Felix

the one for mr revhead cracked me up ;)

it's not to bad jamie, guess the engine is pretty lightly loaded so the exhaust is actually quieter, then when i had the 4.22 and the larger diameter 175/70s. since i've changed to the 185/60s i could probably go to a 4.3 now. using your very handy gearing chart, 4000 rpm equates to 66 MPH (105 km/h) in 5th.

go the JB weld.

i don't mind my 4.5:1, my engine loves cruising at 3800-4000 in 5th. 1st is a bit short. must say fuel economy has dropped off a bit. the long hills on the way to gatton don't make a difference. makes v6 commodores look stupid from a set of lights ;) geez 5.1:1 now thats bloody low geared. must do like 30 kays in 1st. would have serious grunt. do they run a close ratio gearset with a taller 1st? you could go broke on that NZ site real quick.

ever heard of offset grinding cranks? you could get a 4k crank reground 40 thou under, offset 20 thou. would give you an extra 1 mm stroke. ie, your 73 mm stroke 4k crank would become a 74mm stroker crank. really not worth it. seeing as ke70s are so porky, if i was building a k engine for a ke70, i would start with a 5k. torque is what shifts you off the line quick. better still toss the k series and go 4ag. you will be a lot happier in the long run. even 4afe, i don't understand why more people don't use them. they are worth f@$k all and are way more commonplace than 4ags. they have a lot more torque. the one in peters ae82 really pulls hard, has more torque than any equivalent 4ag i've been in. not so much at the topend, but bang for buck there is no comparison. you can always add porting and reground cams for topend later. would be different.

ok, i'd be expecting a rather low CR. probably perfect for forced induction. so you are just running standard sized valves. 3k bigport heads run the same valve size as on any other 3k/4k/5k. the only engines to run different sized valves were the original k and k-b heads which were smaller. normally the 5k hydraulic lifters weigh about 4 times what k/3k/4k solids do. brings on valvefloat quicker as the springs have a hard time controlling the extra weight of the lifters. i'd say the chev solids would have to weigh less than half of the 5k hyds. they'd be a bit heavier than the k/3k/4k solids due to the larger diameter. a big improvement though. wonder if you could sleeve down the lifter bores in a 5k block to use the earlier smaller diameter k/3k/4k solids? might have to look into that. you can shim valve springs. normally good for at least an extra 500 rpm. just make sure to avoid coil bind or you will rip out the rocker pedestal studs/bolts and/or bend pushrods..

spewing

thanks xany. would certainly liven up the performance in the top end with the proper solids. rereading your engine build post, you are running dished pistons? you must have had to grind alot of metal off the face of your bigport head to get a decent compression ratio out of it. do you know the final CR? your oversized valves, what were they from. how much did they cost to get cut down, regrooved and the seats opened up? i have looked through many valve catalogs and there is nothing i've found yet that is a direct drop in. alex unfortunately up here they expect you to run boosted brakes with an upgrade. supposedly need to run the equivalent setup from what the chosen engine you are going to run came with. boosted brakes are just wrong on a ke1x. becs are way to touchy with subaru m/cyl booster and ke20 discs. legal though. i prefer my ke30 discs with standard m/cyl. pull up real good and go twice as far before they start to fade. much safer, with a much more progressive pedal feel.

i thought it was A12 pushrods

so what pistons and compression ratio? are the pistons dished? a 3k bigport head combustion chamber is normally around twice the volume of a dished 4/5k head. did you use holden/chev solid lifters or lock the existing hydraulic ones? i'm more building for maximum grunt, and the widest powerband possible, staying within the constraints of the hydraulic lifters. my 4k goes to 8 grand. the 5k will only need 7 grand. the 5k was previously in becs ke16 before we got it. it used to smoke 3rd gear when it had a 4.4 and 12 inch tyres. it will have even more go after i'm finished with it. fook normally you can only go to a 4k legally in a ke1x. doesn't matter if you bolt in a smaller engine once mod plated for a 5k. anyone got any standard bore 5k pistons laying around? i have another 5k turbo bottom end i need a spare piston for. one is cracked.

ben, a 5k has the same stroke as a 4k. both 73mm. a 5k crank actually has 4k cast on it. 4k's have a 75mm bore. 5k's have a 80.5mm bore, and reinforced block. i think the 5k flywheels are heavier to help dampen the extra mass of heavier pistons and beefier conrods. i have a 5k on the engine stand out back i am giving a freshen up. not sure what to do with it yet, whether to put it in becs ke16, or replace my 4k in my ke15. becs car is mod plated for a 5k so is legal. maybe i should put it in mine and get it plated?? it is going to get a 4k-e head which have larger ports to start with.. it has a high lift 3k-b spec grind cam, so will have mega grunt. playing with dyno 2003 it should have more torque at 2 grand than my current 4k has at 5500, and the same peak HP but at 6500 rather than 7500. should really go in a lightweight ke1x shell. xany, what are the specs of your engine?

that focus is slightly fnackered. gee they were lucky to walk away from that.

jigsaws are good to with a fine blade, if you have clearance behind. great for tranny tunnels, no sparks to f@$k all your glass.

rotors schmotors. hehe, had a very confused series 1/2/3? rx7 driver in front of me on the way out to fernvale today. on the long overtaking lane on the way up the hill just after the brisbane valley highway turnoff this guy was in front and floored it up the hill, with me right behind. would have got up to 150 km going up the hill past several new commodores and other cars. he gained a little not much, which isn't to bad considering i had my missus, 3 kids and gear on board, he was by himself. once past the overtaking lane the idiot slowed down and would repeatedly floor it, trying to bait me, but i wasn't interested considering my cargo. we caught more cars before the second overtaking lane and i was right on him when he pulled out to pass, he couldn't pull any more than a few meters from 100 - 160 which was pretty cool. once past the overtaking lanes i just cruised it and let him go. he caught traffic. as we came into fernvale he pulled over and jumped in behind me, trying to work out what my car was. pulled off at the markets. was pretty funny, considering my car felt off and was running a bit hot. when i got home i put the timing light on mine, 15 degs advance. the dizzy holdown bolt was a bit loose. reset it to 10 degs, and it goes so much better. the rx7 dude would be in trouble now if i caught up to him again. amazing what justa little old ke15 with a 4k can do. :)

exactly. the moral of the story is to try to do as much as possible yourself.

with a workshop doing all the work, what do you really expect? jamie, how much extra would you have paid for someone to do the porting and assembly + installation into your ke25?

seriously something like that would only be a drag engine. no way you could run one in a street car, well you could but you would be rebuilding the thing like every 6 months. with a full seal kit around $2000 or more it would be an expensive exercise. more a dreamers thing. the amount of port overlap with a bridgeport isn't really the best for forced induction. it would be like running a set of 3/4 race cams in a normal engine and then adding a turbo. a turbo PP would be like the equivalent of taking a formula atlantic 4ag, and throwing a turbo straight on. ok, if you are going to rebuild every few passes, but not for a street engine. a mate of mine has just rebuilt the 13b in his rx3 coupe. it used to run mid 13s in bridgeport guise, now after a rebuild it has been taken out to monster port specs, and is expected to run a mid 12. it cost him $2500 to rebuild, he is a mechanic so gets his parts on the cheap too.

bridgeported turbo... good one. shows how little you know about rotaries.

VHT racing starlet. pity they didn't make the 4k version.

bah, i know i can do alot better. felt so bad on sunday, which doesn't help. was kinda funny on one of the tests, i did a good run only to park it in the starting bay DOH! jamie, i'm not really trying to score on street cred, just forgot to wash the numbers off before i dropped the kids off to school. fooks car looked so sweet out there. it is good to see him in something with power to match the handling.

the best rally game i've ever played for PC is Rally Trophy. it is based on 60's and 70's cars, and is the hardest most lifelike rally sim out there. no 4wd's, just either fwd or rwd's. you can download extra cars, current favourite is a 3T powered starlet, and even edit your own. robs ke25 would make a good model.

funny this morning waiting at a set of lights and a copper pulls up beside me. my thing burbling away at idle, and i've still got my numbers on the windows from the motorkhana yesterday. i must say i felt a bit paranoid, it was a long 60 seconds. they didn't even look at me. haha.

alex, sounds like you are in desperate need of some self :)

was rather ironic that peter was saying to me earlier in the day, that he expected to see some holes in my bonnet from all the valve bounce. then his son ryan goes and does in a bigend in their 5k. :sad: i bought their spare 5k last weekend. you'll have to go 4ag now pete. i'm interested in the twin SU's :)

no no, i was more referring to the massive blind spots you would have with the mirrors way up front. sideswipe....oops didn't see you.