tas_ae71

you can swap the whole struts/brakes/steering arms over with the ke35 strut tops i believe. 21-rc is a odd conversion..

i didnt do the timing belt, i made a new thread, the belt is skipping teeth.

ah i see what you mean by brackets.. ill be going with twin falcon thermo's with shroud for my cressy.. edit, you could also put a bit of rubber or somehting around the fan so it wouldnt vibrate etc against the radiator.

i found it to be the cam timing. it was out by 2 teeth (so a wonder it actually ran). so might pay to check that, fairly sure you have a 4ac sprinter? there are 3 marks (kinda like pointy triangles) on the rocker cover behind the cam gear. take the plastic timing cover off. turn the motor over (19mm spocket on crank bolt) until the small pin hole on the spokes of the cam wheel is lined up with the middle timing mark. then have a look at the timing mark on the crank pully, if its on "0" or within maybe 5 degrees its good enough. then prob check the ignition timing with a timing light.

have had to adjust timing twice since i made this thread! i think I'm going to grab a new belt, i did not when i first start the motor and its cold, it sounds like its got a "mew". similar to that of a supercharger/gilmor belt drive.. after a few mins it goes away. could be coming from soemthing else other then the timing belt. perhaps from incorrectly toqued cam caps :P

gessus you guys are weak c**ts :P i have never made brackets, always bolted it directly threw. with my old rad, and new rad.. its one way to ensure that the fan is hard up against it so it can draw max air threw. you would have to be seriously dope to fk the radiator and make it leak. the BEST way to do it is with a big shroud so air is drawn in from the whole core and not just where the fan is. they have that set-up on au falcon? hence why its popular to retro fit to other cars.

yes he wants to sell it. you may have to organise a courier to pick it up tho, dunno if he can be bothered for a $100 diff. lol

imo a microtech is only good for a rotor, even then these better choices. not sure if they have majorly improved the LT10s over the older ones but every tuner or person who has run one have said they cannot get a accurate enough tune due to not enough resolution in maps and poor switching for load mapping (i.e part throttle not just what and WCT).

yes you push the long thing bolts threw the FINS between the tubes if you try and jimmy the bolt threw the tube part then you will spring a leak. chances are that if its the original radiator then the fins will very brittle and crumble away as you push it threw. the tubes run vertical and fins go horizontal. confused you? ive done well then.

are you letting us know of these or is this a spam thing?

what does it really matter what its off of? putting a 32/36 on my 4ac was the biggest performance increase of any of the "bolt on" mods i have done.

i do the tappet adjustemnt hot as its ment to be done.. i did not buy the cam new, also it had done very little work, no signs or wear at all. so i cannot confirm the exact specs of it. he said he thought it was 290 degrees, but he also told me it was a 35/73 (3500~7500rpm power range) which would surgest to me that its not quite that big in the duration.. as for the actual lift, i dummy fitted it to a old broken head to see how much extra lift it had compared to the standard cam, i gfound the standard inlet lobe has a fair bit of lift but the exhaust had FECK all. the reground cam has a fair bit extra lift in the exhaust and about the same on the inlet (no dial gauge to measure properly). taking to be tested on a cam doctor (if someone still have one in launceston?) isnt practical either. so valve float is where when the cam is on the down ramp and the valve is closing, the soft tention of the spring means that the ramp falls faster then the valve spring can re-coil making the rocker go slack instead of keeping it tight against the cam lobe as it should????? thats what came to mind by what you said :lolcry: as i said the belt doesnt show signs of wear and it quite tight, altho you maybe onto something with the bearing, i did notice that the face of the belt contact is a bit discoloured which means is been heating up and has picked up small spots of rubber off the belt. so you maybe onto something there... ill go and check to see how free spinning the bearing is. but it must be fairly shagged to cause enough resistance to make the belt slip, the 4ac has a lot of teeth/wheel contact.

hey guys, having 2 issues at the moment, car is 4ac kesev. 1. my cam timing seems to keep jumping a tooth (or two). -belt is always kept adjusted tight has the spring on there and i leaver the bearing tensioner on a little more when nipping the bolt up to make it even tighter (not over tight). -belt is probaly 40,000km's old and doesnt show signs of wear -cam wheel and crank pulley don't really look worn. if they where then they would be chewing the belt out. -valve springs are stock, cam isnt. -belt appears to run true when motor is running and cam isnt bent or anything silly -not 100% sure but may only be happening when i give it a heap of revs (i regularly give it some stick haha) ANY IDEAS?? 2. my tappets, or perhaps only one or two are noisey, i have adjusted them a few times now to the correct gap specifed under the bonnet. -when i start the car after being adjusted they are relatively quiet. after being driven (perhaps revved hard). -that one or two tappets will be quiet noisey as they are again at the moment. it almost sounds like a spun bearing at the moment (its not as if i adjust them it will go away) -I'm probaly doing them on the tighter side of things when i adjust them. -also i have a reground cam but do not know 100% what the clearance is supposed to be for the cam so i just do them at what the standard clearance is. ta

if your using a "k" series box then you need just the whole t-18 tailshaft if your using a 22spline (a-series t50) then you need the front half of a sprinter and rear half t-18. ke70 and ae71 tailshafts do not unbolt in the middle like t-18 and sprinter celica does fit!! however it is a tad wider, also the mount/hangers are a little further apart. it will fit but will fark the bushes bit quicker. if you went 4link it would solve that issue.

fark, is that a toda sports injection kit???? how much that cost you

challengers are 15x10.. don't make them any bigger :hmm:

+1 that sounds epic. that just goes to show even if you are mega ranga and own a corolla you can still get a woman! unfortunately i was unable to attend.

hahaha! i have never seen a car with the filter relocation externally! oil cooler/lines yes but filter NO! thats taking it to the extreme! also the most ugly ducking ever... but sooo so rare

1. unscrew the button 2. slide spring in 3. screw button back in* *note there is a little bit of dicking around to get the thread started on the bottom winding it back onto the little metal shaft

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/94/help-sav...ied-cars-in-nsw sign this, its a online petition again the new law of banning lowering/rasing of cars more then a bee's dick..

HOW WOULD THIS COMPARE TO A BEE*R LIMITER? WOULD I BE ABLE TO DRIFT BETTER WITH THIS IN MY STOCK KE70 WITH THE AUTO? I REALLY NEED A REV LIMITER BECAUSE I KEEP OVER REVVING IT BECAUSE ITS SO RESPONCIVE HOW MUCH? WILL YOU POST? *note i may be been a bit of a smart arse

wow that is early! lil mia was born on the 16th.. the missus shot her out so fast i didnt have time to get there, shame i missed it.

i can prob do a better price with KYB

this has to be my fav pic!

can i borrow it after that casey? my 2j should be about 3-4weeks away, told them to put it on the fast boat from japan.. i didnt know you had a bub si! 1kg is freakin tiny, must have been heaps prem? my kid was 1 or 2 weeks early.. she 7 weeks old now :sob: