Felix

sounds like you need an SU manifold. have thoughts of later adding injectors and a fuel rail to a set of SU's. you'd rip the guts out of the carbs. add TPS and MAP sensor. oldschool looking EFI. :thumbsup:

'68 ke15 sprinter - my daily driver '68 ke16 wagon - becs daily driver '67 ke10 sedan - probably get club rego soon '67 ke10 sedan - needs rustwork and restore one day. also have 3 HQ holdens i have owned lots of other cars, but these are what we have now.

i agree totally Ben. not to many websites have decent searchable parts listings. kyb listings for corollas

yea, the bottom back nut on the last SU is a pain, undoing and doing it up a 1/12 of a turn at a time. think i am going to redesign that bloody heatshield, to make it 2 piece or something. would make life soo much easier. arghh! i stripped a manifold stud when i did the carb changeover. this was putting the last nut on after swapping to the downdraught manifold. :sad: wasn't too happy. fortunately it was the second stud back on the head and i could get it out with locking pliers. haha. depends on how they are setup :) it is nice with a 5k, not having to rev the coit out of it to get going, compared to a similarly developed 4k. makes power so much easier.

yea, i might do later Pete. more important other things to do first.

was kinda funny. i wrapped him up, then it was like i turned off the key the way it sorta just stopped in a hurry as i hit 3rd. i had to pull off to the side of the road and pump the accelerator a bit to keep it running. i thought initially i broke something :) , but then noticed my A/F meter was reading L for off the scale lean. whew, did i breath a sigh of relief.

the problem with the exhaust leak was caused by the SU manifold flange being thicker than the extractor flange. i will fix it later, as well as set the SUs up a bit better before putting them back on. for the time being i have put my 32/32 DGV weber back on. the carb was pretty well setup for the last engine and runs well with the new 5k. if anything it is a bit on the small side in the upper rev region (has 23/24 mm venturis). i will put the 28/36 DCD weber on in the next day or two as it is less restrictive (25/27 mm venturis). the car goes really well. so much more grunt than the 4k. i wasted a new camry sportivo VVT-I 3 times. the guy wasn't to happy. i thought he would have given up on the second go. the last time from a set of lights i gave it everything and could comfortably change lanes in front of him by the end of second, even with him getting a slight jump on me. as i hit 3rd my car had a big splutter, i had run the float bowl dry. i have finally found the limit of the standard mechanical fuel pumps. i have a much "bigger" fuel pump and regulator in the pipeline to take care of future planned mods ;)09

yes, thanks Rob. now i have a much better idea how to setup the return springs for each carb.

the SUs are nice looking, if somewhat of a pain in the ass to setup. Peter, how did you have the return springs setup when they were on your ke20? i'm thinking that each carb needs one as well as the central linkage. there is to much play in the linkages atm. also the throttle pedal is way soft.

she's a goer. got it all together and fed it water and oil and cranked it over (with coil lead removed) until the oil light went out. i topped up the oil then kicked it in the guts. it started first go! :) it runs ok. has got an exhaust leak at the head :sad: looks as though i will have to pull off the SU's to fix it. might just throw on the weber for the time being, as the linkages and return springs on the SUs need a little more thought i think. the SU's are a bugger to put on. took it for a run and it has heaps more grunt than the old 4k. it sounds a lot deeper, and really goes through the gears fast. the idle is a bit wild sounding at the moment, further work setting up the SU's and properly balancing them should help.

well in a ke1x you have to run the fan in front of the radiator, as there is no room behind. so really you can't set up a decent shroud, so the cooling efficiency is down. a plastic fan is way better than the original steel bladed fan. becs car has a 10" davies craig thermo on the front. when i put my old 4k in it, i will run a plastic fan on it, and try the thermo on my car.

haha, the mechanical fan cools better than an electric fan. when i'm sure the thing will run cool i might swap radiators over with the one in becs car which has an electric fan. BTW, becs' ke16 has an electric fan and the thing runs bloody hot in warm weather. i have never really had any cooling issues running a plastic fan, even when doing hard climbs up mt glorious. becs car ran nearly off the dial even when crawling up. the engine is now in. just need to connect up the tailshaft, and hook up the extractors, SUs, radiator, wires and all the fiddly shit. should be going later this arv. :) anyway lunch is over.....back to it

VDO make aftermarket fuel senders and guage kits. maybe have a look at one of them. you would have to play around setting up the sender. probably be cheaper than a genuine toyota one if you can still get them. vdo gauge and sender on ebay here

twin 1 3/4" SU's should certainly help

woohoo, my 5k is now together and ready to go in my ke15 tomorrow. the 5k has 9.5:1 CR, mild porting, valve springs with dampers (good for over 8 grand), tighe 113 cam (25/65 65/25 400 thou lift), solid lifter conversion, double row timing chain. should go well. :)

Teddy - sure, guess one of these days we will meet up. always nice to put a face to a name.

haha, i'm sure it'll have more giggle factor. ;)

yup. a 5k built to pretty much the same specs as current 4k. will also be running twin SU's thanks to Peter. should go a bit harder ;)

hi papasmurf, what is in your car now, just the standard 3k and 4speed? the 5 speed will bolt in, you will just need to cut a new shifter hole further back to suit. you may have to massage the tunnel a bit to clearance the gearbox. if you use a late ke70 box you will need to drill a couple of extra holes in the gearbox crossmember. you may need to extend the reversing light wires. if you are currently running an original gearbox you will most likely need to replace the input shaft part of the tailshaft with a later one to suit the 5 speed. this just swaps onto your original tailshaft with a new uni joint. note, there are 2 different types of tailshaft and diffs in the ke11s. some have jap diff (where the diff center unbolts from the front of the diff housing) and borg warner (diff has inspection plate which bolts onto rear of diff housing). make sure you check this so you can get the right input shaft bit for the tailshaft. if you currently have an auto, i think i have all the bits laying around for a manual conversion (minus 5speed). 3k, 4k and 5k will bolt straight in. 2 of my cars have 4ks and ke70 5speeds in them at the moment. have a 5k to go in my ke15 in the next week or so. not really to much to worry about putting in a later engine. about the only concerns are: later engines have finer thread bolts holding engine to box. engine to box strengthening brackets on manifold side can interfere with steering drag link (leave off). 4k and 5k have higher deck heights so you can have problems sometimes as your exhaust may rub on the floor after an engine change, especially with extractors.

haha, i can just imagine Pete, or Ryan at the motorkhanas........"where'd all the flags go?"

UZI ;)

i keep saying, twin turbo it Pete ;) haha... i'm sure it'll have more than enough grunt for doing motorkhanas as is. your going to need a good supply of tyres Pete.

going to be a tight fit in his ke20. gunna go though ;)

pete dropped by on his way to taking his engine out to his brothers place to give me a look see at his new toy. that's a lot of engine. very nice!

it's not running a bit lean now with the new exhaust system? also i've found too much timing advance can make your car run hot.