tas_ae71

find a big hill and go down it, wooo fast.

sr20de in a silvia is boring to say the least. but in a lighter car its likely to be a different story. that would seem the cheapest of the options (not including ca but i think that has been ruled out). beams is bit exxy.

there are worse ideas. cut springs are an improvment. however small. basically just causes a bit less body roll. yeah maybe if they are cut so low they are botteming out on the stops. i cut mine so i had more suspension compression but they where still there. passed a RWC (in tassie). same, i would always recommend using one of those super thin cutting wheels. so even less heat is generated. 2 full coils off the springs front and rear give a reasonable drop without too much negative effects. not grinding low but enough so it doesnt look 4x4 spec. also think about it, what is putting the same rate stiffer springs in the front and rear going to do? look at rates commonly used F / R 6 / 4.5 7 / 5 8 / 6 (thats in KG/mm) so lets say your cut falcons are around 4kg.. 4/4 is going to be much less then ideal in theroy. it may also give it bad oversteer on the limit, not cool or controllable oversteer either. DO some research into it. look what other people have used and what they use the car for.

definately useable with the aid of a welder... *gears, axles and centres can all be fixed with a welder

my kesev sold...

surely 4agze is 222mm

my 4ac ke70 with 1k+ of new susy and brakes http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=35211

what about a screw driver to get behind it and pry it out? you can buy a tool, its like a small screw driver except it has a 90 degree bend with a point at the end, that the best thing for seals usually. I'm guessing thats what its made for :jamie:

put 18rg into fiddy 5?

where you doing anything that could be considered "hooning" ? maybe he just thought it was a shit box. if a copper actually said that to me i don't think i could hold back telling him to get f@$ked..... next time these something like that, get a bit of paper and a pen and ask for his name, rank, badge number, station he is located at. quite often puts the wind up them if they are being a prick. technically i do think they have to co-operate. if your obviously much in the wrong its not wise to do it, also don't wear it out :jamie:

pics? never heard of this. i converted to ae82 electronic dizzy and that has a external coil.

diesels don't run a BOV lol i love the sound of spool, hate the sound of PSSHT. ill re-co my standard BOV thank you very much lol

better to notice these things when they happen then to keep driving.... if you like the motor haha

see you guys tomorrow, I'm bringing speed burgers and shit lol but i have been sick so its been shit spec for my bus still... oh well one day

yes very rad. will look better with a lip too.

I'm coming, got the day off work. hopefully should have the bus a bit more "up to spec" but still having timing belt issues!

these a small brass pipe on the side of the body of the carb, connect a vacuum line from this to the dizzy, this will be the vacuum advance. as for the other emissions, i removed and blocked off everything when i put my weber on my 4ac. but this maybe illegal depending on where you live.

that sure helpped me! thats good to know altho i don't own a multi meter and have no fkn idea how to use one haha

thinking dodgy... ah, when i did my 4ac conversion to my kesev, i didnt have much in the way of wire, so found a few old bit i had and joined them togehter for the dizzy/coil (can't remember if they where ever soldered or just twisted). been like that for well over 2 years. thermo fan fitted with a zippie tie and bit of copper wire out of the welder (now bolted in place) current radio soon to be ditched grounded with wire twisted around a bolt and screwed down around the gear shifter boot holder, all other wires twist joined and taped with clear tape. zippie tied front ae86 bar cut to fit beat out inner guard from pole hit (is still rusty from where paint cracked and fell off) zippie tied exhaust mounts when i fitted weber i cut a slot in the std throttle bracket and zippie tied the cable down. still like this has given me no trouble. i had a split heater hose so i rammed it on a bit further and clamped it then zippie tied it. kept driving around like that for another 6+months until i got sick of topping up the water. the shaft that holds the bracket for the throttle plate (?) on the weber stripped the thread, screwed a smaller nut on a tack welded it, still like it works like a brought one. i have also zippie tied front springs in (helps to keep them aligned). springs happened to be from a holden and where cut very low :jamie: rear shocks upside down out of a nissan van. work very well! i brought a t-18 for parts ages ago, the tailshaft was bolted was held to the diff by 3 random bolts that where not even finger tight had the power wire for the aftermarket radio jammed in where the fuses go the radio hole had been cut larger then needed so this was superglued in, no brackets behind it at all. they had cut the speaker holes out too large so they got a bit of the plasic corigated stiff (kinda like cardboard but its plastic) from a real estate board and cut it to mount the speakers in the doors.

i was looking for a 4ac, was starting to get desperate.. so went to a local wreckers. talked to them, they said they had a FWD one still in the car. motor had been half stripped and the guy described it as "a bit smokey" said "oh it only needs a set of rings and bearings"... thought well yeah right if i wanted to rebuild one id do it to the one ive got. then i thought well if its cheap enough it could be an option. he then said your still looking at about $300 for it. i stared blankly at him for about 30seconds as i didnt think he was serious. i then thanked him for his time and left.. i came back 12months later and it was still there with the bonnet up. took the dizzy, left the old cap and button as they where going to charge me extra for it.

185/60 don't even bother trying to get "strech" on them, you need stupid wakk tyres and it looks shit. oh and if the tyre joint says 185 is too narrow for a 7" then go else where. potenza RE001 is prob about the grippiest street tyre you will get in 185/60. yokahama C-drive is cheaper and still does quite well, prob better in the wet.

a brace from from the back of the booster where it bolts to the fire wall around to the front of it...? its a top veiw, blakc is booster, green cylinder (and little squares are bolts) red is the brace... just a thought. but if it is what you say it is then it must be dangerous and i can't see how it could be able to flex an inch then go back to its normal shape.

why wouldnt you ring up a shop about a headgaket? lol..

:P i have a woman (other then yo mamma)

the second option would be the way to go. plus you can turn them off around popo. i had a light ring in my dildo knob and it lit up the whole car and i could not see a thing at night. depending on exactly where you mounted them and there brightness would make the difference. it sounds more like you want to be a ricer then have a joke really. the "proper" way would be to wire in a relay and to a switch, but you could do it the dodgy way and wire from + threw a switch (with a fuse at least) and to the lights. this is how i did my thermo fan.