tas_ae71

seriously, thats a crying shame

ok long time since i updated this thread, androo, they arnt 71 bumpers.. but from what i know, you take the steel part off, trim down the plastic cover that gose over the steel and reattach the plastic with zipper ties.. leigh, will get some descent pics soon mate.

i mean will 3mm raise it to around 9:1 etc?

yes, i brought a set of ma61 supra rims (14x7 +8) with the huge 235/big profile they hit on the spring cup, not the actual strut body with smaller tyres they more than cleared everything. if the sit nice on the back, it sounds like a tyre that is too big in the profile. 14x7 +8 offset rims with 195/60 tyres on a lowered 70 clear everything, sit alright no scrubbing issues. my other set of rims 14x7 with a -5 offset have scrubbing issues on the rear with 175 tyres on them, the rears have been lipped and don't scrap much now without weight in the back with the stocko springs cut reasonably low.

good buy mate. keen to see pics of the setup and more info on it..

how much would shaving the head/thinner head gasket change compression..?

i used fine mesh

smacko84, thats one tidy engine bay, did you convert it to 4ac from 4k? ae71/86's have the coil on the other side of the engine bay. i moved mine, they have the mounts alredy there. as for air filters, maybe get a slightly taller one, also flipping your air filter hat make a bit of induction noise. it isnt turbo so bents don't mean stuff all. a new filter should be enough for the stock carb, these little advantage in upgrading it yet. i have ran mine without a filter and it make a nice noise but no notice in power..

i thought the standard compression was 8.6:1 either way it is very low, yes shaved head and a thinner head gasket will raise compression. 4ac's are surposed to run on 97 octane fuel acording to my owners manual.

in my opinion a t-series would be more than strong enough to cope with the power of a standard 20V t-series came in local t-18 models in 2 version kouki and zenki, kouki coming in the seies 2 t-18 has slighly stronger axels than the zenki, lsd centres are available for both. the t-18 version of t-series came with drum brakes that with a freshen up will be good enough for most aplications. the jap spec disk brake t-series are much more expensive, the factory centres in them will probaly be warn, parts are harder to find for them etc..

yeah all c's are big.. twin 40mm side drafts, 10:1 comp (aiming for) want the motor to last as long as possible, is still going to be the daily. i figure the bottem end is going to be fairly bullet proof.. cam is a 290 degrees, rated from 3500/7500rpm extra .8mm of lift. I'm not sure about single cam profiles, is this big? want some bump in that idle i was more meaning what brand, acl etc..? but yeah i recon i will be going for chrome molly, they seem the go. i don't know you couldget cast rings. someone said that they are all about the same because they are all made on basicly the smae machines, made by diffrent companies but the same machines... so I'm not the only one :jamie: PM me with what you have done with yours.. intresting to hear your results

thats some desent side, very procise between the cones.. and fast

fair enough, but wouldnt you of been better off just using the 4af bottem end..? I'm happy to use the 4ac head, i have a cam for it and getting a 4af head will kind blow out the budget of the build.. what rings would people recomend?

yeah you can't modifiy a ae71 but you can own a n/a supra, rx-8 etc..? which are both very quick standard.. as well as many others

it only suck in that respect if you live in one of these ghey states that have this restriction law. to my knowledge (correct me if I'm wrong) brake/suspension/wheel upgrades are allowed for P platers.. wouldnt that be the way to go first..?

sounds like a good start mate, is it posible the carb is jetted for a bigger motor? my old 4ac with a stock carb would not idel, it would die at traffic lights etc. i was talking to another bloke who had the same problem. he put a reco kit threw the carb. it was about 65bucks i belive. is the idel set correctly? not too low...?

felix, i was thinking the same thing as you mate. but at a lowly $75 (buying from aus, us cheaper) it is very tempting to make the bottom end very strong in relating to a 4ac, but it will have a bit more compression than a bigport and it will be regularly taken to the nominated redline of 7500 (probaly more :)) just i think i would rather spend that little extra and have peice of mind that its only my head that can brake. yes i see what you mean, and being a few thousand revs over standard with the cam it will wear the springs quickly and 7500 is probaly ok with a stock motor for short periods of time but sustained hi rpms... darren, does the 4af head bolt straight on? or what is required to fit one? did you keep the carb or go efi? did you rebuild the bottom end with standard internals? so it looks like i will have to spend a few bucks on the head, not too much hopefully. what about valves? will the brake because of the faster and harder movements of the stiffer springs?

you can make it faster buy doing these little mods. extractors without an exhause isnt going to do shit, i dought it would make it breath easier until you got a whole exhaust. carb is definately worth it 32/36 webber are a cheap upgrade, adaptor plates are available from ebay but if you buy it from here it will probaly come with one. you can go faster without having more power, get suspension, brakes and some wheels while you are on your P's on a side note, your car will drift as it is in the wet altho I'm not encouraging street drift, it should be don't in a closed environments. do some reading into brake/suspension options available, there is HEAPS of stuff. I'm going to start into a 4ac build but i think that would go against your rules. also if you arnt able to do more of the work it can be very expensive, i know a few people who i can get stuff done on the cheap. if i had to pay someone to build the whole motor it would end up cheaper to buy a 4age... also you could if you get some savings up buy a lsd centre and buy a t-series diff these came in t-18's in 2 axel sizes so keep that in mind when buying an lsd, (need one for drift duh, much better than a welded diff )

i wouldnt need them heaps stiffer, a standard head will rev to about 7500 but i though stiffer or dobble springs would make it more reliable, as in last longer before braking? maybe? what rings would people surgets? edit: got a price from vpw website, $75 for a set of aps rod bolts.. but revving to 7500 I'm not 100% that they are nessesary. but then again it isnt much money to make the bottem end unbrakeable..

15x8 +15 wont hit the suspension you should be able to get a 185 tyre onto a 8" rim i have 14x7 -5 on the front of my 7o and there is no clearence issus. with them on the back with lipped gards they scrub still but i have cutties (cut springs) so they are very soft, stiffer springs at the same hight would be fine. i also have 175 tyres on them they arnt too strached so 185 on a 8" should be ace. if they guy at the tyre shop has any complaints about streching tyres tell him they are for racing use not street because streching tyres is actually illigel apparently

PM'd mosus can anyone shead more light on using dobble valve springs?

or a good quality spanner and hammer.. if you only take the box out it makes it rather tricky to line up the clutch if you don't have the tool or a old input shaft laying around. i would personaly pull the motor out myself as most people have recomended, i used a spare box without the bellhousing on it to line up friction plate, a sawn off broom handle can do the same job. just make sure its right, you don't want to have to pull it all out again if it isnt right.

yeah it is rather agricultural, thanks :y: but thats me, from the getto i am indeed using bigport rods. 4ac crank is heaps lighter so keeping that. less rotating mass=better another thing is valve clearence from the piston? the cam is claimed to have a extra .8mm of lift, with a shaved head and (most probaly a thin head gasket .8mm- .5mm) is there going to enough room there? don't want the valves to smash on the pistons and don't want to get them cut out or shit.. how do you do dobble valve springs? do you just put 2 standard springs on the one valve? thanks aaron

yes while a dead stock motor will far exede the redline (i had my old motor to 7500 or a bit more once) they don't last too long at these revs as joash (<<r2blinky>>) will agree with me. i want it to do it all day long as they say. a strong motor that isnt going to brake as quick. yes I'm very keen to get it built, should be quick for a old banger 4ac, probaly the most redical N/A tuned 4ac on the planet :y: I'm so sad yes indeed yeah i have heard of those. by your forum name i asume you would rather spool over revs, correct? i don't belive that with the setup i was looking at, the power figures would not be much more than i will get n/a tuned. this is going to be much cheaper than turbo too. the turbo option would make it a pig to drive, attract more attention run like a 3 legged dog choking on fuel until it came on boost and took off like something gone silly. this is getting away from my original questions, as i said I'm don't need peoples opioions I'm more after answers. i did see those rod bolts on ebay america, would rather buy in australia much less stuffing around and i don't have a credit card. its too much hassel buying from other counties. i have got parts from japan, was a nightmare trying to deal with the banks. on the plus side i now have a contact who i can deal direct with, who can sorce any parts i want.

no, no turbo. this is an n/a build. turbo was going to be too expensive and i much rather revs over spool.. hoping themotor will be able to rev to 7-7.5 reliably, the bottem end should be ok with this just need to do more to the head. the cam i have is rated to make power from 3500-7500 i figured with the combination i have i sould ge able to get simerla power to the setup that i was going to get with turbo exept more reliable and better power delivery, much less attention, than wwsssssss ptch