tas_ae71

a few weeks ago i had to go threw about 300km's of mostly winding roads and hills etc and when i stopped to fill up it took about 20L, thats with an exhaust and weber on a 4ac. with the new cam I'm using seem to be using alot more, as you need more revs and a lower gear to get the thing to move. got 220km (highway) from about half a tank.

i would recomend either bridge stone potenza's (grid 2 or 3) or yokohama c-drivers, I'm not sure what sizes yokies come in for 15". maxxis=arsebag pirelli dragons..?? i have never used them put i had some p6000's in a 195/50 and they where absolute rubbish, on par with sava intenzas (also very shit) best 15" tyre i have used where cheaper yokahama advans, they where progressive, very good grip, and lasted quite a while (a 50+lap track day, hills driving, drifting, daily) and they wher 40% when i got them :n: not sure how much they are new or whata modle they where. also yeah a 195 in 50/55 profile. atleast get 7" wide anyless is for girls. these prices smell like rat to me, i think he is takaing you for a ride as they say.... a wheel balance is only as good as the person using the machine, old machines can be very accureate, just if the oporator is lazy and dosent take a little extra time to get it spot on then yeah... i worked at good year and if it was within 5grams then it was considered alright, within 10 grams and you put it on the rear was what one old gy used to do, id do it properly aang get it within about 2 grams (out of round wheels can muck up the reading).

another option which i have went for is spacing the back of the bonnet up with a few thick washers and some longer bolts. surposed to help with cooling and add to the overall theame of my car. it also isnt permanant so if you don't like it then you take the washers out or add them to get the look you want.

teddy, if your looking mentioning the theroys of sam Q then you also know what he has said about it being a much harder way aswell. fe heads have wakk cam gears, one gear drives off of another making adajustable camgears more difficult and harder to tune as when you change the belt driven cam the gear driven one would change aswell.. as well as basically no aftermarket support other then ome for the head. cam have to be custom ground etc. another thing you may do to increaasae power on a alow budget is buy a megasquirt ecu kit. it come in peices and you have to solder up the ecu then depending on how handy you are with electronics wire it into the loom. you can download standard maps for most motors so you can keep driving it, then get it profesionally tuned. you may actually get enough power to notice with this mod! please not that its not hard to build one of these as far as figuring which bits go where but it is a little tight so you have to be fairly precise with the solder. i would also recomend the exhaust (does open mid-topend power) and pod filters are so cheap these days. you can get an average spec pod for around the same price as a paper pannel filter. also making it duct cold air might be a very cheaap way you can havae a play around with it and get a small gain.

PM me i have one ill sell you.

yes they have timing belts but it would have to be fairly loose or very worn for it to skip teeth. guy with mulitpl ke's: i forgot to replate that heat sink stuff, i mistakenly cleaned it off when i was putting it in and had forgot to buy some to replace it. luckly i havnt had anything melt yet and its been nearly 12months. i do live in a cooler climate than zmit though. 20btdc is still a little high, are you sure that its not running overly rich (hence why it wouldnt be pinging like a 16yo on eggies). also you did time it with the vaccume advance disconected and at idle speed? higher revs make the timing advance even with the advance mechanisum dissconnected which would give a faulce reading. oh and the interior, i brought a car a while back and that had random bits painted red i was most dissapointed with the pervious owner, but each to there own. you probaly wouldnt like mine.

4ac's have an electric choke. are you sure it waa as far as 40btdc thats a hell of a long way, if it didnt ping a lot then it would make no power.

i see, have you got a timing light so you can see exactly what its at? the cap/button arnt exsessively worn? since changing from a points dizzy to a ae82 electric one i havnt had any issues. when the timing is set correctly 5-10 btdc (std is 5 i run mine at 10). will it start at all or is it very recluctant to? i know with the old points distributors they had resistors, when starting it would skip the resistors for full current for starting then it would change to the normal running mode at a lower current for normal running. i don't know that the electric system has this. def no auto retarding that i have ever seen on my motor, only time it retards itself is when the advance closes and the timing returns the normal. just had a look at your page, dude painting bits of your interior=gayness

I'm not sure of your machanical knowledge so figured it better be safe and explane in detail

i don't know aboout an auto retarding system. there is whats called a vaccume advance which is a line that gose from the carb to the distributor. fairly much every motor has some sort of advancement system so as the throttle and load increases them timing advances more so it creates more power to suit the conditions, without this it has whats called a locked power curve. its unlikely for the timing to just change without you playing with the distributor (moving it) or the bolt that prevents it from turning/adjusting near the base of it is loose. even if the timing is several degreese out it should useually still run even if its like crap, not just stop and not go again. when tracking down a problem like this think of the 3 things that are needed for combustion air, fuel and spark. unless someone has put a carby it would be getting air. remove the top of the air filter push open the chock flap and shine a torch down it so that you see the throttle butterfly (the round gold coloured bit down the bottom). ensure the accselerator pump is working buy opening and closing the throttle, (get someone to step on and off the accselerator without cranking the motor). if you see a jet/mist of fuel spray out then its working correctly and it should be getting enough fuel to atleast run or splutter. an easy way to check that you have spark in your ignition system is to remove a ignition lead from the spark plug and holding the end of it with a rag or soemthing to insulate it (it will give you a unplesant shock otherwise) carefully pull the boot back up the lead so that the metal part is exposed. get someone to crank the motor for a few seconds while you hold the metal part close but not quite touching to somewhere with a good earth like a lifting hook on the motor. if you see a blue/purple spark "jumping the grap" then you have spark. if both of these are working correctly than remove a sparkplug or 2 and check there condition and colour. but it would seem to be something else if it was going fine and just stopped. try these few thing and tell us what is and isnt happening.

i don't know of any kits but people use custom r13 set-ups.

ah i wouldnt say that side drafts arnt good on fuel... a mate of mine had a 4ag with side drafts and that got as good economy as std efi 4ag's good luck with it i hope it works out.

offset dosent effect the speedo. if the rolling diameter dosent change than it dosent matter how wide the tyres are or how large the wheels are as far as the speedo accuracy is concerned. some people like to ride in a car that feels like a bed of pillows, i wouldnt think than lower profile tyres "ruin" the ride if you still have the soft standard suspension. for example i have just went back to 14"s from 15"s with 195/50 tyres and i have 8-10kg front springs. that produces a rough ride but if they where with softer springs there wouldnt be an issue. lower profile tyres on larger diameter wheels doesnt make them wear faster, if they scrub on your gards obviously they will cut into them. in which case you may need to get your guards rolled or you have got too much offset on the wheels. adding track, smaller profile, wider rubber wider wheel all add to a positive change to the handling as you will feel it more stable, sharper feel, less tyre roll and ofcorse with wider rubber generaly there is a reduction in stopping distance. don't forget that no matter what wheels/tyres you buy get desent quality tyres as even with std wheels this can make a desent change. generaly the more you pay the better you get. steer clear of the crappy manufactors such as sava, dark horse,clear, (don't even consider recaps), job jane brand, "quality" etc. yokahama generaly have good value for money but other respected manufactorus like bridgestone, michelen etc. i have managed to ramble on quite a bit, hopefully this does answer other questions you have and give you some food for thought.

swapping jets etc shouldnt be an issue, don't forget that although the bike motor may of only been 750cc it also would have quite high compression and would rev to 12-16k or more. just a quick question, what is that thing that gose from between the carbs and underneath them? kinda look like a electrical connection, which if it is you may run into problems.

i would imagin that would be fairly close. i was considering the quad bike carb option but after some research and talking to other bike guys i figured that a pair of side drafts would be a lot simpler, easyer to tune, you can buy manifolds for some motors and they are bigger. compare them to a pair of 40mm side drafts.... just my 2c anyway

thanks for the replys. no I'm not planning on revving it too much as its my daily so i keep it under 6k so valve bouncing shouldnt be too much of an issue. with a std cam i have had them at 7500 without them bouncing with a pre flogged motor. also wanting a little more lift out of this motor, its my 3rd 4ac. when I'm a little more financial i may rebuild one with more comp that will rev a little higher, higher tention springs will drfinately be going in then. i didnt get the cam ground myself and i don't even know who did so asking him is out of the question. it was an impulse buy about 6months ago. there where other people intrested in it and i got in quick and get it fairly cheap. i don't even have anything to measure the lobes with to get an acurate indication to the amount of lift it has compared to std. i don't really know any person who would have one. i could drive it to the machanics and they could do it there its only a 5min drive. without much income spending is very limited so buying tools is out of the question at the moment.

hi, just replaced another 4ac, it has a rattle in the head which i belive most probaly is just tappets. i have a reground cam that I'm planning to put in at the same time as i replace the old timing belt (kill 3 birds with one stone). the cam has 290 degrees of duration and extra lift on the exhaust valves and about the same on the intake. i fitted it to an old head to look at the difference in lift. questions: -how do i know if the valve springs bind or what can i do to prevent them from doing so? will the std springs be fine? how likely is it for them to bind without wild amounts of lift although there is noticeably more on the exhaust side than std. -how nessesary is toquing the bolts for the cam bucket correctly as i don't have a torque wrench? -after some searching i found that the std (hot) clearance for a std cam is .008" inlet and .012" exhaust. would this be the same for the bigger cam and are these figures correct? -is it possible to get a cold clearance? as by time i have swapped the timing belt over and get everything reassembled it will be cold? also i would rather not be working on a hot motor. thanks

your key should always to turned to the on position..?? or do you mean it stalls and you have to crank it to start it again? you may just have to adjust the idle screw on the carb as it maybe a little low? the 4ac engine has a tendancey to have problems idling with old buggered standard carby's i have not had one (out of a few motors) that has worked correctly. please give more info not 100% clear on exactly what the problem is..???

compession lock up.....?? you don't mean the drifting technique right.. because that has nothing to do with the engine or compession or locking

quite possibly, they do tend to specialise in V8 engines.

I'm not sure about differences in turbos petrol engines have less emissions i think, hence the same size petrol engine wouldnt come onto boost as early. just make up a simple j-pipe from the stock manifold... there is a guy here in tassie who has a turbo 4k in a ke35 (i think :lolcry:). seems to make desent power from what i have heard, his was quite a bit of work to put together. probaly the hardest bit would be making a pressure sealed box for the carby or alternate forms of getting around the down side of being carby.

on the side you will find one screw that controls the minimum amount of throttle i.e. your idel, close by you will see anoth screw which gose into near the base of the carb, it should have a spring wound around it, this is the mixture screw. spark plug gap is in the owners manual and or under the bonnet, i forget what its supposed to be.

FS: series 1 t-series blown centre, incl hand brake cables, otherwise complete eoi northern tassie

jdm guy, your in the US bud, you have a lot more after market support, there is very little in australia appart from genuine toyota. kickn5k, that actually sounds quite poor power to me.. considering that it sounds like a quite highly tuned 4L!! i mean there is a sr20det in Australia that puts out 1000hp (750kw), thats stroked to 2.2 from memory. my point is that if your that worried about the price of fuel then sleeve it stock. keep the stocko 5K on the gas. instead of spending money on an engine conversion/modification, put that aside for fuel..? none of us like paying for fuel but an decrease of economy is nateraly going to happen when you start modifying. i also thing that you would find a std 4ag very good of fuel, better than a carby 5k. i worked at a garage that did gas conversions and the guy with years of experience said that no way would he run his own car on gas. maybe he is sick of going slow so he wants to start with something better if he wants that sort of power. i can't really see a 5k being capable of putting out a reliable 200hp.

i don't know how much room you have, i know you said you would liek to stay 4cyl and toyota, but what about a 12a turbo or n/a 13b? they are fairly compact and lightish. sort of thinking that it would fit well into your engine bay and this seems to be a reasonably common conversion into early ke's. 2tgue is definitely the pick over a 5k on paper. it has twin cam, extra 100cc, bolts to a t-series box (t-50 stronger than k box's). down side is that they arnt too common of a motor so getting a motor aswell as parts is going to be a bit more difficult, although if you have the part numbers you can probaly just order them threw a local toyota dealer. if your looking for that much extra power when tuning 200kw is a long way from 150kw... for example with 4ag's its relatively easy to get 150kw but 200kw is quite a few more $$ so the power output will depend on your budget and the motor you start from obviously. other options to consider, 3sge/t, local 2tg (carby), 2tg/2tc hybrid (2tg twin cam head on a 3tc bottom end making it 1800cc then turboing that?) don't forget the weight of the motor, how is that going to effect handling, more weight and the further foward it gose the more you upset the balance of the car. a local guy put a V6 commo motor into a ke35? its fairly fast in a straight line but it has far too much weight over the front end. something that is kind of conflicting, why do you want to run it on gas..? if your turboing it then your economy goes to shit usually.. you also get more power from running it on fuel. if your such a tight arse that you putter around on gas but want to spend thousands and still run it on gas doesn't make sense to me. i can see that you as the rest of us don't like putting your hard earned into the tank sometimes i really wish my rolla used much less fuel than it does, i even blocked off the secondary in the hope to conserve fuel...