tas_ae71

QUOTE: Whoever says the 4A-C is a pusbucket is mislead... nope its a pusbucket!!! to think, I'm UPGRADING to it... ;)

depends on your budget.. how much you want to spend. but i would go 5k or 7k no point convertion it to a 4ac, as they probaly only have 10 or so hp more than a 4k.. plus the expence of the cponversion it adds up as i am finding out. as i am doing this. its also hard to get your mits on somethings. chuck in a 5k, 5 speed and a webber and your set..

i brought a small tacho with internal shift light mine is set too come on at 5,000.... might have to set it a bit higher ;)

ah you ment a key banger ;) funny shit.. good for the zorst too..

blew flames?? bullshit!! must of been a angary cannon 33.2rwhp?? more like 33.2fwhp

mine has around 278 thousand, have only done about 6 thousand km's, it due for a service now. it dosent blow smoke or use oil, (leaks it insted) it might be down slightly on compression and is a bit rich i think. gose well though i recon it would easly make it to 350,000 might want rings and bearings by then but they last. i don't rev it over 5,000 as I'm on my dam L's and the passanger starts to yell as me, reconing I'm "over revving it" its only doing half its rev range i say.. on the topic of revving what can you "safely" rev these too? and what has people revved theres to without "i recon it was doing, cause i don't have a tachometer"?

but straight through would probaly sound like sex :P

exhaust without extractors wouldnt do much.. i would recomend putting some sort of a muffeler on, maybe a hi flow V8 one, should be fairly cheap, V8 stuff is these days compared to anything for a import!! I'm planning on a 2 1/4 plus a hi flow muffeler for my 4ac when i get it in. wont make a hell of a lot of diffrence but might give it a desent note.. also steer away from cannons, they are gay.. unless you have a lancer then they dobble the power just as the $1500 head unit did.

where about stock it? i use 95 octane fuel, the prevoius guy who ownd it only used regula (91 i think) and when me and my old man took it for a test drive it started to ping high up in the revs, i ALWAYS use premium and havnt had it ping since.. i have been using valve lub, but i wont bother anymore. less expence. what sort of price is fuel on the big island? in tassie went to fill up, our shitty permium was $1.49!!! on a good day

ah sorry, didnt realise there was 6 pages of discusion... only read the first

well from what i belive, there isnt much in the way of diffrences between a 4k and 5k exept for the extra 200cc. you would get slightly more toque and power but not $500+ worth i don't think. i know a guy with a ke70 only has a 4 speed. but he has put on a desent set of extractors and full exhust (now a webber) minor suspension work and a set of 15x7 wheels and that thing gose off its tits!!! personaly i would go with the 4k, they are a lot cheaper to replace if need be. if you where going to swap for a k series i would go for the bigger 7k. but as i said, healthy 4k with extractors and a carb or twin carbs, maybe a cam, wouldnt go too bad at all. may not get sideways in the dry but in the wet it would be all on. i think some peolple on here are a bit anti drift :P

they maybe be botteming out cause they are too soft. you should have stiff springs in!! love the harsh ride and arse braking when you hit a pot hole!!! i have stockies in with f@$ked shocks, going for quality of ajps, kyb and whiteline, i KNOW these are trusted brands. havnt every heard of any horror stories with these manufactours. my mate has a sprinta with some ajps springs and kyb shocks they work a treat. i would recomend kyb/whiteline shocks with white line uprated white line springs and swaybars..

yea the brakets arnt such a big deal, but its the pipes that can make life tricky... we put a diffrent radiator in a t-18 (our paddock basher) the pipes lined up but the brakets didnt, so we put bolts in one end and just wired up the other.. it was getto spec and i wouldnt do this to my actual car but it worked good, want much bigger than standard but it didnt leak and kept it heaps cooler..

thanks fellas question answered :P

thats 2 yeses... seems fairly surtian then...

i would of thought so, but this bloke who has a wheel that had been on a corona and fits a ra40 said he wasnt 100% about ke70

just wondering if a steering wheel that suits a ra40 and corona has the same spline as a ke70? i have been told that some one that they don't think so but want to make shoure... cheers aaron

if it splashes out when your filling, had this happen.. you need to not give it full gun when filling.. takes an extra 10seconds but beats having $2 of fuel running down the side of your car and all over the ground :lock_folder:

i thought most people perfured the early ke70 front.. thats why people brought them insted of ae71...

you should paint the headlight surounds black.. you don't have and t-series diff centres do you? or maybe some of those old skool crome rims? can always use a spare set.. by the way i have a t18 that is sorta going to be wrecked a lot of parts are well worn, if you are after anything drop us a line and we might be able to work something out. the engine gose (just) needs a rebuild badly. the box is still together but had jumped out of second after a masive clutch kick last time it was drivern. oh and it has been rolled.. there is a few straight panels and almost a spare complete engine that has been out in the weather for 6months minimum so it may not be much good exept maybe the block and crank... no diffs though like your project, i think you save a lot of money by buying a cheap compressor/gun. the bonus is it pays for itself and at the end you have a heap of tools for next time.. cheers keep up the good work

down hill touge lol not shoure about a ute.. would have a light arse.. might not be too bad if it was all one colour and painted with atleast presure packs (matt black would be the go) he he

best wishes on you special day... happy birthday, your 4!!! reads a very old birthday card :lolcry: what did you get?

what i ment was buy an off cut of perspex rip out your old one trace around it, then cut it out, drill some small holes, too easy and shouldnt cost more than a few $$ btw, are they actual glued in? mine wasnt when i took it out..

you might be able to get some new thin perspex to replace it all together.. insted of mucking aroung with old stuff..

rep the pro (me) :hammer: na it is slowly coming along nicely, it has the usual hachi rust, but it was needing a full restoration.. just takes time and patience... oh and money :lolcry: going to get into it flatout soon, as justin wants to try and get it back on the road by time he gets his L's.. can't blame him really i wouldn't want to have such a wikid car for 18months or so and not being able to really drive it when i actually got my licence.. better get some elbow grease into it.