demuire

Really? I can fill my box through the shifter in under a minute (1.5L)

I even got fastest time in 2 out of 6 tests :) WOO HOO!!!

Well, the diff is completely stripped down now. One of the bolts broke, will have to borrow and easyout or something to get it out I think. Also one of the springs in the drum setup is broken, will have to source another spring. Will probably get new wheel bearings, rebuild calipers and get new pads and shoes, maybe new discs while I'm at it but not sure - will measure old discs and see how they are. The old center must've been out of an auto RA28, it's a 3.9:1. Had a few broken bits in it :) Lots of shiny bits and chunky bits in the oil, mmm!

Umm... Because RA28's don't come with rear discs? Oh, they just made the original holes bigger... So that they fitted. So the bolts are like, swimming in a sea of nothingness...

Points is same as motorkhana - time minus penalties. My camera broke, so I have no photos :) Haikal broke himself, so he didn't come either ;)

Camera broken, can't take anymore photos :) Note to self for future, empty oil from diff before disassebling... And I now know how the TRX brakes fit on the RA28 diff, mmm, *dodgy brothers*

Dear Teddy, Okay, some of those I can understand like "ure" and "2" and "orig" and "betta" = "better" (and what's wrong with "hello"?). Those ones are fine, and the spelling fairy can leave alone... But umm... "by" = "buy"? and "saw" = "sore"? Maybe I'm just an old maid, but that looks more to me like a spelling boo-boo than a slang...

OH WOW HOW MUCH FUN WAS THAT??? *GRIN* That must be the most fun I've ever had in a car... Ever. Hal went great all day until just before the last test when my battery terminal decided to become terminally unhealthy and fall apart, but dodgyness to the rescue, pieced it up together and held it together with electrical tape and completed the last test... My trip on the way to the track was interesting though. Put in the harness I borrowed, so driving was a bit strange (never driven with a harness before apart from the motorkhana special at Coffs), and then along the Centenary Highway the rattly exhaust (broke yesterday) started getting louder, and then "BANG!", shocked the hell out of me. Looked in the rear vision mirror and saw the exhaust shield (that I broke yesterday coming back from the dyno) fly out the back of the car, narrowly missing the van that was tailgating me... Oh well, I guess I don't need to weld it back now, because I don't even have it anymore... Stupid exhaust. Then driving towards Champions Way, one of those little black and white birds lands on the road and starts walking around, the way they do... And I'm thinking "oh yeah, little bird, it'll fly away" and a conversation I had with a friend about how those birds always fly away came to mind. "Any time now". "Go on you know you want to..." *DUD, DUD!* went the bird, first on my front spoiler, then on my windscreen, glanced in the rear mirror again, I don't think it survived :) :( :( Stupid bird... Anyways... Results! I'm REALLY happy! And oh gawd dirt is so much fun :) No classes, just outright places, 16 cars in total: 1) Craig Hornibrook - Commodore (334.65) 2) John Careless - TA22 Celica (335.68) 3) Fook Lee - AE35 Corolla (336.25) 4) Marcus Connelly - Mazda 626 (336.39) 5) Evan Wheeler - Datsun 1600 (339.81) WOO HOO! Paul (mumblezz) was also there, and while he didn't place a blistering speed, he definately showed us all how to do it in style, consistantly ;)

In my uber excitedness about getting this diff I thought I'd start a thread, sort of like a diary of the stuff I'm doing to the diff to get it setup for Hal... Photos of diff and brakes Here is a pic of the diff as a whole: And the brakes: First things first, will be stripping the diff to make sure it's the correct diff...

The setup I have (more or less identical):

Oh WOW, the handbrake setup that came with my new diff is actually meant to work... http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1660 Hmm!

Found this on the Datto1200 site (infinite source of fun): http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=2441 Can't post pic here unfortunately, the site doesn't quite allow linking of photos but you can see it with the link :) Thought it was rather neat, especially for diffs (gearboxes you can usually fill them from the shifter hole if it's a RWD...)

Yup, getting an early type. What I'm half worried about is that it isn't a T-series, but following all the theads on Toymods it sounds like all late TA22's-RA40's had T-series diffs so unless this one has been modified from some other car (after all the brakes are TRX ones...) it should be fine. Was speaking to a brake person today, he strongly recommended going for the R31 style disc brake rear end and to avoid the TRX ones, YAY, too late :) Apparently the TRX handbrake mechanism really doesn't work, YAY... Oh well... ;)

AFR could be better towards the top end. They don't think it is the fuel pump maxing out (although it could be), it could also be the fuel regulator but again unlikely, they think it is the actual map so the only way to correct that would be get an aftermarket computer (or one of those BuddyClub computers - but even those i don't think are reprogrammable, just a different map)... They're getting the Haltech plug&play ones soon, approx $1500, ouchy. Next on the list, rollcage and LSD. I've just picked up the RA23 diff housing + TRX brakes, don't know if it's the right one or not (T-series) but I hope it is. If it isn't I can return it. The TRX handbrake setup is strange, I think I'll need to custom make something. Will clean it up and start to strip it next week maybe and see if it's the right one...

Hal got dynoed today, pulled a measly 69hp on all 3 runs. I've been told that dyno is reasonably conservative and is one of the more realistic dynos around, and although I won lowest hp of the day (again), most of the other cars also pulled relatively low numbers 69hp @ 5740RPM (140km/h) 383Nm @ ~3300RPM (82km/h) Power is very steady (40-50hp) under 4500RPM, and then when it comes on cam it picks up and stays at closer to 69hp, dropping off sharply again at about 6900RPM. Torque starts high, and drops fairly sharply (down to 340Nm) until 4500RPM when it comes on cam and then picks up to 380Nm @ 5000RPM and then slowly drops off till about 6700RPM, and then drops sharply after that. AFR is good (~13:1) all the way till about 5500RPM when it leans out to about 12.5:1 and stays there... Next lowest powered car was a stock 260Z, pulling about 71hp. Highest powered was a 300ZX that pulled about 280hp (I think), next after that was a turbo 260 (280?)Z that pulled 276hp. My mate Evan's Walkinshaw pulled 191hp, missing a fair bit due to fouled plugs. As a comparison to another dyno (Redcliffe Dyno), Evan pulled 260hp at Redcliffe. Harry with his L18 Datsun 1200 (he'll also be doing Queensland Challenge) pulled 146hp at Redcliffe, pulled 110hp today.

$140 for a secondhand one? Geez you can almost buy a new one for that... No need to get a branded one, just something that works... So look for someone who's gone to buy some Cusco or whatever one and buy his old one :)

escorpse: I'm paying $140 for mine, that's adjustable and TIG welded. Or I can get one just welded up (1 piece) for $110. I figured it would cost me about $66 just to get the end plates lasetcut, and then there's the stuffing around to get it to go over or around my intake plenum... If it was a straightforward straight bar I'd do it myself probably, but it's a bit harder than that, and my welding kinda sucks. For yours would probably be cheaper to just buy a 2nd hand AE86 one. Your IC plumbing shouldn't go anywhere near the strut brace anyway...

Well yes, have a chat to your guy in NZ about a new or not new TRD one *soon*, once this other person gets back to me I'd like to make a decision... But yes, $600 for a 2nd hand vs $850 for a brand new, the decisions start getting tough :) Is that including shipping?

I don't, I think it's unnecessarily degrading, but that's probably just cause I'm a little too in touch with my feminine side :)

I think I've got a KE30 K engine mount somewhere in my stash of stuff...

Brace is a custom jobbie, yes - nothing on the market will fit the car because of the 4A engine. The mass produced ones don't go high or far back enough and hit the intake plenum. The LSD I'm still waiting on a final price so I still have my fingers crossed... And where on earth do you find a new one for $850+? Best I've been able to find is approx $1200-$1500 landed.

TRD 2 way. Apparently *maybe* < $600 now... Hell even $600 is less than what they used to be ($800ish)

Out of interest... What's in the sig? 1) Corolla 2) Girl fall in love with Corolla, Corolla is shiny and new 3) Girl driving (Corolla?) and going handbrake turn :) 4) Girl is confused about something to do with Corolla? 5) Girl is driving Corolla with sunroof???

Yay. Getting a front strut brace hopefully end of next week. Yay. Then maybe I won't keep worrying about that dodgy chassis rail... Might be picking up a diff this weekend too. RA23 diff (T series 6.7"), blown center but otherwise apparently good, with TRX disc brakes on the back, also has handbrake cables although not sure if I can reuse them or not. Along with tailshaft. Have also made enquiries about a slippy center, seems they've dropped in price (2nd hand), woo hoo! And also made enquiries about a 4.3:1 ratio too :) Tomorrow the car goes on the dyno to see what sort of figures it pulls, I'm aiming for 80hp atrw, hoping for around 90hp, would be surprised if I get more than 100hp... Wheeeeeeeeee... Hmm, now I just need to find the money to pay for it all ;)

Go the Fro :) Rice fittings? Man, you haven't used Speedflow fittings before have you? Once you've used them, everything else just seems so... inferior... Do you have 2 thermofans on that radiator (one front one back)? Looks like it from that angle...