Mr Revhead

ah yep. i think iv seen JDM ones like that, looks similar to the ke74 which is a highroof model do your middle windows open? mine pop out at the back

i wasnt aware they had any other sort of window :evil: they were sold new here, not the most common model, but not what id call rare... certainly more common than 2 door liftbacks, which a mate of mine has a overrated example of.

in pieces? why? make SURE it hasnt got shagged bearings.....

well i had the struts lying around for the starlet, but seeing as itll be some time before that needs them, and one look at stock ke70 brakes scared me..... i decided to go for those just so happned i had some TRD shocks lying around tha i didnt fit to my previous AE92..... measured them up.... and with 52mm spacers they fit... so i thought why not! future plans for this involve towing and carrying stuff around.... so bigger brakes seemed like a good idea. then found i needed to lengthen the arms to fix the massive positive camber those struts gave it! and rear sway bar is needed for balance as linking the front bar like i have increases its effect. plus the bigger diff means it wont blow up as much :D yes i have plans for more power, a stock 4k is not enough!! they involve a 5k, rebuild, and a certain accessory that previously lived in an AW11 MR2 :evil:

more progress. had it on its wheels for the first time last night. didnt get pic as no room to roll it outside, and theres another POS next to it in the shed :twisted: so finished the rear end, put the brakes together. f*** i HATE drums brakes :evil: made up front sway bar links and mounts link front links not far off now! :D

some progress! have been getting a few things done.... got my front arms back from testing, all sweet there. rear sway bar is now done. well will be when the paint dries and i can bolt it up! diff mount swaybar link and body mount got the wheels blasted and painted have now got/located all the parts i need to finish, i think!! so on schedule to hit the road around the 20th of next month

well thought id let you all know whats put a halt to my starlet project..... on stands bought for a massive $400 running gear was removed to go into a morrie minor. hence its missing some major and some weird components. mmmboost sold me a 4k, already had a k50 lying around, and scrounged an S leaf housing and a complete ae85 diff so mix and match with. WDE_BDY found the correct (i hope!) drive shaft at a wreckers so that should arrive next week. (huge thanks man!!) freind of mine with a overrated ke70 liftback is coming over monday so i have an example to work with when trying to sort the engine bay wires out. so shouldnt be too far off..... MODIFICATIONS: we all know stock ke70s suck.... so I'm leaving the engine stock as a rock. for now! front suspension consists of: aa63 struts, rebuilt with TRD inserts, cobra springs, mount shop top hats, aa63 brakes and Revhead adjustable arms. front sway bar links changed from stock arm to bar, to strut to bar links rear is lowering blocks, 16mm sway bar and yet to be decided shocks. may go panhard bar aswell in the futre. also using a te71 brake booster, and mitsi FWD steelies. some other pics: painted arm diff brakes finished arms inner arm astina section inside assembly 4k powah!!! made the arms my self, used adjustable section from an astina rear arm, cut ke70 arm, needed 40mm extra length anyway due to positive camber cause by the aa63 steering arms, welded the threaded sections onto an L section and welded it to the ke70 sections. spent hours mucking around with the first one to sort how to do it, then did the 2nd one in like 1/4 the time! lol. they go away for testing next week. so soon we will know if my welding is upto it!

hmmm i think getting a 4agze ecu to run on a 2t will be a pita and a large comprimise. 2t is AFM isnt it? they are a lot more adaptible to boost. some bigger injectors maybe all you need forget remapping toyota ecus they are made in such a way you can't, you need to rebuild the insides ac delco ecu is a possibility, as they are well cracked now, you really do want a fully tunable ecu i think 8 or so psi and stock compression....

did you aussies get a 4.1? all JDM ae86s are 4.3

fark u get everywhere! yes according to the NZCC article one of those 4 rally cars went to aussie. about 6 years ago i was in a shed, with 2 TE27s....... back then i didnt fully appreciate what they were :dance: at least one is still being used in nelson. i think the other one is still owned by the shed owner

yes there is. the pistons, 10.3:1 instead of 9.4:1 that, along with the smallport ecu = power

so, your running the smallport engine with the bigport ecu? use the small port ecu. will make more grunt!

email from who? again.. no toyota workshop manual or EPC shows 6 bolt.... and yes i mean ae86 and aw11 manuals and epc. the same flywheel is also listed from the begining of ae86 production. no options. ask toda how many 6 bolt 4age flywheels they have sold :)

very very very very few. i know of about 5 te27s. and 3 of them were factory rally cars.... one of which is for sale for over 30k......

proof please. there is NO evidence of that anywhere other than a coupla websites where people say "apparantly, but iv never seen one" there is no 6 bolt crank in ANY toyota service manual iv read, or on ANY model in the EPC its a myth

stay the hell away from super low kings, they are marginly better than bumpstops TRD do some good springs for the zze, that or tein. i wouldnt really consider anything else cept maybe eibach

there is no such thing as a 6 bolt 4age crank. if you have the 40mm crank you need bluetop rods and pistons. stop saying bigport.... they came as the bluetop, and the first redtops. use the injectors to suit the ecu you use. any 4age flywheel will fit it. if you can get a black top 20v one. they are the lightest. if you know of some small ports at wreckers.... see if you can get one of those. small port > bigport by a lot!

what model 86? bluetop? if you swap the whole fly/clutch yes it will. if its a later engine with the 42mm crank then the flywheels are the same there are differences in the boxes, but they are all interchangable, pretty much the same box. just beaware that some have 2 humps for the starter, one either side, like mouse ears. an engine with one starter hump (on the exhaust side) has a different water pipe on the back of the block when you fit a 2 hump box, the starter hump on the inlet side fouls on that pipe

i would think that maybe its extreme body roll rather than on two wheels. you will NOT get on two wheels in the wet unless you hit something. you just will not have the grip needed. btw.. to all you using king springs...... theyre are much much better options out there! a spring is not just a spring

stock ecu cannot be chipped it has to be rebuilt. you can get massive gains with a complete ecu such as a link. i had a SARD ecu on mine,dyno proven 12% gain in hp and torque. used less fuel too. in short the stock tune isnt the best. no details on porting yet as it hasnt been finished. we sent both heads to a very good engine guy over here and asked him to flow them and pick one to develop. he sent back the black top saying while its ports are very good, the combustion chamber isnt and he can make the silvertop ports a lot better. i beleive he is only modifying the exhasut side. engine will be revved to about 9000 with an aim of 180-200hp

yes the black top rod isnt as strong as the silver top one if you are building a race engine the u NEED the silvertop rods. if its a street car then no need as u can't sustain the RPMs needed to kill a black top rod you also need to make sure u have enough oil in it, a stock 4age sump isnt really big enough for high revs/high gs. its only the rods that are weaker. interestingly we just had the blacktop and the silver top flowed. the silver top head turns out to be a better start for a race engine due to the better combustion chamber and the smaller exhast ports. you can port the ports but u can't mod the chamber...

3rd gear syncros is very very common on the c series i beleive its due to the step in gear ratios making the syncros work harder. 2nd gear synco isnt as common, and the usual cause is the 1-2 redlight grand prix shift.....

nah not really, well not here :D the st215 can be manual, st246 tiptronic the tiptronic is fine, very good in fact, id own one

its a 100 series corolla wagon and GT-T caldinas did come manual

only the 8.9:1 have the cut outs, you can see them on the right hand piston in my pics. the pics at the very top of the thread are of 8.0:1 pistons which don't have cut outs