tas_ae71

yeah thats why i only spoke of near accsedents.. where technicaly i wasnt braking any laws... none of the above was intentional

i have a 32/36 weber on my 4ac and it could really use so proper sized jet in it. i have tuned the mixture screw as best as i can (almost all the way to lean) but its still rich on idel and seems to be lean up in the revs. i think themmain jets (ones that get you going) are fairly close on the primary but the idel jet is too big and so are the jets on the seconady :locked: unfortunatly i really can not afford to have the carb rebuilt (it could probaly use it) and rejetted. something quite intresting was i was reading a 'toyota performance handbook' it had a ta22 with a 20R motor, it said that it was balance, extractors, cam increased cmpression and it only had a 32/36 i thought that this would have been a litle undersized for a worked engine of this capacity.

zing casey you just you owned!!

alot of short strokes shock don't make the spring fully captive although the do help and work better than normal stroke shocks. if your concerned about the heat of cutting use a hack saw, causes much less heat. i have used cut standard springs with standard shocks and have not had a spring fallout how ever this is a possibility especaly with stiffer springs if short stroke shocks are not used. RCA's (roll centre ajusters) grately help to restore suspension geometary reducing bump steer. also if you have a really low car cutting the bump stops down a little isnt a bad idea but remember to leave some therr. cut springs in a paddock basher..? too much effot and you want the clearence..

i drive/drift a hell of a lot better knowing its only me in the car and not any passengers. i know you whernt saying that i was not able to drift properly and i do not claim to be any DK either. yes a ke70 is very diffrent to a ke20 or 35. 4k is newer and usually a little more power, the suspensions is quite alot diffrent too. as i said i don't want to hurt myself, my car or anyone else so when i do deside to drift i do it in a enviroment as safe as i can short of the track. i use industrial areas out of business hours so there is usually only one way in and out. there are nice corners, road has good surface and has sloping gutters should i mess up. this provides the opotunity to have a real crack with quite a bit of speed once you are able to do as much as you can at lower speeds without the worry of cliffs, gutters, people, cars etc. you can also try diffrent techniques. 2 example of my drifting experiences saving my stupid skin. it was wet and i was driving to my mates place and i was aprotching a right hand corner. i started to slow down for the corner and i down shifted to 3rd then 2nd missing the accselerator and compression locking throwing the car sideways. i put on a little power countersteering into the apex and straitend it up.. i was sliding sideways 50 meters before the apex. i was shocked and suprised by what happened i wasn't really thinking about it and didn't intentionaly do it. most peole would of ended up the island in the middel of the road or up the gutter. would of been a sight to see although i will not try it again as i didnt try it the first time. about 4 days ago i was driving a long a back road. i was doing a fair speed 80 or so had just got the car going well and was givving it a run. extatic about the way it was performing i forogt how sharp one of the corners where and hard braking and throwing it back some gears i managed once again to comp lock 3rd this time. with my lights shining at the inside fence that i was pointed at i gave it a touch of brake to transfur the weight foward and giving small counter steer to quickly bring it back. i have plenty more stories but i will save them for another day..

at the end of the day its upto you what you do, no one can really stop you. do you think its possible to drift with basicly a stock car with 12kwatw on a open track with a hotmix surface...? no but you are able to do motorkanas and the like which is low speed. edit: also depends on where you live as to whats availalbe... there are drift practace days in tassie about once a month at the other end of the state on a track that requires more power to do anything than i currently have. the track thats close to me does not allow any drifting other than the very occational organised driftdays. its also quite expensive but that cost may pay off if your stupid and crash your car all the time from going over board and exeeding yours and your cars level.

as i said in a SENSIBLE place, i didnt say on the street.. if you must do it on the street then do it where there is no chance of you hitting someone else so its only yourself that gets hurt, i.e. not in towns where there are people.

I'm not sure why everyone says an open centre is unpredictable..?? i don't seem to have any troble. it seems that a locker is preferable but when your not actualy getting a lot of wheel speed when you sliding (low power) it dosent seem to make as big of a diffrence. maybe my technique is diffrent to everyone elses? i do not belive with how my car is at the moment a locker would make it slide any better. i can power over in the dry with a bit of speed if i wish, or slider properly. you will also find that with cut springs they transfur weight alot, with low poer you can make this work to your advantage buy steering out and turning in hard toward the apex of the corner. as you turn in this is the time to pull the handbreak. you will need it to lock the wheels but only for a fraction of a second, put the power all the way on and countersteer. your countersteering angle should be less than in the wet because there is more grip. you should also countersteer slower in the dry or you will not hold the slide and it will snap back if you pile on the counter steer (this is when you hit that pole etc). practace makes perfect, do it some where sensible. grab a copy of drift bible, if i had seen this it would of helped me out when i was first starting. it can be done quite easly without a locked diff. a locked diff also makes it a real paint for everyday and grip driving.

kyb make quality shocks... i sell budget rear ajustable shocks for ae86 but they are short stroke and if the car isnt low enougb you would run into problems

oh that is indeed sick

I'm out

oh zing there was some crusty crap on there which i cleaned most of it off... heheh. i asume you can buy this at most junky electronics stores. it seems to run alright so i must of got all the wires arond the right way.. :locked:

my 4k-c wouldnt do a burnout in the dry.. i only tryed once. if you want to dwitp it get some 8&6kg springs, it will add heaps of points to you rep

eeerrrr yeah one day i surpose... next time a put in another motor i will paint the engine bay, spot weld the rails and strut towers etc, probaly tidy some of the wiring and get some of that cover stuff. problem is when i put the frst motor in i was kinda rushed and just used bits of wire that i found from the donor car ;) the new wire i made up from new wire. also have some ajustabe rear oil shocks and some TRD 6&4kg springs which should suit my setup nicely. just need front shocks and hte est of the brake setup (rotors, wheel bearings)

**update** now have a 32/36 weeebah upgraded to a electric dizzy as of yesterday. gose alot better with a stronger spark to bur all that over rich fuel mixture. still have same old shitty susy, brought some 14x7 -5 cheviots, 2nd 4ac is still running while the ol T-50 gets more and more grumpy....

you can use the front calipers on the right size disks but you have to get a custom bracket made and you maybe limited to what wheels you can use i.e. 14/15's etc

sorry?? i took that cover off to check which wire was whichthan put it back on. i use some little auto clips to conect to the orginal plug. i have got it running and it gose sweet, the stronger spark help to burn the over rich fuel. excuse the messy juble of wires.

yeah you should be able to do it in a standard ke70... i could in me 4ac ke70 with a blown head gasket.... just cut springs and open diff

I'm 99.99999% sure it wouldnt be the carb icing because i have driven when the car was under a 1cm of ice an upto the snow... does it during the day too. being the design that the 4ac is, the exhaust being bolted to the intake manifold i belive this would keep some sort of heat in the carb. other people don't have this rpobelm, when i have borrowed a mates t-18 is hasnt had a problem. I'm hoping that this new ignition will fix the problem but I'm worried that its a damaged/worn ring.

excellent, thanks a lot mate. thanks for your help... edit: just have to make up some wires and time it and should be crankin sweet

casey i thought you where a newbie..? na just kiddin your a real hard core ke junky....

i more meant a run out the sidling ;) if I'm not working on Wednesday ill come

eeerrr whats this black thing..? I have the electric type coil and the dizzy. What does this thing do..? does it increase the voltage from the coil? or can it just be bypassed (i.e. not really needed)?

don't have a standard air hat, so no turning it to winter mode. what i ment was it seems to run slightly better when the water temp is higher..

is it possible that because i don't currently have a thermostat that because it is running too cold its afecting it? making it miss?? i noticed when it was upto operating temp that it seemed to run well but a little further up the road when the temp dropped again it seemed to miss like a barstard again. i have brought a new thermostat, just need to get my thermo fan working again so i can put it in.