Felix

you need a vacuum boosted hydraulic handbrake. you wouldn't have to jerk as much then datgirl....

maybe he should call it SMURF :dance:

think you may find that the ra65 center hole is to big. may need to change struts. ke70 218mm daimeter, 12.7mm thick. just had a quick look at the DBA disc catalog (www.dba.com.au), and it seems ke70 panel van (228 mm dai 12.7 thick) and ae71 panel van/ae86 (234 dia, 12.5 thick) discs should bolt up, all have same center hole. no idea of backing plates. also consider better pads, and maybe ducting.

what letters are on your numberplate? that's what helped influence the naming of my car, plus it's character.

that's where all the cheese comes from. LOL! i'm not into that idol crap myself. though if it makes you feel better fook, bec loves that chick to.

they are just mad. would have to be the most dangerous spectator sport i've ever seen. the best one was the one that lost the back tyre. 3 footed double spin and recover. he gets the most style points for sure. the rest are just crazy. pure stupidity.

maybe you need to adjust your choke teddy??? have a look in your workshop manual, there is probably a section on setting the choke up properly.

also you have the hotspot on the bottom of the inlet manifold where it bolts to the exhaust manifold. this aids atomization. going to extractors makes the inlet manifold run cooler, making for longer warmups and more power.

i'd be interested. although personally i think it is a better drive going the opposite way, ie. climbing glorious and descending nebo. if you wanted to go that way i know a good way. head out towards ipswich, take toowoomba highway, jump off near blacksoil and take pine mountain road, lotsa fun. go through fernvale, turn off before wivenhoe, go up between splityard creek dam and wivenhoe, turn off to cedar flats, climb glorious, go part way down nebo. stop somewhere for lunch. just a suggestion.

it only taps into the rear brake circuit. it is only something you do if you are serious about motorsport. if you read Fooks earlier posts you will see that he intends also keeping a normal mechanical handbrake.

i just dislike painting of chrome bumpers and accessories. tacky.

that's cool. although i think yours looks better, especially if you developed it to the same standard.

reverse has no synchros :sad:

good work. :dance:

i love that guys cars. would love a shovel nose coupe. love the racing pic. the carinas are pretty cool. pity we didn't get them over here.

limiting your rear suspension travel with pump up shocks is a very poor bandaid. roll your guards, and put a decent set of heavy duty shocks in the back. urethane shackle bushes help a lot i found (only about $35) with scrubbing during cornering. not overly keen on running stiffer springs on the back as you get a jarring ride, and also it makes it even harder to put power down on bumpy corners. not to mention the car won't squat as much on hard takeoffs so will be slower in street drags. i have a good bit of pipe here if you wanted to try rolling your guards out.

nah, don't do that (fitting 165's), not the way to make your car handle. clearance your guards and put some real good tyres on it. i found i have way way less scrubbing since i made the change from 175/70x13's to 185/60x13's. i was always scrubbing out over big bumps and when cornering hardish and hitting a bump mid corner with my kids in the back seat. since the tyre change i have only scuffed a couple of times, even with way higher cornering loads. total opposite to what i originally expected.

ok, get it now. looks a lot better than the old '30 rims. don't think you will have much luck widening one piece mags. you will have to find a wider set and sell the one's you've got. you need to roll your guards. easiest way is to get some really thick walled galv pipe, wedge it between the guard and tyre and drive the car back and forth slowly with a couple of mates sitting on the boot.

ok, i'll elaborate. for the power level the original poster was talking, i would keep the exhaust system under 2 inches for a 4k. any bigger and you will just lose low end torque. i would recommend a 1 7/8" system for best all round performance for a high output street engine. find a place that does good work, one that will let you watch. i don't think mandrel bends are really necessary (only a 4k), so long as they use thick wall tubing and know how to use a press bender properly. get them to put a 3 bolt flange on the extractors, you will be a lot happier when it comes to an engine change.

also decent extractors and sports exhaust system.

thats right, thats why i told him to look into getting some '30 ball joints pressed into his '20 arms. last time i looked (about 5 years ago when i was in the spare parts trade) they looked physically identical (around the base, think i even measured them) except for the smaller taper and thread on the '20 items.

as i've said previously, ditch the 13x4.5 ke30 rims and get a set of 14x5.5 ra60/tarago steel rims. cost $10 each from the wreckers. they have more outward offset.. performance tyres start cheaper in 14" sizes, and there is more variety.

i have a feeling they might just press in.

could you put ke30 ball joints in your ke20 arms?

yes fook the no3 has a brush applicator in the lid.