probably..there is a bit of 4k stuff on there though haha, quite common for the 4k carby to be swapped over on the zook motor. here it is for download, didn't think of it earlier doh! http://www.multiupload.com/X25F75ZNBN

Heres a list of gabriel shocks and lengths, I made for auszookers orginally. oops stuffed up attaching, apparently I can't upload an xls or zip http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=19743

the one you want is the genuine toyota yellow book they come up sometimes on ebay

I would get a timing light and see which port advances and which port retards when vacuum is applied then block the retarding port

will have a look in prob a couple of weeks when i get time to spend on the project car

yes it only happens when i press the accel straight hard to the floor fast, it wont do it if i accel a bit slower

I have a 4k in a sierra and i'm trying to sort out the advance. Not sure if this is normal or not but. With the advance vaccuum line on the advance port(i think) the dizzy will go from 8deg down to 0deg for just less than a second then it will come back up past 8 deg and up to whatever.. I havn't tested with a timing light but with it on the manifold it still seems to happen The carb has literally nothing else attached, no emissions or anything only things connected are choke cable, accel cable and advance line, every other port is blocked off. Also this is only testing while sitting in the driveway under no load.

I usually use a combo of a drill through a socket to get it close enough. trick to get out the engine bearing is to pack it full of grease and hydrauliclly push it out by tapping a bit of rod ( usually the shaft of a drill using a piece of wood on the end to hit the hammer against) the right size into the hole.

Well I've done a bit of work doing a virtual lift to run the 33's front guards tapered in to line up with bonnet ~80L fuel tank new seat rear setup start point of some half doors bit of body lift gearbox-transfer alignment engine bay doing the virtual lift

8-16thou from memory

problem with turbines is the massive amount of noise and the constant whine secondly the large amount of reduction needed in the gearbox up to 50 000 RPM from the turbine compared to up to say 8000 for a standard engine

I'd love pic's of the carbie and which hose is what too.

Do you have the spacer on the fuel pump? Should be Block-Gasket-Spacer-Gasket-Pump

Is anyone running a hot spark? How well do they work and what sorta price are they?

Can I just run the vacuum line from the dizzy to the intake manifold?

What happens if I disconnect and these pipes and just block them off?

4k because thats what was sitting on the mounts when I got it, may convert it later. Just mainly focussing on getting something that works for now.