tas_ae71

ah i didnt know it was you johnny.. joash dosent have his sprinter going and i dunno if brendo would bring his (chump aka turbo) sprinkeler out and his ke10 is too hardcore for much street driving really and i don't want to get owned by a 3k. justin is fairly busy to so yeah...

2" lower is for sorties.... also beware not to go too short with the shocks or you end up with not enough travel. i have 1" or less, I'm not using sierras either, thinking on going longer.. or lower one of the two.

yeah but it like fully increase power bro, ill tell you a secret, get a milo tin (one of the big ones don't be soft) and wakk it on the end of your old muffeler, just like a tuned exhaust! adds like a bazzilion drift points.. each to there own, some people like the note/look of a cannon, they are okay on the right kind of car. i brought a soarer with a 3" cat back to a cannon and f@$k the thing would bellow a horrid note from idle to 3.5k over that it went quiet. i have a 2" into 2.25" tip on my ke and that sounds tough as, the muffeler is up front and the resonater is about half way leaving a lot of pipe for the sound to reverborate. down side to this is that it is quite loud, before part of it got squished, it was on par with a group b rally car for note and top end volume.

takes about 15sec to adjust in car... lol. press foot brake, apply hand brake, release foot brake release hand brake and your done.. if its really bad you may need to repeat the process.. it works for me every time. i do this automatically when drifting as i also at times use both brakes in unison.

wow that sounds kinda small....? i don't know what a 3k head is.. but just comparing it to a 4ac/4afe head (they have almost ideantical combustion chamber capacities) that's fairly small.

it maybe a good idea to grab another head if you need to keep driving it? recondition it with new valve seals, cam seals and check/reseat the valves, have the head skimmed to ensure no head gasket worries.. as for the other one that wont start, 3 things a motor needs to have to run, air, fuel and spark. generally the air part is good. you can check the the spark is happening by removing a spark plug lead, pull the boot back enough to expose the metal tip and hold it 3-5mm from the block or strut top bolt, something that has good earth and wont be damaged by electricity. get someone crank the motor a couple of runs, you should see blue spark jump the gap, if this is the case refit the lead because it must be a fuel problem. if there is a weak spark, that is that you have to be almost touching the metal part to see the spark or nothing happens (try another earthing point to make sure) you should investigate further. check that the distrubutor cap is not crack, bronken and fitted properly, that the rotor button is healthy and that the parts on the inside of the distributor cap are in good order, often they will haev a build up of white powery shit, clean if off. also try swapping the coil from your running one into this one. bundle the wires with marsking tape and mark them +- so they you don't get confused when refitting it. if this still dosent give you spark, there maybe a probelm with the distributor or wiring. i don't know if they have a 4afe or 4afc.. ill mention both procedures. for the carby version. remove the top of the air filter, grab a torch or in good light open the choke (springy flap at the top of the carby) and look down the thotte. pull on the accselerator or turn it by hand to make the butterfly open and close, you should see a mist of fuel squirt out. if it dosent there maybe 2 corses for this, 1 it has been sitting for a long time and the fuel has evaporated and gone crusty inside perhaps blocking it up, or 2 the fuel has evaportaed and the fuel pump hasnt managed to fill the carby up enough. you can then take top of the carby off and poor some fuel to fill up the fuel bowl about half way (not down the throtte as you will drown it, liquid fuel dosent combust , only in a mist/vapor form). refit the top of the carby and try to start again. it maybe wise to remove the carby, take it apart and clean the crap out of it, chances are that it would be suprisingly dirty for something that has fuel in it. for efi. get someone to crank it while you stick your ear around the fuel tank area to hear for the fuel pump noise, if yo can't hear anything (it would probaly be fairly quiet) the that the connection it plugged in properly (perhaps even touch a test light on it when cranking to ensure it has power). if you have both fuel and spark, check both cam and ignition timing. turn the motor by hand so that the timing mark on the crank pully lines up with the 0 mark. inspect the distributor to see if its facing the right direction (number one spark plug wire) if it isnt turn crank one full turn and it should be at number 1 at this point. if you have a timing light or know someone close by who has one if maybe a good idea to check it with one. hope this gives you something to start with, in finding the problem.

will it run? also you did put the distributor in the right way? because the crank turns on a 2-1 ratio the distributor can easily be set 180 degrees out (i.e. firing the opposite cylinder o what it should)

you do not want to damaged where the seal is for the piston, under the rubber dust covers around the piston, it you do you may very well ruin the callipers, but if you do it as vhr32 has then you could probaly get away with it with..

i have wheels suit fwd application here 1x t-series diff here

if your paint is just a bit faded then it maybe possible to buff/hand polish it back to a nice high gloss and colourful finish.. need to know more about the car and what you want to do? anything that comes from a can should be for small jobs such as painting a front lip, inside wheel archs surtainly not the exterior pannles (flat black excluded). its all fairly lousy quality and give a poor finnish even if you use a clear coat, it will last a few months tops before it starts to flatten, fade and look generally alot worse than before you did it. for a quick guide 1: using a fine sand paper 800-1200grit by hand go over the entire body, removing bumpers, trim and lights will make it easier to get as and a much neater job. 2: small spots of surface rust (around tail lights out of sight) can be cleaned back to bare metal with a wire wheel if there are small holes they can easly be filled with bog (body filler) use as directed sand back with 120-125 grit paper and a block finnish with a finer paper so that ridges as smoothed. 3: wipe over with wax and greese remover/prepsol. using a primer (depending on the paint that you use) give the whole car several coats (allow drying time and do not apply too thick that you get runs) remember to cover up windows and anywhere you don't want to paint, don't forget wheel/tyres. 4: give a very light coat of black (pressure pack is fine at this time) so that the primer is clouded/speckeled with black not coated) 5: rub the primer using a fine wet and dry paper 1200 should do the job, remember to sue with water, have a bucket and spong handy to keep things wet. the black that you sprayed on is a guide cost showing any spots where you have missed. you should aim to only just remove the black speckels as you don't want to cut threw to the layer of paint beneth. 5: again remask and wipe over with wax and greese remover (it removes oil from your hands aswell as dust). mix paint accordingly. the compressor you use should have a filter and water catch thing to prevent shit being sprayed onto the paint. 6: spray according to the paint that you use, some will require more coats than others, the automotive apint shop will be able to advise on whats best for you. spray with a clear coat. depending on your personal preferance and the type of paint you use you may have to cut the paint back lightly to take the wavering finish that resembles the skin of an orange and buff (2pak dosent require this its usually near perfect straight off the gun but it has its drawbacks). things to remember: paint and primer wont stick to a shiny surface. the more time you put into getting it right the better the job will be. paint descent hide things, if it has a pin hole, it WONT fill it, if anything it will be more noticeable. you should be spraying in a shed on a warm day, if you don't have warm days then invest in a heater and have it going for a few hours before paint so that the shed is toasty warm. thats a very brief explanation but its enough to get you thinking.

hektic: that would be fine with me, nice and local (10mins away) as long as people don't go too crazy (stay in your lane) shouldn't be a problem but there are quite a few tourists, caravans and boats on that road during the day. other skid meets have been quite successful 20+cars, hard to find a parking spot. probaly not an all day thing but for a few hours for sure. another potion would be the sidling (is that what you call it?). only been threw there once at night and almost died due to headlights not shining over crests... lol. loved it when i could see, a top road get ya slig on... simmon, i know mate wasn't taking "offence" don't really take much notice of you "rollaclub bogans" seriously with your pushrods and what not.. :hmm: hektic, i think daims kesev would have to be in the top 3 in aus for the level of presentation. as for performance, prepared to be owned by a 4ac goodness lol!

long time no update... how the car is currently: engine: 4ac electric dizzy 32/36 webah exhaust 290 cam thermo fan removed emissions dyno run saw a total of 0.0kw as it was unable to start the rollers moving.. susy: 10kg front springs 4.5 trd rear springs rear adjustable short strokes brakes remain standard -1.5degrees camber (std strut tops and lca's) drivetain: exedy heavy duty organise plate (on the 3rd motor what a champ) hardcore mutherfkr diff whine remove syncro on 2nd gear pertly removed on 3rd interior/exterior: front bar rear flared guards nardi classic tacho dash bucket seat removed audio thats about it.....

saw a lemon ke20 at ridgly (15min south of burnie), had dragways and no front guards a few weeks back, didnt see it last time i went threw...

might have to make the trip in..

iv seen that rona around on the street, the thing is an animal when is the next track day on? want to start doing some runs soon..

some ae86dc "poofters" use these forums too :hmm: ah what about an all north day? i dunno if i cbf going down to ross lol, dunno if i can afford fuel and eats.. casey you could ride shotgun in my keto, wouldn't be keen on taking your cressy threw hills, id roll it :D

yes its for sale, the only difference with the housings is the large axle with drum comes with swaybar mounts. as you have leaf this dosent matter anyway. i can't comment on the jdm sprinter ones as I'm not 100% sure. id say you could but the bigger centre in and use it with bigger (custom) axles if you wished. not sure on bearings though. put it this way, a lot of people use t-series diffs for drifting with locked centres (much harder on axles than an lsd) and they don't break that often. Leighton fine when he was competing in hit 4agte sprinter used a large axle t-series without too many dramas until he broke the centre. personally i wouldnt worry about billet axles, aslong as your not using a locked centre it should last a while with spirited driving. but if your going to be doing alot of burnouts/drag launching with a locker/extra boost then axle life maybe shortened. for the cost of billet axles you could buy a spare pair and have money left over or go for a much larger diff all together. PM me if you wish to discuss this further with me.

if that is the problem you maybe able to make a small box and put a pod or something where there is room for it. similar to what a factory 20v uses... kinda.

i brought wheels that had been sand blasted, i wouldnt recommend it with alloy anything, they are quite deeply pitted, take quite a bit of sanding to get the dish to its original spec. alloy is just too soft....

while the noise limit maybe a little restricted for a race track, remember that on the street you tend not to hold it everywhere you drive at high rpm's etc so it is kinda a little different. id like to know how loud my car is lol, i got pulled over because it was too loud once and i told the cop that it had some holes in it, he just told me to get it fixed as soon as i can hahah.. yeah pitcrew ftw lol

i have a complete small axle (zenki) t-series, has drums which i think are a little larger than s-series so you get a bit of a bonus upgrade there aswell.

so is it okay to have a fiberglass bonnet if you have a bullbar? that way if you hit a pedestrian then they don't hit the bonnet... lol

eeerrr 4age in a ke20 would make good power to weight... take some time to get board of the power me thinks. better getting good susy brakes and diff. you need a custom tailshaft as the box output is different aswell as length. my mate has a ke20 that had a 4ag, brought it as a roller almost (minus front brakes). it has front coilies, stiff leafs, efi pumps and cage. planning on using it as a drifter, will have plenty of power comparerd to heavier sprinters/ae71's

yeah when i had my 4k it was a thirsty fkr.. around 15L/100km's mostly highway

mr trd, yes a ke70 with a 4k-c is the same as any other 4k motor.. keep your eye on this thread for them