tas_ae71

nah si it not.. :cool: wish it was.. now you can kinda understand the grandpa spec car haha. if i did it anyway id get the biggest f@$ken ear bashing, it really wouldnt be worth it. unless i drop her home on the way and pick her up on the way back... :D

i can't do much spirited driving as ill have a 6-7months pregnant woman nagging in my ear telling me I'm driving like a maniac :cool:

dan, you got a ride yet?? might find a spare seat in my bus if your super lucky... what sort of time is this going down guys? i have to be back at work by 4 in the arvo

i have a set of ae71 doors, fairly good condition, no rust resonably straight. paint is red/black and f@$ked, guess you would be repainting them anyway. not sure if i want to part with them or not as they are keeping my shit thats inside the shell dry haha. edit, looking for a lower bever pannel for a mx83.. i think, will see how fixable this one is

i need a series 2 mx83 cressy engine x-member!!!

nah thats ^^^ sick

i have a 290degree cam in my 4ac, also has 32/36 weber, electronic ignition and exhaust. so very similar to your set-up! it still has plenty of toque down low. its my daily driver and the only issue i have with it engine wise is the f@$ken weber needs a rebuild. its happy to pull from 2k or so. standard drivetrain but has smallish tyres on the back which does help (175/65R14) power comes on from 3500/4000 and keeps pulling upto 7,000. does taper off a bit in the top mainly due to the exhaust being too restrictive

RG250 road bike, heap of money just spent on it. great bike ready to ride, registered etc etc LAMS approved. only just, one of the quickest bikes available under them LAMS approval http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=27901

id vote 13bt hell a 13b would be quick... for the simple reason of size. 13b would be mounted back a lot further and lower helping the weight distribution. I'm helping out a mate with a 1jz conversion into a gz10 soarer... i can say its a big motor, plus its in a engine bay which is considerably bigger than a ta22.

doing a semi part out of me keto, also have a 7mge with spun bearing and auto...

is there anything but cable ties and sticky tape?? these are normal repair items for corolla... i don't use string as you have to tie nots and shit and I'm lazy haha.

shakotan garage puts out again :P

thats all i was going to do if i did rebuild it. ive done the sums, if the crank and black are fine should be able to get it rebuilt with minor machine work for about $500. also considering 1jzgte or 2jzge. wouldnt bother with race series ACL with a smelly old stock 7m with auto. just looking to see if these a cheap reasonable condition 7m in tassie so i can just drop it in and drive.

hey guys. recently got a my mx83 running, replaced starter and water pump, paid rego to find that it has done a bottom end bearing. been considering a few options. looking for a resonable condition 7MGE or if someone even just had a good bottom end cheap. extra bits arnt required, starter, loom, altenator etc as i have everything but a good motor will only buy a 7mge from tassie, if i have to pay freight i may as well go to a 1jz/2jz thanks guys

not good. i have parts to fix it tho dude... fear not edit: beat me too it :cool:

these a overrated 2door ke20 in deloraine (as you come off the highway on the devonport side). looks to be standard and the chrome bars looks straight as a pin! $2500 but prob worth it as the codition it looks to be in. i didnt have a close inspection of it but...

yep makes that noise :P all the way upto like 10-11,000 or so

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=26973#entry309544 15x7 SSR style meshies

also selling suzuki RG250 road bike, LAMS (learner) approved $2250 firm http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=377490

ive got an exedy h/d brought a car with one, it had been thrashed and thrash still was working but didnt shift very well.. i brought another 2nd hadn one, had about 5,000km's on it so it was still nice and fresh. ive had it in there for 40,000km's and I'm fiarly hard on it. gets dumps/launches, flat shifts, kicks, comp lock etc as well as general daily driving and its not given any sign of failing. last time i replaced the motor clutch plate had worn a bit but still had life left in it. next time ill just get in a puck button clutch (i can get them cheap at whole sale price). I'm very impressed on how much the clutch has taken and is still taking. would prob last an easy 100,000+km's with general daily driving non thrashing. id recommend them! if your wanting a full out thrash bus then a button is the only way to go.

old man is selling his L31 SLR5000 full bare metal resto, genuine, 308, lots of money spent currently on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...s=tab%3DSelling

lol, prob because i knew like 3 people there haha don't know where the darn they are from.

are southern guys actually interested tho?

no worries kezza, seen the other Aarons fab work, its very professional, some of the best ive ever seen!

has it got rust casey?