Felix

if you want to go lower, cut the wheel arches out of the guards, and weld them in lower.

no point lowering a car past the point where the lower arms are parallel to the ground, otherwise you just f@$k the geometry.

ok, not to much wider. i run the same wheel/tyre combo on both the ke15 and ke16. neither has a problem with scrubbing. even when fully loaded. i agree, the wagon springs are a LOT harder. it doesn't handle anywhere as well as the ke15 in the rear. having a load on board helps a lot.

how much wider is it? how do you go with scrubbing with a load on?

love the mini. would have to have solid suspension :n:

dodge tomahawk V10 500HP more info here

last set of wheel bearings i got done, i supplied my new bearings and axles to a workshop. cost $30 to get the old ones pressed off and the new ones pressed on.

i have considered doing this with my ke15, but thought it isn't really worth the effort. there is no simple bolt in option. i have retained the standard stud pattern, and simply gone to mazda 13x5.5" steel rims, as they fit the car perfectly and allow me to run decent performance tyres in 185/60r13. yea, the front is easy. just bolt on later hubs. the back is a different story. you could adapt a ke20 diff housing as it is the next narrowest housing, and do a ke30 axle swap (need to trim each axle splined end about 3mm) to that to get your 4x114.3. the only problem is that it will be about 50mm wider which will limit wheel selection, unless you want to start flaring guards. doing the above swap won't make any difference strengthwise, you just end up with bigger self adusting drums and your 4x114.3. also you will need to fiddle around with handbrake cables and moving diff mounts. maybe look into getting your existing axles and drums redrilled? maybe you could investigate a rear axle from a datsun 1200, or 120y or something, to get the right width? other than that you could look at something stronger and get it narrowed. but that is a bit overkill for a 3k.

:n: she cracks me up....and she's all mine :P

nice, i have one of these for my glider (scary little thing to tune your fingers are so close to the prop), .049 cu in, so tiny:

the boxer is a 1/8 scale model of a Porsche 356 Carrera engine.

i've seen a couple of ke35/55 coupes in the wreckers that had been T-boned, both on passenger side. due to the pillarless design (no B pillar), the front door and rear (where their normally is a door) had folded over the front and rear passenger seats. intrusion bars would be of no value. B pillars are good.

Nick, that wasn't the 1/4 mile time, it was the 0-100km/h time. way slow. go the 12" wheels and tyres. lol

i'd be getting chicks opinions, not single guys....you are trying to pick up chicks not guys now...

actually they did pierce the tank on mythbusters, i saw that one....it was to prove whether or not Jaws could have been blown up in the original movie. the tank acted like a rocket, or like a balloon if you blow one up and let it go. it was a straight o2 tank. oxygen isn't flammable, unless added to a burning fuel source. scuba tanks are made of alloy as well as steel.

sounds like my missus when she goes out, "oh no, what do i wear!" LOL! she recommends the green one.

looks heaps better. i like the front wheels best. the rear style is pretty common looking in different brands, nice dish though. would look good with flares, and proper width fat tyres. not really into the wide rims skinny tyre look myself....the way i drive i'd buckle or scrape the rim edge, bouncing the car through roundabouts and the like... not to mention peeling the tyres off on the rougher roads i frequent. you need some of the early chrome aussie bumpers, and it would look even better.

i did a few calculations. assuming your petrol 4k got 12 km/L, and you did 20 thousand kms a year. it would take approx 2 to 2 1/2 years to pay off your new gas conversion, if it cost $2500. that is before you can really start to enjoy the benefits of your cheaper alternative fuel. plus then you really need to mod your engine to get the most benefits from LPG. more $$.

make it easy to get mod plated. no emissions hassles. where does the tank go? do you just rip out the existing fuel tank, and mount the LPG tank behind the back seat, or does it take up half of your boot? personally i don't like the increased risk of fire/explosion in an accident. probably not such an issue in a bigger car or 4wd, but in a little car......something to keep in mind.

from what i understand: you need to up the compression ratio to around 11:1 to get the best from LPG. also LPG has a lower calorific value for the same volume as normal petrol, so you have to burn more LPG to make the same power. LPG has lower emissions, which is one good thing going for it.

maybe having the TPS disconnected is what is causing your lowend stumble. the computer wouldn't know how much throttle you are using. maybe look into hooking up a vacuum switch to your aircon. so when you go back to idle, it switches off.

heaters were an optional extra on the ke1x series of cars. our '68 ke16 didn't have one.

heaters were an optional extra on the ke1x series of cars. our ke16 didn't have one.

there used to be this smartass guy at a place i worked at. he had this suzuki sierra 4x4, that had a lift kit, yellow rims, spotties on the roof, and Tonka Tough stickers all over it. bit of a waste as it rarely even saw a dirt road. one day i got a Sportsgirl plastic bag off of one of the chicks who worked there. i cut it up and stuck the logo on his spare wheel cover on the back of his car with clear tape. he always reverse parked it. LOL. he didn't realise until the next day, he was wandering why everyone was giggling at him if they passed, or at lights if they rocked up after him. :cool:

:cool: not happy Jan