tas_ae71

sick as, you have it running! want some pics that i can actually see.. phone=lose

I'm very happy to see someone actually doing this, modding the firewall and moving the motor back! i don't know why more people don't do it especially for all of these track only cars that are getting around.

design a one off cnc'd head if your that passionate about it. once you have the car sorted as far as handling goes, a few "simple" bolt on mods will probaly keep you happy for a while while you have something screwing together on a engine stand.. the biggest issus with most single cam heads is the fact that they tend to be non cross flow. look at t-series motors for example, 2tg (1600cc twin cam) and 3tc (1800cc pushrod) both have near identical ports and are both cross flow. there isnt that much performance difference between them because of the head. it is common to put a 2tg head onto a 3tc bottom end as the head bolts on and the water/oil galleries line up. putting a 4ag head onto a 4k block is like going to maccus and trying to drink your coke with a chip. with a lot of careful work you maybe able to hollow out the chip to that you can suck the coke threw it but why do that when there is a straw that came with the coke? point being is that its a wakk idea. if you want twin cam go into the 1600cc class, its not exactly a huge step up and what are you going to be competing with? also what car is this going into? the lighter the better obviously. do you have a power figure in mind that you want to achive?

right, thanks for clearing that up. i thought that i had to use the ke20 hub... cheers.

oh just thought of something, wanting to keep the stud pattern 114.3, the rear has been converted or swapped for another diff already. don't want to go back to 108 or what ever the eairly size was.

thanks phife, thats what i wanted to know.. no i don't have any pictures lindsay, it was a circuit car before, it going to be used as a drift car not so brakes arnt really a worry, besides the ke55 stuff is going to be an upgrade from ke20... also it is very budget (the car isnt actually mine) so money is only going to be spent where need be. engine sitting in the shed for it is a jap bigport (7rib bigger bearings) got it for a steal, set-up for RWD. thanks si, ill ask casey. i still need the bearing/hubs for ke10/20 by the sounds of it..

yes they are unless early flat front ke70 is different to later ke70 its all the same gear. exception is the ae71 panel van which had larger brakes (adm sprinter?)

check the state laws, its illegal to change the wheel size more than 1-2" I'm alot of states without engeneering. so if your in an area which you would get defected then this maybe an issue. if you have stock hight suspension you could fit huge 17/18" wheels under it, and lift it another cople of inchs making it look like a monster truck.. as for guard flaring, yes you bash the f@$k out of the guards evenly then bog, sand, primer and paint them.. ofcorse they are going to look mc arse if you have paint chipped out, un smooth edges etc.. duh

hey, i have a ke20, it to my knowledge has the standard struts in it but no hubs/brakes at all up front (had volvo 4 spots but previous owner removed these). i have some spare ke70 struts. from which i can get bits. there are a few guys around who have some ke55 bits aswell, who i could probaly get bits from if need be. what can i bolt onto these struts? a few people have said that ke55 stuff will bolt straight up..? is this true? if so which callipers because i think there maybe two different versions? also on a side note will falcon spring fit these ke20 struts? my search didn't satisfy my questions. thanks.

either way its cheap...

my mate was drifting his car and undered into a gutter, we thought he bent the lca, can't remember if it actually ended up being bent or not but yeah, we replaced it. it had moved the castor rod around a little so we also replaced that also and it was still pulling hard one way so we got a wheel alignment and was all good. if it doesn't appear bent and is just pulling herd to one side, try getting a wheel aligner to check and adjust the castor. he will soon tell you if something is up or not.

what about a whole diff swap to something a little stronger? the auto version had a lower ratio than manual ones correct??

bah, they where junk wheels. i still have them, trying to get hold of some used semi slicks and ill put a pair of them on some. all the rest will be rotated around the back for skid duties..

if you want low end chugging power and want to stick with a toyota A-motor, go 4agze set-up with short duration bigger lift cams with 7a bottom end. wont rev like like the 20v will have bucket loads of toque down low compared to the std stilver top. or you could go for something like a 1uz which will bang the tyres off at idle with it huge amounts of axle breaking toque. id like to think that a 20v would be more than enough to pull a ke55 around. it should have enough zip down low to drive it like a normal car around town, to work everyday etc. when you want to over take, have a thrash, just smash it back a few gears and actually use some of the revs, as long as you have a motor that hasnt had the absolute guts mashed out of it, driving it like this it should have a very long life still. should only have engine life problems if your bang it on the limiter constantly and or do not do proper maintenance on it.

way i was told to adjust them was: have the motor running, pull up the handbrake, push on the foot brake, relise the hand brake relise the foot brake.... or maybe its the other way around... dunno but my hand brake dosnt lock that well anymore, too many drifs

it doesnt have a cat, that is a resonator. just remember not to spend money apart from if you need to put fuel in it.

i thought this was a paddock basher? cut off the rusted ends and weld it on, you only need like 1M of exhaust just so you don't get gassed or catch something on fire in the engine bay oh plus it will sounds loud and shit

convert it to run on shit... seriosuly there was some old shit heap how some guy had a barrel type thing and he would fill it with fresh cow manure, leave it for a few hours to fester and build some pressure then he would drive it around. that would be a experiment

take the cover off of the air filter, the choke is the metal flaps at the top of the carb barrel. if it is sticking shut then the wires maybe disconnected or the electronic shock mechanisum maybe shagged.

fair enough, mine runs a little too cold on the highway at night at times

a bigger and newer radiator? could be a cheap alternative to getting one re-cored.. my radiator is mc'shit and it gets hot, even in the cold tassie weather. the little fins are disintegrating so ill be looking for a upgrade soon. i also have a thermo fan on it. you might want to have it on a switch, so that it warms up faster on start up, the faster the motor gets upto temp the better. doesn't matter what the gauge says if you can hear it boiling it hot! a high pressure cap will also help to raise the boiling point, as to buying the concentrate coolant and mixing it to the strong mixture. do not mix it stronger than recommended because this can actually reduce the cooling effect. when i flush my radiator i run water threw the radiator until its clean. don't forget to crank your heater as well when running the flush.

yeah, looks grate, i dunno why more people don't buy t-18's

yeah dude, 4ag exhaust ports are on the wrong side.. been asked may a time :D

yeah, i 4age conversion can look very much like stock, because all the mounts are factory ae71/sprinter items... sprinter struts with jdm brakes, bolt straight in. if you feel like splashing more cash, a factory rear disk brake set-up. if/when you get aftermarket springs paint them black before installation. buy a lsd centre (zenki) grab a rear swaybar and the mounts to the chassis from a ke70/ae71 than weld on some mounts to your diff. convert to rack and pinion steering (bit of work) or adjust your lock stops (see tech section i made a post on how) to get more lock. exhaust, well any upgraded exhaust will be louder in 99.99% of cases. a plain sports muffler (and larger pipe) shouldn't look too obvious. fold up the inner lip of the guards (the part that joins the inner and the outer together) for extra tyre clearance but no change to the way the lines look. or if you must flare them, don't go crazy and try and keep to smooth flowing lines. stockies have no where near enough offset imo plus widened steel wheels are stupidly heavy, maybe for a commo that wouldnt be so bad but on a lighter car....

my uncle has at one in his speedway car, probaly look around the racing websites? you can probaly do a custom job. I'm not sure how "legal" they are, but if its outta sight then you may get away with it.