tas_ae71

prob a farked battery there mate.. it not the batty then the alternator isnt charging properly. i noticed the main power wire in my ke70 from alternator to battery must be a bit buggered because if you wiggle it around it changes the idle as the engine is put under load from the alternator..

as above, even if you got the whole motor set-up for free, the cost of the rest of the conversion would not be worth it for a ca20. these a reason they came in pinnies ca18det are cheap as chips, but they are old so it maybe hard to get a "fresh" motor.

went to a carb specialist today and had a chat to him about it, he said that its not to change the jetting just yet. part of the problem was that it was running on the main circuit instead of the idle circuit, that is now fixed with a further clean and winding back the idle. its still very boggy and wont rev up until its warm. this is mostly an issue when taking off, if i keep the revs up and change back a gear before i put it under heavy load it should be manageable. its been raining here, went for a test drive tonight, rode the clutch until it was going fast enough in first gear then booted it and revved it out in first grabbed 2nd, thought the clutch was slipping for a second but it was actually wheel spin which i haven't experienced in a straight line for quite some time :wink: will give the carb place a call tomorrow and book it in friday. hopefully ill be able to get to work in the morning!!!

was in town the other day and it kept fouling plugs and bogging down, i went and got a set of iridium plugs $88 for the set! went home threw them in started it up, hhmm yeah it goes better and seems to pick up a lot better. later in the evening i drove down to the supermarket. was a LOT worse. kept on getting bogged down and when it would clear when you put any sort of load on it, it would start to stall again.

thanks felix. i checked the power valve and it holes vaccume. i also visually inspected it and it looks fine. i cleaned all the jets and shit out, pulled everything off and cleaned, blew out and re-assemeballed. the bit that doesnt make sense to me, is if its only a jetting issue then why wasnt it running like this from the start? i was speaking to a fella at a local performance workshop he said we can throw the old girl on the dyno and have a play with the jetting. dyno + AFR meter = win :) beats a f@$ken road test haha.

luishi wheels are synthetic leather. nardi is real leather, but doesnt wear as well. i vote for real nardi, used ones are around $150

kiahn, typically i believe that its more sidedrafts that need to be fine tuned every 6month or so. old fella, needle and seat are full brass type, i replaced it prob 18months ago. kangaroo, how exactly do you check the float level the proper way? the level in the bowl (without the floats in there) doesnt look abnormally high. turning the top housing of the carb upside down, the top of the floats isnt even as high as the over flow hole/passage. what part are the venturis?? ive had the only man out there mucking around with it with me all morning. its still bogging down at low revs. over 2500revs it pick up again and seems to run as it should. what is the "power valve"?? the above the floats with the stick and big spring on it??

ive been using it for a year or two, problem has been gradually getting worse. jetting isnt ideal but thats not the problem i feel idle screw hasnt been changed since i tuned it last. idle screw and mixture screw are 2 different things btw.

what are the lift and duration on both models of camshaft? valves you don't need to change, but they may give you a tad more power. valve springs, you maybe be able to use the standard ones depending on the intended revs and the lift of the cam. cooling issue? if you live somewhere where its hot, using a oil cooler and large radiator with good flowing fans should solve this. there are also hi flowing thermostats available.

its mechanical pump, i replaced the needle and seat a while back so it shouldnt be worn. standard 32/36 should be able to hold back quite a few PSI pressure anyways. it doesnt run any type of choke set-up, had been removed when i brought the carb... or do you mean something else?

ive used a exedy HD organic in my 4ac ke70 for.... aprox 2 years. its done track work, hills, plenty of street skids. copped heaps of kicks few launches typical kiddy stuff and it has served me well! its out lasted 2 motors and on its 3rd 4ac :y: ive never noticed it slip. when i used it at the track (heaps of laps) it got so hot that it kinda "faded" like your brakes do and i had to stop and let it cool down. i thought oh shit ive cooked it or glazed it. an hour later i drove it home and its still fine to this day. when i brought another ae71 it had a exedy HD and it had had the tits thrashed off of it, pressure plate had gone soft or soemthing. the disk was worn smooth and it was still working in a fashion haha

hey guys, pulled the weber off my 4ac today as it has been running like a bag of shit (and had to fix the linkage). cleaned out the jets, blew everything out, checked and cleaned out accelerator pump. noted one of the jets in the bottom of the bowl had a bit of shit in it and was half blocked. put it all back together, sealed up and bolted it back on. got it running and it was still doing the same thing that it was before. when you first start it, its pooring so much fuel down it, it will not run any faster then about 700rpm. over the next 3 minutes (as it starts to warm up i guess), it gradually builds up until it clears and is drivable (still very boggy at low revs). now tonight after it had been cleaned out, its shooting more fuel down it!! when you look down the barrel of the carb, fuel is coming out thick and fast. also in large droplets not mist. accelerator pump is working correctly, it only sprays when the throttle in increased. if you open the throttle more it doesnt pick up revs, fuel mist is then kinda spraying back up out of the throte and onto my strut brace. if i can manage to get it up and cleared, it drives fine, revs fine upto 7000 so is there something farked in it or something that i missed cleaning out??? thanks Aaron BTW, engine is 4AC carb is 32/36 weber ignition is converted to electric, new plugs, cab, button, coil etc large cam exhaust

ive got a sprinter front bar on my slanty KE, its about the best thing you can do without converting to flat front.

i didnt understand much of that, prob want to list the profiles of the camshafts. also don't forget that the larger the cam the higher RPM's you need to make the grunt. also large duration cams need higher compression, while you may have oversized pistons you havent said what comp ratio either matey. re-write it with a paragraph or two. also why did you put a picture up?

bump stops fail! cut them when you cut the springs... i did :yes: and they passed rego inspection like that and yes they noticed! haha

IRS=independent rear suspension. ae71, r31, hilux, tarago are all live axle (your traditional style diff) a conversion is a fairly big job that requires a descent bit of fab work, its also usually works out heavier. not really worth it IMO. a w-series box is strong, awesome bang for buck, you wont break one with any 4a. its a tried and tested box and conversion. there are parts to make this bolt straight to the motor such as bellhousings, clutch set-ups etc so minimal custom work is needed. a R31 borgwaner should be plenty strong enough. also if you have an LSD instead of a locker it will last much longer and be quite a bit more street friendly. they are fairly common so getting replacement axles if you do happen to ever break one is easy. they also have the factory disk brakes which the hilux doesnt. they are a descent bit wider i believe. doesnt necessary mean it needs shortening. running +offset wheels or having flares will help. i wouldn't think that it would be a great daily driver though. usually with a daily you want something a bit less inconspicuous, comfortable, fuel efficient, quiet and easier to drive. no PS, bitey clutch make it a bit more difficult in town.

dude, check the tyre diameter ratio from std to the current. also the diff ratio maybe different to the std one. just swap the speedo gear drive thing from the t-18 one. A-series t-50's are better then T-series t50's. but id imagine ratios are the same between them. the throw to 5th is longer with the t-18 one. plus they all seem to be a bit more sloppy?

you could always take the sump off, you could then see if it had a fully counter balanced crank (then it would be a proper 6bolt 4ag) but being that it was from a ae92 id be thinking along the lines of the other guys.

2 wheels of quick madness http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=30664 $1900 and LAMS approved so learns can ride it.

are parts that arnt worth much free?? if so interested in bonnet and guards.. could prob stash away the headlights/parkers as well just incase :y: will come pull off parts and clean up afterwards :)

i spotted someone in my rear vision mirror in a KE 35/55 i think with huge cloudes of smoke coming out of it behind me, may have been on fire even lol. oh and some supras zippin past. was on the highway near Westbury

ae71 pedal box is worth a bit if your not using it ^^

incase lloyed/tom doesnt take it http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=420172

beau, you could always remove the little wires.. just remember not to loose the pins. ooorrr you could get the type that the little pin is built into a latch kinda thing. like these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JDM-Bonnet-Pin-Set-...93%3A1|294%3A50 will have to try that trick sometime. oh, another thing for matt black paint, use a high pressure washer (like a cartcher etc).. once it was dry i could actually see a reflection of stuff at night off of it.

i hear 1G pistons are a closer fit?