Felix

my 5k runs double valve springs, actually, the inner spring is more a damper type spring. they came from petes old race car. think they are some sort of aftermarket holden spring. it would operate over 8 grand most of the time when they were doing motorkhanas, it had a 30/70 cam, and the same lifter setup i now run. i have had my 5k well over 8 grand, but there is not much point. the cam (tighe 113 25/65) gives faster acceleration if i change at 7 grand, and let the torque in the next gear do the work. note the same cam would make power to 8 grand when it was in my previous 4k, and come on cam about a thousand revs later. i raised the rev limiter in the 4k (LOL), by shimming the stocky valve springs until there was 10 thou between coils at full lift. at motorkhanas i would often just hold it flat and let the thing valve float continuously. had quite a few people come up and ask me if i had ever heard of a rev limiter. :thumbsup:

most cam manufacturers recommend if using double valve springs, to run in the cam using just the outer springs. you should add the inner springs only AFTER the cam has been properly run in.

if you are near a capital city, go to a place that manufactures conveyor belts. they can sell you rubber sheet in pretty much any thickness you want. i have used this stuff for door mirror gaskets, and also for the rear number plate lights mounted on rear bumpers and other things.

ballast resistor

yep, as it states in the FAQ, the lifters pump up and the valves don't seat properly at high revs. basically you will have a power loss at high RPM. maybe even burnt valves if you push it to much. need to reword the FAQ to aftermarket solid lifters for holden red motors. all red motors have hydraulics as standard. really you need to think about what you want from your engine. if you want an 8grand screamer, solids are the go. myself i reused the cam from my previous 4k which is a solid lifter grind, hence the need to change lifter types.

no idea, you would have to ask someone like blown5k. he may know. the lifters in my 5k, are converted hydraulics. they have simply had the circlip taken out of the top, the guts ripped out, and the lower pushrod seat dropped into the bottom of the lifter. i got them like this from peter (uze20), from his old club car 5k which he ran for 2 years or so. i have been using them for near 12 months now. pushrods are 3k items which are a little to long. initially the the rockers tapped the underside of the rocker cover until i dremelled the cover. not ideal. superjamie has since given me some K (1100) pushrods which are a little shorter, and should perfect the setup, once i get around to fitting them. also i have a set of shortened rocker pedestals which should correct rocker geometry, centering the wiping action of the rocker to valve stems. i thought i had a burnt valve a while back from the rockers still contacting the rocker cover and closing up the valve clearances. turned out to be a cracked inlet manifold, causing a huge vacuum leak to one of the cylinders.

i have read in a few places on the net (not sure whether to believe or not), that 4ke's came with some weirdass hydraulic lifters originally. apparently they were supposed to be silicon filled or something, and most failed prematurely. they were replaced by toyota with solids under warranty. i have had 3 dished piston 4ks so far. all had solids. i should also add the 4k dished piston lifters i have seen, are the same diameter as all other k/3k/4k engines.

i had monroe GTs allround in my old ke30. gave an extremely stiff ride. lasted for ages. i have ke30 monroe GTs in the front of my ke15 now. the ride is fairly harsh with them as well. this is with cut down ke20 coils, making them probably 20% stiffer than original, plus they also carry less weight. on the back i have non gas Tokikos which are also very firm. becs ke16 has ke30 monroe standard duties in the front. they are way softer, and transfer weight a lot quicker. don't like them for spirited driving. nice for cruising, without the bone jarring ride. i have also had monroes in my EH, and HQ holdens, and have had good experiences with them. i did have a set blow out the seals on the front, when Bec used to drive Gap Creek road everyday in the Quey. it was like the worst corrugated/choppy road i have ever experienced. could only idle along it in second in my ke15. would make your vision blur. jamie, were yours GTs, or just standard duties? big difference between the two. i'm not saying monroes are the greatest or anything, but they do provide acceptable results for the dollars spent, so long as they are matched to the application. like anything i guess. pretty much all of my cars i have driven over the last 15 years have used them.

TRD part number for a 3k-4k oil pan baffle is 12121-KP651 *from "Toyota Performance Handbook" by Pat Braden, 1990

the main advantage of hydraulics is ease of maintenance, and quiet running. 5ks were mainly meant for vans. to much of a pain in the ass to adjust the valve clearances in a van at every service. my zero dollar hydraulic to solid conversion works fine. pushrod length is the only real issue.

i change oil every 6 months. my motors only cost me like $400 so really i don't care. my last 4k cost $350 and lasted 3 1/2 years and was still going strong. it still has many miles left in it. it ran ryco filters and $15 oil. thinking about it, your problem with your oil was probably due to going to synthetic to early and glazing your bores.

nick, the 4k in your ke70 would have had such low compression values because the cam had so much overlap. nothing to do with the lifters. a big cam has low cranking compression, but greater dynamic compression at high revs. something i have heard of is people converting to electric fuel pumps, and using the old mechanical pump to suck crankcase pressure out. also have heard of people using exhaust suction to relieve crankase pressure (need to have a oneway anti backfire valve in the system). maybe consider running the biggest vent possible off the rocker cover. i don't run a pcv system at all. just a hose to the aircleaner, and one to a small catchcan. early 3k rocker covers only have one vent, to the dump pipe, which sprays excess crankcase pressure along the transmission tunnel. maybe modify your oil cap so it also acts as a vent, with a large filter on top.

yes, but it shows what can be done by someone who actually knows what they are on about. "John McKenzie" <[email protected]> give him an email. not sure if it is current still. he is a very helpful guy.

garbage. john mackenzie, who used to frequent oldcorollas ran over 20 psi through a non-intercooled blowthrough carbed 3k before he had any issues. even then it was head related, nothing to do with the bottom end. look way back through the oldcorollas archives. mid 14s from a 3k in a ke30 aint to bad. so long as you keep the AF ratios right, reduce total timing and look into charge cooling you shouldn't have to many problems, especially if the engine is decompressed. it is all in the tune, and overall matching of components. of all the engines i have heard of dieing, it is because they weren't setup properly. ie, not decompressed, or they paid no attention to reducing overall timing under boost, or had an insufficient fuel supply. probably the biggest reason for engine deaths, is just using old unknown condition engines. if you are looking for a blowthru carb, i have a weber DMTT if you are interested.

good for forced induction. you could always skim your head for more compression. the only way to know for sure is to CC your head and work out the compression ratio.

:y:

just drive it while you get all the bits together for a 4agze conversion. seems to be the safest bet for an AFE upgrade from what i understand. this really is the wrong forum for this type of question.

"you make my slinky go doing, doing, doing" LOL i'd try cleaning up the solenoid, and giving the contacts a dressing with some sandpaper.

doesn't surprise me. thanks Fook. thinking i might also try dropping the main xmember and remove sump. then i can remove the bearing caps and get a better idea on what is going on.

check this out pity it won't quite fit in a corolla....

timing belt is intact. i can rock the cam pulley back and forward slightly with a ratchet, taking up the slack in the belt. don't think there is any contact there at all. all the plugs look fine, so no obvious contact there. the car rolls in neutral. not sure if that would cancel out a rooted box though. wouldn't the torque converter allow me to turn the engine over at least a bit? never really ever had anything to do with autos (or FWDs for that matter) before. all new to me. i have to wait until the missus gets home so i can push the car back into the shed. my driveway is on a bit of a slope. then i can get under to get to the lower starter bolts to remove it and cancel out a seized/engaged starter. one thing i have found is a cracked exhaust manifold after removing the heatshield. will have to get another one. is a FWD and a RWD one the same? AFAIK the exhaust manifold patterns at the head are the same on 4acs and 4afes. probably different where the secondary pipes join up....... the engine from the local wreckers is looking like a good prospect.

i'll take 3 of those

would love to do a conversion. just seems like to much of a hassle atm, as i want to get the car on the road within the next month. i saw a twinky ae82 in the tradingpost for $650 or so, but it needs a new head or something. more rooting around and $$ then i really want to expend atm. seems strange that the engine is seized. the oil looks ok, no chocolate milkshake or anything. also the coolant looks normal, and isn't low or anything. doesn't seem to be obviously overheated. there is no holes in the block, that i can see anyway. the car looks as though it has been regularly serviced, has a sticker for next service at 233,000 km on the inside of the windscreen....has 233,010km on the speedo. i don't mind paying the $325 for the 4afe at the local wreckers, would prefer to get out of it cheaper if possible. it might be the way to go, if there isn't something stupidly simple stopping this one turning over. i just asked if anyone had one laying around as generally they are looked upon as boat anchors. Fook, that is strange. i have found at that place price can depend on who is working the counter at the time. going for another stickybeak.

the car is home now. came up good with a wash. still need to clean up the interior, extremely grotty but in good nick. the engine is well and truly locked solid. hoping it is something simple like a seized starter motor. had the one in my ke15 lock up a few weeks ago, thought the 5k was rooted, was lucky there. rang a few wreckers about parts. amazingly wacol wreckers is very expensive for a 4afe....they want $650 :D the local wreckers near me only want $325. bit of a price difference. anyone have a spare 4afe laying around, or know where one is going cheap?

1100 hp 7mgte dragster in malta. these guys are just as mad as the puerto ricans