demuire

Oh I SO CANNOT BELIEVE WE GOT LOST AND MISSED OUT ON THAT :) :) :) :) :( :( :( :( :( :(

Brake bleeding doesn't have to be a 2 person job. You can use a bottle and a piece of tube, if you don't have one of those supercheap things.

Well, then, why don't you buy an RX then? Then you can play with rotaries all day long...

Extreme Custom Engineering at Coopers Plains. They made my exhaust too.

Rob: I don't seem to have that problem much on the front, mostly in the back. When I was running the Simex SM6000 tyres even with 48psi in the rear I was still getting scrub marks almost to the rim on the back wheels (going around the Paperclip)!!!

Hmm, that is true, you might lose a bit of clearance between sidewall and strut when the strut is bent. I'm not sure if they do it on the car, I believe they do.

Can't quite remember my alignment settings, am getting another wheel alignment done soon (camber and castor currently a little out of whack because of strut brace), can post up for future reference I guess? Doug: Why don't you get Pedders to bend your struts? Worked wonders in Pinky and didn't cost anywhere near as much as adjustable strut tops (that I've pretty much maxed out as far as adjustment goes anyway)

Pulled off the drums last night and had a quick look, the shoes appear to be biting on about 75% of the pad area, so looks like a little more wearing in to go. Gave it all a good clean and put it all back together, working a tad better again. Have been looking at the tranny tunnel and thinking about where I could mount the hydrolic handbrake... Not very sure at the moment.

Rob: Interesting that you run lower pressure on the back for motorkhana work, wouldn't that make the back stickier (apart from the sidewall flex, but 36psi isn't too low or anything)? Might have to try that next time maybe... Out of interest running 36 front and 40 rear, my rears wear out fairly evenly, my fronts chew the outside edges up, even with 2 degrees of neg camber and a heap of castor...

Well done Doug, glad you like the tyres. I'd personally run about 36psi. On my Firestones I run 36psi on the front and 40psi on the back generally. For track days (like, sprint) I up them to 38psi and 42-44psi. Probably a tad high, but I prefer them a bit too hard then a bit too soft... That said, on my semi slicks I run 32psi front and 36psi back.

Erm... ooooooooooooooooookay...

So quick and cheap you recon? Hmm... Will think about it more...

I know someone with a Landrover, but no can't have his master cylinder :) And yes, do want to go hydrolic, just money and time! Am intending to build a separate lever for the hydrolic handbrake, keep the mechanical one as it is.

Yes, shoes are correct as per workshop manual. They were initially the wrong way around (Andrew put them in at first) but that was very quickly noticed by Wayne while we were putting it all together in Robs garage. Self-energising: Not 100% certain, have heard it mentioned a few times. Basically as the drum rotates it pulls the shoe tighter against it and amplifies the force, looking at the Corolla setup it looks like the forward shoe is self-energising and the rear is trailing. Or something, I'm not sure. And yes, have thought about how the mechanism works, it really isn't very complex, I'm all out of ideas. The hydrolic cylinder is brand new, should be good. Have tested the handbrake lever and cable, and yes it does pull at the shoes (or at least it makes the self adjusters click over when the drums aren't on) Cable is secured everywhere except for 1 point on 1 cable where the securing bolt snapped and I can't get it out, so it's cable tied in place. Shoes are new, drums are *apparently* alright and within wear limits. Something must be wrong somewhere in that equation, but I don't know where. All of the above was tested by ABS when I sent the car in too (and they even charged me for it), and all given the OK. I'll pop a drum off when I get some time and have another look.

"Gold cart"? I assume you mean "go kart"? Also, surely you can't register a go kart? Doesn't it need to be like roadworthy and stuff? Don't know about NSW, but in QLD you can still drive around under the SIV scheme, but only to and from workshops, to, from and during events, and for "testing" purposes within umm... 15k's (?) from your house. I can't afford 2 regos either, and given the constraints above I'm more than happy with that. I do generally at least 1 event a month (it appears that CAMS club meetings are also "events" because half the other members bring their SIV cars along for those, as well as some of the Harry's Diner people) and I don't generally take Hal to the shops for fear of it getting stolen plus it's not the most practical car to take shopping anyway... See, that's your problem Jamie, you're too young and stuff :) You need to succumb to the grandpa-ness and get a comfy boring practical drive car :)

Hal's going to be registered under that end of next year, it's 29 years old at the moment which makes it still too "new" to be registered as a Special Interest Vehicle...

Hehehe... yes of course there is... "Locked Solid Diff" :)

Not sure, will check when I pull the drums off. Away this weekend, might try for next weekend. Or maybe tomorrow night if I feel a bit better (not at 100% health at the moment :) )

*gawd driving down to Ballina in Hal would drive me nuts... must bring discman...* Will see how I go. The fact that I'm hopefully going to be ripping the diff back out not too long from now (although realistically maybe towards the end of the year...) and chucking that disc brake rear end in makes me lazy to try too hard to get this one working :)

Out of interest, is there *any* way I could have stuffed up the install of the drum brakes that they aren't self-energising anymore? The shoes are on the correct way around (leading and trailng), or at least according to Wayne Daniels they are :) The brake shop (ABS) also checked out the mechanisms and they said it all looked fine.

After I burn through the 6 spare tyres I have I'll be up for some remoulds too :)

Car doesn't pull to any side, the brakes don't apply hard enough to do that. Drums were inspected at the brake place, didn't need machining. Shoes, brake cylinders are brand new, been in the car for a few weeks. I would think the shoes would be worn in by now, been driving around with the handbrake on and off a fair bit. Using the footbrake the car stops fine, but that's probably because my front brakes are ridiculously large. Handbrake mechanism and cable *appear* to be fine. Feels similar to the one in Pinky, Paul (mumblezz) had a feel on Sunday at the khanacross, he recons it feels fine too (just doensn't seem to bite). Have loosened the handbrake lever, tightened it, same thing, still doesn't work properly. It will hold the car on most slopes, although on steeper ones I have to REALLY pull on the handbrake to get it to hold, but won't apply enough force to stop the car, or lock up the wheels, even on gravel (khanacross).

I don't know how he's getting that sort of price as well, would be interesting to see if it actually eventuates. I'd be guessing the fact that he's apparently buying 10 would have a lot to do with how much he's getting them for... At the current exchange rate NZ1300 = AUD1185, which is as far as I can tell a fairly good price (that's how much I know a few of my friends have gotten, with most import places advertising about AUD1500)

Out of interest, someone on Toymods is apparently doing a group-buy of 2-way TRD LSD's, he's advertising for $999 delivered... Go to thread

Hehe... I know what you mean :) Only problem is that chances are no one here will have an AE86 with it's original T-series diff, so giving you the model and/or frame numbers won't mean anything to you... I would hazard a guess that the people chasing an LSD here would either have gotten an import diff (out of an AE86 possibly) or is adapting one from another donor car such as an RA28 Celica (as I am doing). The 2 sizes for the AE86 axleshaft, the earlier one is the small axle, the later one is the big axle. Here in OZ, AFAIK we only have the small axle, so we will be wanting the earlier one of the two (unless someone's imported a big axle diff)