Felix

the manifold is a bit bizare. looks as though it was welded then had a heap of epoxy added for strengthening or something.

i got these carbs yesterday, and am quite curious about them. they are mikuni/solex carbs. as near as i can tell they are from a '74 RT104 GT with an 18RG. not sure if 40 or 44mm yet, have to pull them off yet. the manifold is interesting as it is modified. the guy i got them off thought it was to suit a 2L escort, but i'm not so sure. i have trawled through a few gasket books and it looks as though the manifold is for a 2T. can anyone verify? are 2T and 2TG inlet manifold gaskets different?

sounds like it needs a new set of valve stem seals. the old ones are most likely hardened with age. when i had my old ke30 many years ago, i bought a jap import 4k for it. that engine went 230,000 hard kays before i changed it. regarding oils, pretty much any oil available these days is of a higher standard than what a 3k was designed to use when it came out.

what about timing? if the ignition is too far advanced it will run hotter. was the radiator at least backflushed with a hose before fitment? was the block flushed? maybe the engine is still tight and will need time to loosen up and bed in.

haha, i passed a 300ZX going the other way a few days ago, he was going down the mountain. so much for having a decent car, he had 3 cars sitting up his ass that he was slowing down. what a waste.......

haha, we're both mad :thumbsup: actually sounds like you'd win now....6 months ago it would have been a different story. i've given away and thrown away almost half of my stuff in recent time. i sorta figure "i'll use it oneday" and keep it. must admit it has saved me thousands of $$$ over the years just having the spares there, and not having to pay a premium price at the wreckers (not to mention finding the parts). don't have as much room anymore :sad: must have a tidy up and further sort out soon. maybe we all should have a garage/boot sale/swapmeet or something?

should be fine. it will just be filtered compressed air.......unless you are running a drawthru carb setup.

watch out for all the bikers guys. sunday mornings would have to be busiest time of the week for motorbikes and cyclists. the cyclists are the ones to watch, riding up to 4 abreast. sundays are the worst day for a fun drive. the best times are during a weekday or at night.

actually i thought there wasn't that much stuff at all...... after moving and taking 5 loads to the dump (3 with trailer) i still have way more. i threw away over a dozen wheels and tyres alone. also got rid of a full trailerload of EH Holden parts i had. my ke10 is chock full of parts, just enough room to sit in the drivers seat. i have a trailer loaded with 2 engines, 5 gearboxes 3 diffs, and heaps of struts, suspension stuff and other gear under a tarp, flattening the trailer springs. also have a pallet piled with gear, not to mention heaps of other stuff still to be sorted already in my garden shed. i need to trim things down more, and stop collecting so much crap.

hehe, finally worked out how to change it. :insane:

wasn't me. :insane: was one of the mods or admins...........

pretty sad. i'm glad i'm to old for all that crap. feel sorry for you younger guys who due to style and peer pressure get caught up in it. personally, i could never get the idea of talking like some retard, and making retarded hand gestures, all the while looking like some retarded overgrown kid, in overgrown way overpriced clothes.

where abouts are you? if you are near Ipswich i have quite a few bits and pieces laying around.

you're welcome :insane:

no, other way round. stick the normal head on the dished bottom end and you have around 7.5:1....perfect for forced induction.

yup, with D shaped pistons it would be a 4K-U. i don't think i would run the dished head on a flat top bottom end. from memory you end up with something like 15:1 CR..... not good. it would probably run hot, ping like mad and blow another head gasket real quick. sorry, not what you want to really hear atm.

i realise they are huge, and an overkill. i was just thinking of ease of availability off LSD centres, appropriate gearing, and also longterm strength if Fook ever wanted to bolt in something ballistic. so you are looking at $1000 or more for a center, does that include gears? add a grand for your diff so far. geez not cheap for an LSD.

i'm not up with all the LSD's and such but, wouldn't it just be cheaper to get hold of a hilux rear with LSD and narrow it down for your car Fook? i'm sure you could pick out a decent ratio and have it cost way less than the equivalent one for your celica diff. not to mention it would be stronger for future mods.

check out this video. it is on the large size for dialup. awesome fun. they are running PVC piping or something like that for tyres.

i'm not really into fullsize drifting or the cars involved but: i want one of these :dance:

you can't get leaded petrol, unless you run avgas or racing fuel. LRP is really just unleaded with an anti valve recession agent. it seems to be getting phased out. to bad if you have an old car with soft valve seats, guess the government doesn't care if their engines flog out prematurely and pollute the environment more than they should.

the old cane toads are hardy things. i've seen one that had been run over, it's guts hanging out its mouth. about half an out later it sucked them back in and hopped off... :dance:

i spent a lot of time growing up on my grandfathers canefarm. he saw first hand the destruction cane toads can do. they almost totally wiped out goannas, and a lot of other animals. guess it was just another one of those political/scientific stuffups. they introduced them to wipe out the cane beetle, and they almost wiped everything else out but. this thread reminded me of this :dance:

you could always use the one from the manual car if it is still smooth. you can drive them out with some grease, one of the large bellhousing to block bolts and a big hammer (SST no1.). basically you fill the bearing and its cavity behind with grease (something thick like wheel bearing grease), and use the large snug fitting bolt and the hammer to drive the old bearing out. you just keep filling the cavity with grease to get rid of air bubbles, and keep trying to hydraulically drive it out. i have used this method several times and it works quite well. just make sure if you try it to use a set of pliers or something to hold the bolt. last time i did it i slipped and split my thumb open big time. not much fun with a 1kg hammer and having your hands covered with grease. :sad:

chilblains? lol