Felix

maybe the problem with the DGV, is a blown powervalve diaphram. i had this problem when i was running a 32/32DGV (think 24/25 mm chokes from memory) for a while last year, on a 4k. when the diaphram goes it makes the carb run hell rich, as it thinks it is at full load all the time. i wouldn't have realised except that i had just fitted an O2 sensor and a fuel mixture display. i found a 28/36 DCD weber gives much more stable AF readings than a DGV. i am still currently running my DCD on my warm 5k with 25/65 cam. the DCD gives awesome lowend throttle response with 25/ 27 mm venturis. the venturis are replacable in a DCD. the same carb ran really sweet on my previous 4k with 25/25 venturis. a 28/36 DCD will bolt straight onto a DGV adaptor plate. i wouldnt bother with a single side draft. i'd try to either find a decent downdraft setup, or go twin SU for a road car. or if it is a weekend competition machine go twin sidedrafts.

here the 4k-e ones were 16cc from memory. you would have to search oldcorollas under ke1x, about 4 years ago when i put my last dished 4k together.

no, you should be comparing it to 2.6 liter four strokes. not 1.3L.

a rotary is effectively a four cycle two stroke :S for every revolution of one rotor you have three combustion events. for each rev of a twin rotor it has 6 combustion events. for a 4 cylinder 4 stroke engine, you have 2 combustion events each revolution. so you need two revolutions to have four combustion events. so your 1300cc 13B rotary thinks it is a 2600cc engine as it fires twice as often as the equivalent swept volume 4 stroke engine.

wade 169 is a hyd cam. timing 41/70 75/36 291 degs dur .402/.403" lift at valve. wade 169s is a mech cam. 30.5/66 72/26.5 278/276 degs dur .396/.394" lift at valve

the 5k rods (from a later 5k) i compared were a little bigger than the ones from late 4ks. i have had them side by side with ones from both a 4k-u, and a 4k-e dished piston engines. identified from piston numbers.

1GGZ pistons have a 20 mm pin, pin height 32.5. ......NA 1Gs have 18mm pins, same pin height. K series have 18mm pin, 36mm pin height. to fit the 1GGZ pistons and rods correctly (to have any squish/quench to help prevent detonation), the 1G rods would have to be 3.5 mm longer. 5k rods are slightly different to 4k rods. a bit thicker across the beam, probably to deal with the extra piston mass. would be different part numbers.

you can do it reasonably easily, although it is not the most fun of jobs. making sure everything is clean before you start, makes life easier. using a block and tackle (or like) to raise the engine to allow more sump clearance helps alot. remove the 4 studs under the timing cover and replace with bolts while you have it apart. makes life easier if you have to drop the sump again in the car. with bolts, you only need to lower the sump half as much for t/cover removal. much easier to prepare another engine on a stand, and swap in at a later date.

for what you want to do, i would get hold of a 25/65 cam with 400 thou lift at the valve. with a port cleanup and valve job it should give you a strong wide powerband from 3000 to 7000+ RPM depending on the head type, induction and exhaust setup. if you keep your max revs to around 7500, you don't need to worry about balancing or larger valves or anything like that. you can also get away with factory springs running 400 thou lift. really you don't need any flash head, just make the most of what you have available as you can always skim the original to get up around your desired CR. this sort of level of mods will complement your twin downdrafts nicely. you could also go to a small weber if you are chasing better economy for a daily driver. if you already have a decent bottom end, i've found you only need to spend around $400 to put together a tough streetable engine, not including boltons. providing your valve guides are good, if you supply your head dismantled and cleaned, it should only cost around $100 for a skim and 3 angle valve job. add $100 for a cam regrind, and $200 for gaskets, seals, and incidentals.

:greenbounce:

17's are for sissies. :greenbounce:

ben, i'm interested in your engine. will have to see if i can take it out to my parents place or something first, as i don't have the room here.

hahaha....some more for your enjoyment

wait there's more......

i can tell a lot of you guys will get excited over this.....8 sec quarters.

speaking of tough T engines

in my favourite type of car

i love it...puerto rican style

why not? a healthy NA 2/3t should go well in a light ke10. i can see heaps of further potential. what do you want for your 2t? what is wrong with the bottom end? hmm, i need space.

maybe i should just stuff a 2t into my ke10 or something. :D

:D looks very much like mine. 2ts and 2tgs are quite different.

jamie, surely you should know that your head isn't a 3k-b head. it is simply an early 3k head off of either a single carb ke11 or a ke20. all the early 3k heads ke11/ke20 ones had bigports. proper 3k-b heads have water galleries for the twincarb manifolds, and are different from your head.

cool, thanks

thinking of maybe procuring a twin sidedraft manifold for a K series and trialling them on my car at a later date. that is providing that the mikunis share the same base pattern as webers.

another pic