Felix

haha, aircon, it doesn't have a roof. it is a PRB clubman.

kevin ? from adelaide i think. he used to post sometimes on oldcorollas when he was setting it up. not sure what sort of HP figures. last i heard was something like 100 HP at 3 grand with tuning problems.

mmm, nicer on the eye than EFI

haha, you guys should rename this group rollakiddies.com :)

the best looking forced induction K engine i've seen is the twin SU'd drawthru supercharged 4k in a clubman. see if i can dig up some pics.

i don't get the need for these wing mirrors. they are seriously unsafe. guess it's your pride and joy.

fugly looking things

jamie, you are strange. :) 120y's suck, especially the coupes. they were like the ugliest cars ever made. strangely a kia rio? hatch looks surprisingly similar in the roof line, another fugly car. the only decent dattos are the 1000's, 1200's, 1600's, and early Z cars, all unfortunately rust buckets.

i like the rotary but little else. wheels don't suit it at all. the te27 from the all toyota day looks shitloads better. probably cost less too. i know who will lose out less financially when it comes to resale.

do you lose much clearance between the sidewall and strut when you get them bent? do they do it on the car? the A539s put the sidewall about the same distance away from the strut. you can't fit your little finger between the two. i do have a set of thin spacers. mmm, liking the tyres muchly. there is a badly rutted twisty bumpy road near here. i can now take every corner 10 kays faster without working it hard. on one particular bumpy corner i could do about 80 before the backend stepped out (about a foot), i get a little progressive tail slide now going 10 kays faster (the new urethane shackle bushes help). :) kind of weird, your brain says slow down, but the cars saying more please. definitely recommended.

my alignment specs: camber +0.6/+0.8 left/right caster -0.1/+1.3 :sad: i need some adjustable strut tops or something. a decent seat is next, then strut tops and urethane front bushes i guess.

thanks guys. Rob, will try that. probably just run the old tyres on the back at the motorkhanas then get something more disposable for the back.

got the 185/60x13 A539s on the car this morning. clearance wasn't an issue. :) mmm.....they look good. i've got a tyre fat. :) initial impressions are better than the old tyres even with stickers on, way less sidewall flex. can't wait until they are properly broken in. the ride actually feels softer. bob jane recommended 32 psi front and rear. pretty conservative i think. they have max 44psi marked on sidewalls. probably experiment a bit after they are broken in. any recommendations? might have to go for a long twisty drive this weekend.

in the words of nelson "ha ha!" :) LOL!

:)

i have a set of A539s on order through my friendly local bob jane dealer. 185/60s for $120 each + alignment. i expressed my clearance concerns and they've agreed to mount one up and check clearance before buying. having an extra set of rims helps. it's going to handle sweet :)

fook, those EX-601s don't look to bad. i will just run the old tyres as scrubbers on the back for motorkhanas. with something decent up front it should help to flick it around the flags. actually, just bribed the missus, now i can up the budget on my tyres :) going to have a ring round my area, see what i can find. tyres i'd like: a. Falken ZE512s 185/60 175/60 b. yokie a539 185/60 175/60 c. pirelli p6000 185/60 any others of similar performance? anyone have ideas of which is best handling/wearwise. think a 175/60 would be better on my 5.5" rims if i can get them.

thanks guys. the more i think about it the more i want 185/60's. they may not be such a problem with strut clearance with the shorter sidewall. hopefully not as bulgy in the sidewall as my current tyres. sure i can make them fit. wonder what the cheaper nankang and sumitomo 185/60s are like, maybe kumhos? anything has to be better than my bob jane high performance all rounders, which are aren't to healthy, especially on the back. they actually handle rather well in the dry. they can get scary in the wet.

i'll give you 400 bucks :)

i'm up for a new set of tyres for my ke15 but not sure which way to go. originally they run 12 x 4" rims with 155/80? x 12's (SL models had 4.5" rims) currently running 13 x 5.5" mazda 626 RWD steel rims with taller 175/70R13 tyres. i need 13's to clear the ke30 disc's on the front. with the current wheel/tyre combo there is not much clearance between the tyre and strut. i can't fit my pinky between the two. they fit just inside the guard at the front looking down. at the back i still get some scrubbing when loaded up on the guard lip, which has been rolled out a bit. would love to go something shorter sidewalled. ideally 185/60r13s but think they would scrub even more and foul the strut :sad: could always fit spacers and work the guards more, although it's not something i really want to do. maybe 175/60r13s? tyres this size are like $120 ea and hard to find. possibly 165/65r13s? guess they would have a fairly stiff sidewall, especially mounted on a 5.5" rim. have a similar diameter to the 175/60s and be close in dia to the original 12s. the best quality tyres in this size would be a lot cheaper than 60's. seeing as a ke15 is a touch over 700 kg's i don't think tyre width is overly important. with the current engine traction can be a problem in the wet, especially with the 4.5. slightly skinnier tyres would help. also i have a set of rear lowering blocks needing a new home. maybe the 165/65r13s? arghh! what to do? anyone have tyre brand/model recommendations for 13" tyres in above mentioned sizes? or in similar sizes? guess i'm looking for the best allround performance orientated compromise, without spending a fortune. it is a daily driver. need to be good in the wet. $400 tyres and alignment is the budget.

Fook i'm not sure once you get out of the corolla models. have a feeling you may be needing to modify your tailshaft. a shortened tailshaft from whatever your diff came out would prolly be easiest. i'd go to a decent parts place somewhere and look at their uni joint catalog. think the larger jap diffs had larger unis. not totally sure. you would need to check. the jap ke30 unis are the same size as ke10. think it wouldn't be such a bad idea to upgrade to some thing larger.

just make sure you clean the housing out good. i want an LSD :sad:

most the mounts i've seen have had the heat shield, or evidence there once was one ie, a few holes. some were bolted, some riveted. pain in the ass things, the heat shields. i've had a couple develop cracks on the heat shield and then start to vibrate and give out real bad buzzing sounds. don't run them any more. wouldn't fit with the ford mount anyway. heat isn't the real problem, though it probably doesn't help long term. alex, it is a cylindrical mount with a stud poking out each flat end. it is about the same thickness as the rubber bit on your existing mount (although there is another thinner ford item). can't remember exact fitment. pretty sure it was either 2L escort or cortina. all i did was get an old broken original manifold side mount. i cut and scraped the remains of the old rubber off the two plates. i then drilled two holes in the two plates pretty much in the center of where the old rubber was, although i slightly offset them so as to lower that side of the engine 10 mm. then i bolted the 3 bits together. the nut on the engine side was a pain to do up. just had to swap the new (3 piece) mount in place of the broken one in the car. this mount has outlasted all previous ones, no signs of cracking. i still get too much movement at times under extreme usage. maybe the urethane option would have been better. the radiator i am running now has a straight lower outlet, which puts the hose nearer the alternator fan. i have chunked 2 lower radiator hoses on the alt fan since i put the 4.5 in :sad: hopefully the urethane rear suspension bushes and a new gearbox mount will stabilise things more. also will swap over becs radiator with curved lower outlet for more clearance.