tas_ae71

my uncle has at one in his speedway car, probaly look around the racing websites? you can probaly do a custom job. I'm not sure how "legal" they are, but if its outta sight then you may get away with it.

does anyone think this is good enough to add to the tech section?

how would the sidedrafts handle the boost? are you saying that you wouldnt have to make up a box like you did simon for your weber?

might have to buy a pipe bender and do a run of them.. whos keen?

sweet, i was talking to a guy who has an exhaust shop about extractors and he is looking into them for me.

spja doesn't sell T3 any more because david was not an official distributor, there is not an official distributor who deals specialises in corolla stuff so he has discontinued the product line up and stuck to cusco etc. i haven't had any bad reports with the camber tops, some of the other products had a bit of a grey cloud about them but i did not ever have a customer report back that they had a faulty anything.

walls: you simply have to adjust the steering wheel position, i.e. either disconnect the steering shaft from the rack or take your steering wheel off and put it back on so that its straight again.

see you all there tomorrow

some pics added

added in there :)

you notice that the filter is in the engine bay yeah? like $6 from supercheap or something...

if you know any older V8 guys, they usually have the contacts :)

i had rust coming threw in mine, they had previously just been bogged over and painted very dodgy.. i cut it out and welded a new piece in, then bogged primered and painted. in your case best option is probaly to get a fiberglass repair kit and patch up the holes from the inside? be sure to strip all the oll rusted flakes out with a wire wheel first ofcorse and have a descent surface for bother the bog and the fiberglass to stick to i.e. don't shine up the metal with the wire wheel because stuff wont stick as well to it. its not the ideal way to fix it but it should hold out for a few years if you do it properly.

fair enough, good effort. keep us posted with your results.

this is a general guide for corollas, i don't have much experience with earlier pre ke70's so information may or may not be compatible with your model. you can always have a look at your steering system to see if its the same as mentioned in this artical. **disclaimer i and rollaclub do not take any responsibility for defects, failures etc. some modifications maybe illegal for street use and care should always be taken when working on steering systems.** ae86 -ae86 powersteering arms/knuckles -lock spacer ke70/ae71 -ae86 powersteering arms/knuckles (use with t-18/ae86 strut upgrade) -lock spacer -sprinter rack t-18 -ae86 powersteering arms (provides quicker steering only lock stops may need to be fitted) -adjusted/modified lock stops ma61 supra (may also include early soarer and cressida) -adjusted lock stops (caution steering rack lock) -lock spacer ke55 and earlier see the t-18 as it is the only one i have listed with a steering box, all ke55 and earlier have steering box systems as far as I'm aware. EXPLANATION ae86 powersteering arms (for use with ae86/t-18 struts)- these are simply a shorter version of a manual steering arm. bolt in replacement. the standard rack ends should have enough adjustment with use of standard control arms. wheel alignment is a must after installation, so book one before you do the installation. looks like factory ones, shouldn't have anyone pick-up that its not an original arm. one effect that most people like and or even do the conversion for as that it quickens up the steering dramatically. which is not always best for highspeed cars and will increase steering effort a little. lock spacers- there is both a slip on and screw in version, they basically do the same job. it allows the rack to move further as you are effectively lengthening it. these are definitely illegal for street use, the screw in type is the safest bet. slip on lock spacers are cheap as chips around $30? the cheapest way of getting extra lock for most rack equipped cars. ae86 rack (for ke70/ae71)- just put sprinter/t18 struts in and noticed you have even less lock than standard? pain in the arse isn't it? well a sprinter rack could be a good way for you to get standard sprinter lock. for most a pair a powersteering arms my do the trick but you don't want the increase turning speed. another conversion witch looks like a factory job. adjustable/modified lock stops- lock stops are little bolt like thinks on the steering arm and they have a stopper on the LCA. this is the cheapest way to obtain more lock as in most cases its virtually free. i have seen lock stops which can be adjusted with a spanner and other that are fixed. for those lucky enough to have adjustable ones, you simply loosen the locking nut and wined the bolt like lock stop in until the desired amount of lock is archived, repete on the other side. for these with fixed ones, grab out the grinded and cut small amounts off of the stop until your happy with it, remember don't go crazzy as you can't put the metal back without a welder. keep reading down to see the negatives and thing to watchout for!! NEGATIVES WITH THE ABOVE AND THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR powersteering arms- makes the steering a lil heavier (mostly parking) and also the cost of them (around the $180 mark more for new ones) lock spacers- perhaps the most dubious of all methods mentioned, i haven't heard of any personal failures with these but just be careful when putting them in. i would recommend the screw in type over the slip on type, costs more but is the better way in my opinion. ae86 rack conversion- biggest problem is probaly finding a rack that's in descent condition, they tend to go from $60-150. rebuilding them is a possibility lock stops- for models with rack (ma61 etc) be sure that you don't dial in too much lock that the steering rack locks. this is where the steering rack goes as far as it can, past the point that the steering arm is inline with the rack or it may jam on full lock with could be quite a consern when parking or drifting. for both the above and steering box equipped models. be sure that there isnt too much lock so that the wheel foul on the inner guard/chassis rails. i have seen 2 tyres cut in half because the tyre had grabbed the chassis rail. more offset wheels help this, but please keep this in mind when adjusting the lock. if you have your negative offset track wheels with your low profile track slicks on and you set it for this, then you put your street wheels with less offset/bigger profile tyre it may foul. when swapping to another control arm (corona/sigma) you probaly want to weld on your old stopper that on the control arm (corona arms have them but I'm not sure if they are in the correct position) rack and pinion into t-18- (ill mention this as its kind of relevant to this being a steering section). due to the t-18 steering shaft not having any uni joints, you need a ke70/ae71 steering shaft a lot with the desired rack (ke70/ae71/ae86). its probaly easiest to do it with the motor/x-member out. you need to weld on the brackets to secure the rack to the cross member, put in the shaft and your about set! I'm not sure about putting racks into earlier ke/te models as t-18 shares fairly much the same chassis with ae86/ke70. steering quickener- a little box thats joined into the steering shaft before the rack/box to increase the speed that you turn. a simple device thats commonly used in various forms of racing. it turns your steering inputs from 1 turn to 1.5 turns or how ever the quickener is geared, it can also do the opposite for high speed and drag cars etc. doesn't increase steering lock at all. if i have go something wrong please feel free to show me the error of my ways of if you have more information to add. please feel free to post it and ill add it in there. **picture, some stolen from other people** spja screw in lock spacer- this is biggo's car with screw in lock spacer, 86 struts with standard 86 steering arms, reportedly aprox 45 degrees steering

i need to buy one of these :)

WTB: radiator, must fit in ae71 engine bay, dosent matter what sides the outlets are on, thats easy fixed. looking for an upgrade from standard. must also be in good condition, i.e no leaks, a few bent fins are okay but they mustn't be disintegrating as mine are lol. would rather aluminium, or a twin core excel rad but open to what you have got. PM me with what you have got.

all standard ones feature a thermostat, smallport (and presumably later ones) had that low pressure protection. bigport version didnt.

don't forget the handbreak cables, un-do them towards the front where they go from 2 cable into 1. get a brake line tool, brake lines are easily rounded so there is a special 5 sided spanner designed for the job. have everything un-done before you take the leafs out becuase the diff will want to roll off of the jack.

he just answered that question raven :lolcry: just pump it once or twice in car, i usually do but i don't have a choke at all to cold operation is a paint in the arse.. there maybe another problem thats causing it being hard to start. do you keep good maintenance? this to check would be fuel filter (just replace it if its more than 12months old they are like $6), check points gap and condition, plug gap and condition. it maybe wise to grab a bottle of fuel system cleaner it claims to help cold starting. that thing that sprays a mist of fuel into the carby when its not running is the accelerator pump.

if they where kitted you would hope they wouldn't have junk in them...

you need to ask the right questions to get a proper answer.. i can't remember what size you can get away with using a std ecu, so you need to tell what's running it..? either will be a nice improvement over standard, the bigger you go the higher it will move the power up in the rev band. both wil easly fit without major modification hp really depends on over mods, if you had a high comp bottom end, quad throttles ecu then standard cams would be a major restriction.

keep the headliner and front door cards as there are handy when you roll as it gives you a little more padding and avoids you from damageing your helmet (if your wearing one lol). get a car that wont die to easly, i.e. a ke70 (something old and pushrod they seem to last longer). we had a t-18 and a 120y t-18 was incredible fun, it blew clouds of smoke and i was scared of revving it over 4,000 because of the super bad piston slap (it had no rings), the 3t had heaps of toque.. it got rolled twice and thing to kill it was the t-series kinda broke in it :lolcry: the 120y was held on the valve bounce constantly and smashed threw gears thanks to the dog box no or little clutch was needed. never over heated even though when it was running it wouldn't get over about 70km's and wouldn't fall below 4,000. mods included sick sounding side pipe, stripped interior custom scalloped side from tree swapping and 13" corolla steelies on the front.

This year as part of the Tasmanian Drift Series the we are trying to spice things up a little bit and give spectators more to keep them entertained during the day of drifting. Part of this involves running a show and shine to show off some of Tassie's best modified vehicles. After an ordinary showing at RND1 we're wanting Launceston to show the southern posers how its done and bring whatever you've got.... Cars will be situated at the rear of the pits in a designated area This is not strictly for drift cars, any show quality car would be welcomed. The day can see up to 1000 or even more spectators come out for a look so if your proud of your car and would like to show it off bring it along CLUB DISPLAYS ENCOURAGED WHEN - 31st MAY WHERE - Symmons Plains Raceway - Back Of Pits Area COST - Gold Coin $$$$ TIME - cars are to arrive between 9am and 9.30pm and be parked in the designated area til the end of the lunch break, after such time you will be allowed to take the car up to the hill area to watch the action in the afternoon but its highly encouraged that you leave the car in the designated area throughout the day Prizes awarded for Tuffest Street Car and Best Show Car if this isnt successful its unlikely that either northern or southern events will feature a car show for the rest of the year any queries email [email protected]

no probs, does the old girl have much rust? how much are you looking to spend to get a respray?