Felix

a 3k in a ke35 would be like pushing shit uphill if you want it to drift in the dry. get a bigger motor, or at least a supercharger.....you need torque. otherwise sell your ke35, find a ke10, fit a 5k to that and you may well drift. what is the fascination with drifting anyway? it is slower through a corner, unless the road is dirt.

20V_KE35, would be something like this: all engines assume 10:1 CR, standard valve size with similar amount of headwork, and have 200cfm carburation. take 10% from all figures and you may get close assuming perfect fuelling and ignition.

k engines had smaller valves in original form. i'd work the 3k. a better idea would be to start with a 4k or 5k if you can find one. a tough 5k is quite quick in a little ke15 :) i've worked through a progression of engines in varying states of tune in my ke15. from the weazy stock k to a warm k, a mild 3k, a warm 4k, and now a grunter 5k. the k engine was always flat out keeping up with traffic, zero torque. the 3k quite fun in a revvy way, but no torque. the 4k actually way more exciting than i expected able to embarass a hell of a lot of cars it really shouldn't have, for the $$ invested. and now the 5k, which just does everything with ease, like driving up the mountain where i lived, loaded up with family and gear, able to pull 4th gear the whole way...torque is good. make sure to update your brakes, mine had drums on it standard. with ke30 discs it stops as quick from 140km/h, as what the drums did from 80km/h.

go make friends with an aeromodeller. a lot of them are into composite moulding. check out aeromodelling books at the library.

i used to have a ke30 2door sedan and thought it was so good.... until one day this beautiful little red ke15 rolls up at a set of lights and proceeded to blow my doors off. the ke30 just looked ugly from then on, by comparison. i didn't know what it was at the time. a chance find of one in a wreckers a year or so later, let me in on what they were (the 1st of 4 ke1x sprinters i have seen in the wreckers in over 12 years). i lusted after them for years. took me about 5 years to track down the one i have now. i now have a ke1x, coupe, wagon, and 2 sedans. i would never drive a later corolla, they have no real interest for me, except parts. LOL. i think the thing that does it for me with the ke15/17 coupes is the european fiat like styling, but with japanese reliability. the ke16/18 are the nicest by far of all the corolla wagons. the ke10/11 sedans themselves are ok, cute, but nothing real exciting. they respond to simple mods, particularly engine mods, so much better than all the later (heavier) models. of the ke2x, i like the ke25s (look very rx3 coupish, tough when done right), but don't think much of the sedans and wagons. i was thinking for a next car, i would love a mk 1 escort, with a turboed 2l pinto.

yea, something like a J port or monster port. or even a PP. at this stage of tune it would need to be rebuilt every 12 months. the only thing with an NA rotary, is when they get to bridgeport stage or further, is that the corner/side seals cop a hiding and wear out alot quicker. something like an extended mild port would last years if revs are kept sane (and make 200hp). a friend rebuilt his J port 13b a while back. it cost him $2500 for parts, and he is a mechanic. the carbon apex seals were $200 each (you need 6). a 12a is a 2.4 liter engine. a 13b a 2.6L. they have 1 power pulse per rotor side per revolution, like a 2 stroke..... a rotary is effectively a 4 cycle 2 stroke. a normal 4 stoke, has only has 1 power stroke, per piston, every second revolution.

i like the ke10 with the whitewalls and the sprinter hubcaps beside it. more pics please.

very very nice, Bec loved it. she wants to do hers up nice now.

this was my favourite :)

was a good day. the drive after was very enjoyable. going home down the mountain was fun.....andrew, you're a mad man LOL!

no. pretty sure they are to long.

the original 3k engines had the big port welschplug head, and no pollution gear. as they had to lug around increasingly heavier vehicles, the engines became more torque orientated (smaller ports). yea, also emmisions........

yup, thats the one. i use the fuel mixture display kit in standard narrow band mode. still is an awesome tuning aid for NA carbed engines. wouldn't worry to much about a wideband setup unless you have a hot turbo setup and a programmable computer.

motorkhanas aren't nice on your equipment at all. you really need to uprate your gearbox fook, W55 time? your 3 boxes that had 4th die must have had rooted bearings when you put them in. isn't 4th straight through? add a big stally and a turbo :dance:

i have been running the same $150 ke70 K50 in my ke15 for over 4 years, and it is still going strong. i initially had it behind a tough 4k with which i did 100's of flat changes into second wrapping up v6 commys and the like. in fact when i took it out to willowbank it was chirping 3rd gear on the quarter with sticky A539s on the back. i blew up the first pressure plate i had behind that motor after a few months, and replaced it with a modded 5k item. it has been cut with a rough cross hatch pattern on the pressure plate face, and grips like crazy for a near stock item. when i changed from the last 4k to my current 5k, i bought a new clutch plate. i needn't have bothered, as the old one still looked brand new. not bad after all the abuse i gave it over 3 years or so, including second gear clutch dumps during handbrake turns at motorkhanas. one thing that needs to be considered though is that a ke15 is probably 150 - 200 kgs lighter than a ke30-55. i sort of think most people who break boxes on a regular basis, need to learn how to drive, and be a little easier on their equipment. i know myself when i was younger i had a ke30 with a near stock 4k, i blew up 5 k40 boxes behind that.....

another thing to worry about with heat wrap is increased fire risk. anyone ever had a carb needle and seat jam open and flood the carb? where does all the excess fuel go.... all over the extractors. get your exhaust flanged for easy removal. i got a 3 bolt flange put on at the end of my extractors. i am still using the same gasket that was put on when i got the system done about 5-6 years ago. it has seen 4 different engine combos and i must have removed the extractors a dozen times.

i wouldn't knock the old ETs to much. they went alright for what they are, in their day. there is one in a Zoom mag i have. 212kw at wheels and a high 11 sec quarter. 1500cc E15T single cammer, with ACL duralite pistons.

number 3 on my old ke30 went to the fuel tank vent hose.

it would be your mixtures. if your car is lean (which it sounds like it probably was), you will find as the temps heat up the mixtures get richer, improving performance. this is simply due to the fact that a given volume of air has less oxygen particles the hotter it gets, but the same quantity of fuel per volume of air is still added. ie a carb can't compensate for temp, humidity and elevation above sea level. i really noticed this after fitting an O2 sensor and Air fuel meter. i live at 300 m above sea level. i regularly do the school run to 550m above sea level, and alternatively do a lot of driving around off the mountain. you can see the car get richer on the climb. it is only about 0.4 of a ratio difference by my meter, but is noticable seat of the pants.

i have a few double v belt crank pulleys from late 4k's laying around if you are near brisbane. not sure on diameter compared to the 3k pulleys, but the second (aircon?) pulley was smaller than the alternator/waterpump drive pulley from memory. the holes with thread are for the factory removal SST's. the double row pulleys i have are one piece and also have threaded holes in them to.

i have heard of guys doing modern supercharger conversions and using 2 throttle bodies coupled to work synchronously..... one before the supercharger and one after. supposedly eliminates the need for a blow off valve.

you are looking at the latest in efi setups from Moon it would have to be the coolest efi setup i've ever seen. makes me want to get hold of a heap of metal epoxy and attack a set of twin aisans.

LOL, i'm not giving anything away until tonight :D

a 5k sump fits fine in a ke15. the previous dished 4k had an identical sump and it fitted with the splash shield, before i had to remove it for my swaybar setup. i have no xmember clearance issues, and i have lowered the engine mount on the manifold side by 10mm or so. my first experience with single row chains was with an imported 4k. the thing rattled like a bitch. i replaced the single row chain, and had to redo it again only 12 months or so later as it stretched real fast. after the pain it was to change over the first time, i raided a double row setup off an old 3k (with new chain and tensioners), as i didn't want to do it again in a hurry. i have converted a couple of dished 4k's and my 5k to double row. you just need to pirate the double row setup from an old 3k. bolts straight in. about the only thing i can really think of to stop someone converting to double row, is the pain in the ass it is to do it in the car. ie. raising the engine, dropping the sump and removing the timing cover, then having to seal it all up again.

mmm, these are nice. a couple on a twin aisan manifold would work well. anyone think they can work out what they are? :D