Felix

haha, i was only taking the piss in relation to using datsun metal (which obviously has a lot more rust particles built it), in a toyota. this was in agreeance to jamies statement. ben you take yourself way to seriously for a 19 year old. think you spend to much time online. funny how the web can turn someone into an instant expert on a subject. lighten up dude.

yea, mismatched metals hasten the onset of corrosion.

i'd like to go, but bec's car is playing up a bit atm. don't really want to risk breaking mine. we need at least one reliable car. bah! there'll be more motorkhanas.

if fitting ta22 springs (not totally sure what ben means), you would reduce the amount of possible camber you could get out of the front end due to the larger diameter springs. also the kingpin inclination will be more wrong with later struts, giving you more positive camber. i will have a set of lowered heavier ke20/25 coils for sale soon. they were in becs '16 when we bought it. they make it sit too high as the spring platforms are a lot closer together on the ke1x cars. will be setting hers up the same as mine, with cut '20 coils and a whiteline front bar shortly. wind in as much caster as possible, that will make the steering a bit heavier. i would have a chat with peter, his '20 has gone through a fair bit of modification in the suspension department. he has done everything himself so he knows what bits work and what doesn't.

when i've had rocker covers let go (twice now), it has been from the nuts loosening right off over time. the no3 keeps it sealed until you add like extended 8 grand doing a burnout or motorkhana test. the pressure/oil buldup in the head popped the seal and lifted the back of the rocker cover. it is only because of lack of attention to detail, ie. laziness not checking the rocker cover nuts in my case on a regular basis. not a problem with the sealant.

i don't use no3 on the exhaust part of the gasket, only around the inlet ports. i had a lot of problems initially getting my seccond hand extractors to seal (bit warped like me). i now use studs and two extractor gaskets. bit of a pain as to remove the extractors i have to drop an engine mount and jack up the engine a bit. not much room in a ke15 engine bay. unfortunately i don't think you can buy the asbestos type extractor gaskets any more, only metal ones which i haven't used as yet. :sad:

i've use'd pretty much nothing but permatex no3 for over 10 years. i've never had anyone ever do work on my cars. just machining, roadworthies and wheel alignments. never had problems with leaks where i have used no3. i use it on extractor gaskets, i can change induction setups without pulling the extractors. tappet covers, sump gaskets, even on head gaskets in places. never had a problem with leakage on the dizzy side of the head. perfect for plug tube o-rings, they last for years, just a quick smear when you replace the plugs. thermostat housings, water pumps, even on radiator hoses with the temp probe for a davies craig thermo fan. even used it recycling carb gaskets, it is impervious to fuel.have used it on numerous cars i've owned including other peoples. never had a problem. worst bit about it is that it is messy shit and hard to get off you hands. thinners does the job.

should just get a new washer (like $2) and at least use thread seal tape on your sump plug. i'm a big believer in permatex no3. non hardening aviation goo on almost everything. sump gaskets are easily made out of an old cereal packet (sorry alex), takes less than 10 minutes. used with the permatex no3 it will never leak, plus the gasket will be reusable again later if you are careful pulling it apart.

no, you are just being realistic, when considering bang for buck. like a 4afe vs 4age. some of the 4afes put out more power (and torque) than the earlier rwd 4ages. some young dude wouldn't have anything but the 4age. i've seen a few 4afes on the web turboed putting out over 300 hp, so there really can't be too much wrong with them. with the "fe" versions there would be nothing stopping you fitting a set of warmer cams and giving the head a cleanup. the difference between them and a "ge" version would be minimal then.

i wouldn't use that as a valid comparison. i think you will find that the 3k's were measured with no accessories, and that 4ks were choked with more pollution shit. the method of testing changed between when the 2 engines came out. as for the sr20 comparo, no idea. not my thing.

yea, all the ones i have broken have pretty much just stripped half the teeth off the pinion gear. that was in my younger more abusive days in my old ke30, with not much more than a std 4k. i broke like 5 diffs and the same number of ke30 4 speeds in that car. funny how i have more power then ever in my ke15, but have never broken a diff or gearbox. i have worn one diff out, but it was mainly carrier bearings dieing. i'd say that ute musta had some serious HP. maybe it sheared off a few teeth and they jammed between the pinion and ring gear.

oily nosed wombat

gets bloody cold out at willowbank sometimes. shouldn't be so bad now they don't run it in June like they used to. sitting in those stands on a 0 degree night isn't overly fun.

yea, and half a banjo center sitting on the ground. ripped it to pieces. A for effort.

the best thing i've ever seen for exhaust glow was the boetcher mazda rx7 super sedan years ago at the speedway. it ran a blown 13b at the time. by the end of a race the exhaust would be glowing red hot at the back of the car, and you could see the extractors glowing whitehot through the front wheel arch. it was awesome, used to kick the ass of all the v8 guys.

he's talking about the judge.....boom!

nah, think of the worst k box, and multply it by 5. some datto boxes are real real bad. your gearbox sounds like the ke70 k50 one in becs ke16. it is real bad, has lots of shifter play and crunches bad changing back to 3rd if you are not real careful. it also makes this weird squeeky chirpy noise at slow speeds. regarding the L series in a ke70. sorta be almost identical to a datsun stanza then. very similar looking to a ke70.

jamie, one thing about the datsun engines, is that they are far more commonplace and there are a lot more go faster bits floating around. i think the datsun boxes are pretty strong, some just have weird shift patterns, and they seem to have sloppy shifts.

yep just did a search and it appears you can use a "dwell meter" to measure injector pulse width. google it.

i'll probably go out there. help my mate with the "DogBalls Racing" RX3 coupe. :P

i've seen an animal 1200 coupe with an L20 at the mt cotton hill climbs. it didn't seem to be at a disadvantage. it hauled, and went around corners real well. i think moving the battery to the boot, and a diff upgrade will certainly help balance the car. also suspension setup has a big influence on how well the car handles. not to mention driver ability. an L20 is a big lump. probably much the same sizewise and weight as a 2/3T. they would both have similar potential. L20s are a non xflow engine, the manifolds on the same side as on a K engine.

i'm no expert on efi, but i'm pretty sure you can use a dwell meter (dwell/tachometer) to see the injectors cycling.

avgas in an efi car??? the lead in avgas would f@$k the O2 sensors in no time.

you could probably run 12's with a well ported 13b NA'd (talking J port, monster port, peripheral port). it would be one angry noisy engine and chew heaps of juice (as much as a worked v8). it would probably have more look at me factor than any other engine you could think of. a 12a turbo would have more potential, be way quieter, more reliable, more drivable and use less juice. 6 port 13bs put out 160hp std.

toyota V8