Felix

the locker is the poor mans LSD. it stops you frying the inside rear tyre when you are working the car hard, but has a lot of negatives for a daily driver. it makes both rear tyres rotate at the same speed the whole time, so whenever you turn one or both tyres will break traction, or the car will want to push and understeer. rear tyre wear is about 3 times faster than a normal open diff. i want one for my ke10 as it will only be used for motorsport purposes, and will be getting club rego. it is ideal in this respect as the car will want to slide far more easily and predictably once provoked into oversteer. the quickest cars at the motorkhanas generally are running lockers (like Rob), and have hydraulic handbrakes. also lockers are awesome for drive out of corners and straight line acceleration.

ok, haven't run a locker as yet. i have plans to put one in the ke10 after rego. i'm sure i will experience it sooner or later. are you any good at welding diffs Rob?

all the pull type ones have rollers you have to worry about, for where the cable changes direction.

it'll run on three. at first more under load, but as the exhaust valve gets worse all the time. a compression test will give you a good idea if anything like that is wrong. do it both dry and wet. if the reading is down on one cylinder dry, and then doing it wet makes no difference, suspect a leaky valve or maybe head gasket..... if the reading comes up wet, then it is rings. a leakdown test at a mechanics is even more informative if you want to go that far. also you could try a balance test, where you run the car at idle, removing a single plug at a time and record the RPM drop for each cylinder. if one cylinder drops less than the others it is not doing its fair share and it is time to look further.

i was pretty mad when i was younger :P i haven't broken anything in my ke15, which has a lot more power than the old '30. i don't dump it in first or anything stupid these days, although i have done many flat changes into second with no issues. think a lighter car helps. have never broken an axle in a corolla. do they snap off the spline in the diff, and make it hard to get the spline out like on old holders? driving on dirt would put a lot more load on the drivetrain, especially through ruts and on corrugated roads i would think. the load wouldn't be constant like on the bitumen, with the surface changing all the time.

i've had coils go slow and die in the upper RPM range. the old oil filled bosch GT40s were bad for this. had 2 of them die. the transistor ones are good. also check the voltage at the coil. i had a dead alternator for a while and found when the battery voltage got low the car would start misfiring at revs. it is one of those things that is hard to diagnose over the web. i would check valve clearances, compression (hasn't got a burnt valve?), spark voltage at the leads if you have a spark testor. have you changed the dizzy cap and rotor button when you changed the coil? carbon tracking can occasionally be a problem, moreso with the earlier smaller diameter cap and button on the ND dizzies. is the carb standard? has it been rejetted or anything? i have run into lean misfire and also rich misfire before.

coil?

really depends on how hard they are treated. i broke 4 diffs and 4 k40s behind a near standard import 4k in my old ke30. that car got majorly abused. rev and dumps, and axle tramp are killers.

no idea how far it would push the diff off center in a ke70. i do know sometimes lowering can cause a problem on gemini's and they can rub a tyre on one side when lowered a lot. they don't have real big guards to fit in wide rubber though. i agree, a set of poly bushes in the stock panhard rod would probably be all you need, unless the car was massively lowered. as you said the change could go toward better quality dampers. cool, fook was telling me it goes real well on the phone this arv. are you going out to the next one in 2 weeks? would like to see how well it goes. i hear it has a lot more grunt than the redwarf :P guess it would have a lot to do with how bub goes.

those panhard rods look like they only correct the geometry when the car is lowered. ie. stop the diff getting pushed off to one side. probably no use unless the car is lowered. doesn't look like any roll center adjustment.

think i'll skip tomorrows motorkhana. i'll go to the next motorkhana in a fortnights time. stay home, go to the markets in the morning and play with my new toy. got my new ke10 home today. was a very good score. looks quite nice with a much needed wash. see if i can get it running tomorrow. hasn't been started for over 2 years.

just chuck it in the boot :P

nah i pulled that particular weber 32ADFA off of a fiat 131 1600s at the wreckers. 1975-81 i think. ben, the carby you are thinking of from the 60's fiat 1500 sypder is a weber 28/36 DCD. the DCDs also came on ford mk1 1500 gt cortinas. sweet carbs, have used one on various engines. i'd sorta steer clear of the 32/36 DGVs from the 2L escort cortinas. they can be made to work, but will always be soggier in the low range than a slight smaller weber. if you can find a 32/32 DGV go for it, currently have one on my warm 4k and it runs really sweet. they have smaller venturis in the carb and this makes them far more responsive on the primary throat than a normal 32/36.

not very long, would probably ping and detonate itself to death on pump fuel, and overheat like mad. the only way it could be of use is maybe with methanol on a drag engine, like ben said. the CR would probably still be too high. you really don't want any more than 10.5:1 with pump fuel, otherwise you may have problems with pinging and overheating. CR and cam selection work together. the higher the overlap the higher the CR needed to get the most from the cam. no. i'd only use one on a dished piston 4k, or on a dished piston 5k. otherwise you end up with way to much compression. teddy, i would recommend you read the book "tuning new generation engines for power and economy" by A. Graham Bell, or one of his 4 stroke tuning books. also try to read books by David Vizard, he is a tuning wizard. these guys are definitely the two best authors of engine tuning books i have ever read. very educational!!!

- Does any 1 know the following compression figgures... (or close too) - 4k Block + 3k Head ~10.0:1 - 4k Block + 3k Biport Head ~10.0:1 - 5k Block + 3k Head ~7.5:1 - 5k Block + 3k Bigport Head ~7.5:1 - 5k Block + 4k Head ~8.5:1 - 5k Block + 4ke Head ~10.0:1 above is approx. you could fine tune it by working it all out mathematically from the original compression ratios, to work out the heads original combustion chamber volumes. check back through yahoo oldcorollas archives for more definite numbers. you don't want to shave a head to much, it weakens the deck face and makes it way more prone to warpage if it overheats. say 60thou max. costs about $50 to deck a head. you should always use a burette or syringe to check your combustion chamber volumes, and work out your compression ratio. you could get the valves reangled as you say, expect to pay for it. a machinist will do anything you ask, so long as you have the $$. if you put a 3k crank in a 4k you will sit the piston 3.5mm down the block at TDC (top dead center). easy way to decompress an engine, not ideal though. it will only be a 1200 cc 4k after. think it gave something like 7.0:1 when i did the calcs ages ago. if you put longer rods in a 4k/5k you will need pistons with a different pin height so they don't poke out of the top of the block at TDC. lotsa $$ if you start going to these sorts of lengths. consider engine conversion as better value for money. alternatively you could put a 4k crank in a 3k like redwarf (gives 1290 cc+ depending on bore size). this is something you would only do to comply with motorsport class regulations, where you need to run the original block. the above applys in that you need pistons with a different pin height.l if you put a 3k or 4k head on a 5k you will lose power (through lower compression, ideal for forced induction) unless you go to flat top pistons or deck the head until the combustion chamber has only about half the original volume (normally the piston dish makes up half the combustion chamber volume). note as i said above if you deck a head to much you weaken it, and potentially make it more unreliable in the long term. from memory a 4k-e head on a normal flat top 4k would give near a 16:1 CR. almost be able to run it on diesel :P not

5K Block (stock) Bore & Stroke : 80.5 x 73 Displacment : (fill me in ) - 1486

Stock 3k Head... Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 Standard Port Size - Inlet : ~25mm Standard Port Size - Exhaust : 21/26 mm W/H Big Port 3k Head... Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 Standard Port Size - Inlet : ~30mm Standard Port Size - Exhaust : 21/26 mm W/H 3K-B head (not 3k bigport, has 2 water galleries leading to inlet manifold, very very rare) Compression Ratio: 10.0:1 Standard Port Size - Inlet : ~30mm Standard Port Size - Exhaust : 21/26 mm W/H Stock 4k Head... Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 Standard Port Size - Inlet : ~25mm Standard Port Size - Exhaust : 21/26 mm W/H 4K-E dished piston head (small combustion chamber) Compression Ratio: 9.5.0:1 Standard Port Size - Inlet : ~27mm Standard Port Size - Exhaust : 21/26 mm W/H Stock 5k Head... (small combustion chamber, dished pistons) Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 Standard Port Size - Inlet : ~25 Standard Port Size - Exhaust : 21/26 mm W/H all the heads had pretty much the same size exhaust ports. valve size is the same except on early K (1100 cc) heads which had slightly smaller valves. how far you can port them has alot to do with how neatly they were cast. some were done neatly, some not so well. note bigger ports are more suited to engines developing topend power, small ports for low end torque. if anything the earlier bigport heads have ports to big for the valve size.

one thing to keep in mind with colours like that pearly green is touchups etc. chances are if you have a minor scratch or a bingle on one panel, you will need to respray the entire side of the car to make it all match up again properly.

everyone should try to forget camiras :)

yea ben, makes life a lot easier to stay the same colour. saves you having to paint the door jambs, dash (on ke1xs) and inside door tops on earlier cars. also the boot, engine bay and under the bonnet doesn't need to be done all at once. one of the worst colours for showing dirt is british racing green. i helped a friend paint his rx4 in it years ago. he had to wash the thing twice a week as it showed up dust so bad. dark colours look dirty really quick.

i would go for a factory paint colour, and make it so whatever you do to the car can be undone. this is so if and when you ever want to sell the car, you can return it to standard looking to give yourself a larger selling market. then you can keep or sell your good bits separately. you get alot more money back this way. this is just my opinion, you do as you please.

that is cool.

i like the engine crane, would love one of those. i make do with an endless chain and my engine stand i bought new from the markets for $40. i love sunday markets. the autodarkening helmets are excellent. i always found i could mig so well with one of those, but fumbled in the dark without. it is amazing how guys from muffler shops and the like sometimes don't even use a mask. they just close their eyes and weld. experience i guess.

i wouldn't mind more info about the autocross this weekend. start time, supp regs, entry form.

actually if you shave the head it gives you more lifter preload.