tas_ae71

from what ive seen a few yobbo's in some utes ripping it up in the out back... i don't have my hopes up for much in the way of descent but meh, will see where it goes.

yeah, I'm not a fan of those konig copies? or any other wheels that are under 400 per wheel....

have heaps of parts, 4ag bits including RWD jdm manifolds, loom jdm and adm ecu's hks cams and gears twin sidedraft set-up sprinter parts spritner struts few box's t-series diffs 13x7 hot wires 18x8/9's and a heap more. PM me if your after anything

i replied to your WTB thread

t-50 bolts up tho just want to try it out spja edit: it works hahahahah what a trippa, nick you are a cruel man

need some complete ke20 front struts/brakes and steering arms to suit... or soemthing thats the same that will bolt in. doesnt have to be brilliant condition, not looking to pay much.

yeah i think i might go for 20mm spacers then i shouldn't have any scrub issues. love how they sit tho

beerhead, they don't have "kingpins" that would be more a commercial vehicle with a solid front end. trucks, tractors etc.

didnt this car sell a few months back?

i use 98 ethonal, i have it "tuned" for it and i definitely get more power from it. highway economy is incredible but city driving is down... but that maybe due to other factors as well. had to screw more fuel in it than what i had on 95 (PULP) this is with a lightly modded 4ac

14x7 SSR mk3's (with 25mm spacers)

more rpm you use the smaller your engine life. having said that, many factors which will factor engine life. for a minute, forget all about rpm, look at engine specs and what a power/toque chart would look like if it was on a dyno. thats where you would want to keep the revs int the "sweet" spot where it makes most power. tune the parts together to make power at around the same spot. so your cam profile, cam and ignition timing, extractor design/primary length should all reflect this. as a rule of thumb if you wanted high end power(8,000-10,000) you would need a very well balanced bottom end, very large cam with long duration (300-320) 4-1 extractors with LONG primary's. for a more conservative set-up you may chose 4-2-1 extractors with more normal length primary's so that it makes more power down low without absolutely strangling it at higher revs and a more mild cam, perhaps around 270 degrees. also how do you want the engine to respond? do you want to go for outright power with nothing down low. also a lightended flywheel and correct tyre size/diff ratio will also effect how it performs quite a bit. remember that while it maybe cool to have a super duper motor that can do a billion revs but if your going to be doing quite a bit of street driving rather than track then you may want to chose a setup that wont be a pig to drive. also you may experience poor fuel economy with little performance if you try and drive around like you would with a near stock motor. yes stock manifolds and carb would make it feel more like a std one.

i have all of that minus the headlight/guard. is in red PM me sammyp if your interested.

twin sidedrafts with manifold and other bits for 16v 4ag http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=22605#entry266998

smeg, dude, I'm not moving to hobart. they must eb some desperate c**ts to steel smegging copper wire for your car.. i know its worth a bit but geez where do you draw the line.

yeah well i was wondering that^^ lol smeg knows

thats unessesarly burtal. i mean smeg, if they had stolen shit out of it without trashing the rest...

is it a silver top or black top? oh and i love your home made tool sam.

i woke up this morning to find myself crunching something in my teeth.. thought hhmm thats strange. it was dam mud/dirt. I'm like WTF where did that come from lawl

how about checking this jdm te27 out HAWT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah was sweet, i got mud on my hoody tho.. no windscreen make it feel heaps faster.. i was kinda worried it was going to roll. even tho si, 55 goes well, can't compare to my 4a powah haha, got into my car and accelerated when we got back. sam you whould build us a rally bus, thing would be crazy fast and last for many thrash sessions!

how about slushy? first thing that popped into mind

nah tow bar kinda got stolen haha.. the sort of steel they use is heavy as smeg too, will be seam welding and maybe some bracing/half cage. yeah you just harden the smeg up, 10kg isnt that bad... better than welded shocks. just. wouldnt be so bad with some shocks to match it. but it does mean that you can have it sitting on the tyre without and scrubbage when when you get air over bumps.

check that your fuel filter too?

use an orbital sander with some abrasive paper. any sort of dipping will strip the coating off of the inside of the pannel which you don't want. same with a media blasting. it doesnt take long with an electric sander/polisher.