Felix

check out what these guys are doing with the old 2L pinto motors. :D amazing. this is an 11 second motor......wow!

i have no idea if this is your problem, but: is the clutch plate around the right way? years ago i put a clutch plate in backwards on my old ke30. what a pain in the ass, having to pull the box twice due to my own stupidity (lack of experience at the time). oh well, you learn from your own mistakes. character building, as they say.

that was amazing. love the way he sits on the line a few seconds to give the mazda a head start before totally anhilating it.

does that include camrys? they are like toyotas equivalent of the camira. see, even the first three letters are the same.

so long as you have the jap diff housing.. yes

only if you fit the center in a jap ke70 diff housing.

i saw a set on a vl crummydore a few weeks ago in ipswich. made me laugh. looked stupid.

they only came on ke11s and ke20s standard. check the back of the head. if it has a plate with 4 bolts it isn't a bigport. if it has a round welschplug you are in luck.

saw that after i posted. i'd be looking at getting a jockey wheel. makes things a lot easier if you want to disconnect your trailer with stuff still in it.

the rego price i quoted is from the current rego certificate for my 6x4 trailer. its' not a really healthy specimin. a steel floor should take more of a load, although my trailer has a marine plywood floor with a sheet of steel over it. it is sitting at my parents with flattened springs, it has 2 k engines in it, numerous heads, as well as 5 gearboxes, 3 diffs, countless struts and other crap. it is really loaded up. must be close to half a tonne sitting in it. one thing about the ply floor is that rust wont set in as quick, if it has to be stored out in the open. i guess a steel floor, properly treated, with decent drain holes would be fine. you can put sides on your trailer. mine had steel tube uprights which bolted into the corners, and further pipes with right angle joiners to tie all the corner bits together. i would hate to pull a car on a single axled trailer. would be extremely dangerous if you had a blowout. i know with a 6x4 they can swerve around a bit if a tyre goes on you. i'd even have a look around at new trailers Fook. there used to be a couple of places around Ipswich that made them and they sold for a lot less than you would expect.

rego for a 6x4 trailer is only $58.70 per year in QLD. i have seen a few for sale recently for $350 upwards. not sure if you need a roadworthy type thing.queensland transport would be the place to ask. the main things to check are rust, and general condition. check the axle to make sure it is not bent from being overloaded. check the locking mechanism where it goes on your towball to ensure it will want to stay connected to your car. parts are readily available in auto shops if you find one that needs a bit of work. one thing to look at is the length from the towball to axle on the trailer. the longer the "wheelbase" the better it will tow, ie be less twitchy, and be much easier to reverse. the only thing with car trailers is cost. they are worth lotsa $$$. if you were smart you could track down and old dual axle caravan, rip the top off (make a few $ for the scrap aluminium) and convert it into a car trailer. Peter (uze20) did this, and it owed him under a grand all up. it works very well, as he has helped me move a few cars now. just needs a winch, but it is amazing what you can do without one. have seen a car trailer recently going second hand for $4500.

the ke30 discs on my ke15 bolted straight up. the original struts just needed redrilling and tapping to take the later larger bolts.

the car is an auto, and probably will stay that way in the near future. it will be for the missus mainly. it won't be for skids or anything. maybe later i may look into an engine conversion, and change to a manual. from what i have heard (from a guy who has actually done it), it is easier to drop the engine and box from a FWD corolla, than out of a ke1x. it is all the wiring and fiddly shit that makes the newer car more awkward. shit the ke16 is 37 years old, makes a 15 year old car look wet behind the ears, LOL. have you ever tried tracking down a new idler arm for a ke1x? not a big deal if the car is a weekend cruiser, or a resto shed queen, but not for a daily driver. most ke corollas are rust buckets unfortunately, and they are all getting to old for regular daily duties. the main reasons for updating are parts availability, and comfort.....especially on all the crappy rough roads around where i live now.

hey guys, i've come across a 92-93 holden nova sedan for a good price which i am going to pick up later this week. it has a few issues (as it should for the price), which will need to be fixed for RWC. the first thing is the drivers door, which has been rooted after a ute backed into it. i am assuming that the doors should be the same from ae90/92 4door corollas... will they fit? also the 4afe in it is supposedly seized or something. no idea really until i get it home and start fiddling. even if it needs a new engine, i imagine i can pick up a 4afe for not to much $$. the car will never be intended as a ground shaker or anything, just something reliable, comfy and cheap to run, with readily available spares. also it is an auto, is it a straighforward changeover to a manual? i've never really had anything much to do with FWD corollas so it will be an all new learning curve for me.

NGKs always have worked the best for me. not only should you consider brand, but also design. from the factory the dished piston 4ks and 5ks have long reach projected nose plugs in them, as the combustion chamber is sunk half into the piston. the factory ND plugs are the equivalent of an XF-EA plug. the only problem is that it is hard getting plugs in different heat ranges with the long nosed plugs. i have tried just running normal styled plugs, like the normal 3k/4k ones which are easily available in different heat ranges. the only problem is they are noticably down on power over the long nosed plugs. guess the spark isn't being fired in the centre of the combustion chamber in a 5k.

not really. more a symptom of a lean idle. is the idle speed screw wound in much, or just touching the throttle linkage? how many turns in is the idle speed screw from just touching the linkage? also the idle mixture screw, how many turns out from just seating? how badly does the car runon? what are the sparkplugs like? condition? heatrange not to hot?

looks like a Hotwheels Blings. little kids would love it.

maybe richen the idle? retard the ignition a bit? vacuum leak? adjust valve clearances? decoke cylinder head?

for the lotus? yes.

1981 lotus esprit turbo capacity 2174cc. Twin Dellorto blowthrough DHLA 45 carburettors Garrett T3 turbocharger boost pressure 9.5psi (0.67bar) Max power 215bhp (PS-DIN) (160kW ISO) at 6000rpm Max torque 2201b ft (298 Nm) at 4250rpm PERFORMANCE Maximum Speed: 153.5 mph (247 kpm) Acceleration: 0 - 60 mph, 5.4 Seconds Standing mile: 13.7secs, 103mph standing KM: 25.0secs, 129mph

ONLY one blower?

you need a GZE then fook.

4-2-1s are easier to work with...in a ke1x anyway. the 4into1 collectors are a bit large.

i totally agree blown 5k i run 4 into 1s in my car. more to do with being the right price at the right time then anything else. ideally i would have gone 4-2-1s at the time, the extra midrange would have been nice with the previous K, 3K, and 4K. i have a set of 4-2-1s to play with, but couldn't be bothered changing them over. i don't think they would be so much of a benefit now with the current 5k. jamie, you can never have enough torque. my ke15 with warm 5k goes up the toowoomba range in 5th, the ke16 with (admittedly sad) stock ke70 4k with 4-2-1s needs 3rd.

i would do an engine conversion. it is not like you don't have the room in a ke55 engine bay. if you had a ke10 i would say work the 4k, then you can waste v6s on a regular basis. 5ks are even better. :) but in a ke55 which is around 200kgs heavier i wouldn't bother...conversion time.