Felix

bet it is bens manifold side mount, which is broken. under load the dizzy side gets compressed and the manifold side lifts and stretches the mount.

i think ke10, 20, and 30 are all slightly different from memory, the ke10 mounts being the lowest. actually found about 10 engine mounts today doing a bit of a tidy. a bit dark under the house to look at them properly. i'll drag them out and get a pic later. yea, i've broken a few manifold side mounts before changing to the ford item, mounted between the metal plates from the old orig mount. the ford mount is a little stiffer. much cheaper, think mine cost $30 when i got it. urethane mounts were available at around $60 in the same style. main reason i used the ford mount was to lower the manifold side for collector to floor pan clearance with 4 into 1's on a taller 4k block. not much room in a ke15. my mount is about 10 mm lower than a standard ke10 mount. i've been thinking about adding an extra engine steady mount. something like a FWD mount from the head to the passenger side strut top??? i sometimes get a lot of axle tramp into second gear. have a set of new superpro urethane bushes for the rear suspension to go in which should help. i believe to much uni-lash, diff-lash, and rear suspension bush sloppiness is a major contributor to broken engine mounts and gearbox mounts. not to mention driving style. :)

hey guys, just wondering on what you guys think the term "old school" means?? it is a way overused abused term i think. then again i'm in my early 30's so probably a bit older than most of you guys, and have a totally different take on the matter. for me it is a 60's/70's car that is modified in keeping with it's era. ie, no efi, 17's or monster tachos, or big chrome mufflers. that stuff is retro. it needs, cams, carbs, steel rims, or mags from the same era the car was produced.

my 4k is still going strong after 3 years of abuse since i acquired it. was jap import with unknown kays on the clock. the engine was in good nick, i pulled the head and sump off, checked and retorqued the bearings. add some porting, skimming, cam and a few reliability adding mods. it is a 20 year old engine, bottom end never rebuilt. still has the original rod bolts. it hasn't had an easy life. has had plenty of work up around valve bounce (8 grand, still standard springs). have had quite a few people ask me if i've ever heard of a rev limiter at the motorkhanas ;) unless you are planning on going over 8 grand i really don't think they are needed. a new set of orig bolts would be fine, cost dependent on toyota. if you plan on going over 8 grand then yes, use them. then you really need to be lightening and balancing things, and start thinking about rod preparation. etc. $$$$$$ personally i think 2 grand plus spent on a 4k is better off spent on a 4ag conversion, unless you are building for a motorsport class. sorry jamie :) it is not the size of the rod bolts that is most important. it is the tensile strength that matters, the grade of the rod bolt. a 4k bottom end has more bearing journal surface area than an early 4ag.

irokin, why not just go 2/3T? use 3T bottom end with early 2T head. buy a cheap T18 for engine and box. thinking it would be a good cheap conversion for my auto tunnel KE10. should have a bit more performance potential than a similarly built 4k. from what i've been told (puerto rican source) the pushrod heads can take cams with more lift than what the DOHC heads can. they both have 8 valves, so its not like the 2tg heads really breath much better. sure the DOHC heads have a higher RPM limit in stock form, but if you were to invest in some HD valve springs for a pushrod T, there probably wouldn't be much between them.

fook, i read through the entry form and supp regs, but i can't see anything about needing additional insurance??? the only thing about insurance i saw was: "Personal Accident Insurance is included in the entry fee and the organisers reserve the right to refuse any entry." we didn't need any additional insurance for the previous motorkhanas. am i missing something??

wade 169? - 41/70 75/36 291 degs adv duration

no, the ke10 series bolt pattern is different to all later cars. :sad: otherwise i would have upgraded long ago.

:) what's aircon??? ahh, that's what the quarter glass windows are for right? :) i just put a heater in becs '68 ke16. never had one standard, optional extra. it has central locking though. :D someone else installed that b4 we got the car. degassing and regassing would be the biggest hassles i think. pretty sure some older aircon systems need to be modified to be made compatible with modern aircon gas. environmental issues. not sure if this would affect you at all teddy?

get someone else to help lift the box from under other side of the car. makes it a hell of a lot easier than trying to balance it on a jack, or resting it on your chest. i hope it is a known good box you are putting in this time.

i might do the same with both Becs' and my cars. far from show quality, but interesting/rare daily drivers.

Hi Rob.... it is I, Doug. aka ke1x. nah, i've got kids, i'm the one rapidly going senile. :P i just love wasting newer cars with more spent on their wheels and tyres (or stereos), than i've spent in total on mods. nothing like the wail of pushrod assisted valve bounce. i would consider a 16 valve motor, but couldn't be bothered stuffing an oversized 4ag into the tiny confines of a ke15. make it nose heavy, overcomplicated and a bitch to work on. not to mention take away from the cars originality. i don't know, maybe later???? i do have an auto tunnel ke10 doing nothing, hmm.....

Name: Doug Nick Name: Doug, Dad, Dude decided it was time for a change. my online name was ke1x, now i've changed it to Felix. Felix is the name of my ke15 sprinter. if you see it you'll know how it got it's name.

i feel exactly the same way Rob.