Smithius

snot35, i had the dizzy locked when the car was still naturally aspirated so i could check that it would still function correctly. didnt seem to make all that much difference to the way the car drove, just lost a bit of top end. i picked up a 40 dcoe weber carby the other day so it looks like i'll be modifying my pipe work soon to fit that. the only reason I'm going that wasy is i know that i can tune it, or i can take it somwhere to get tuned. no body wants to touch the su because they say its too hard to get right. i would keep the su if i wasnt having so many issues with the damn thing. i have a pretty good grasp on how to tune webers and i can buy jets for them at the local mechanic so should be easier to get going. thanks to all that help out with some great ideas cheers Matthew

kikn5k, i have a massive facet electric fuel pump with a fuel pressure reg set at 3 psi i think. anything higher and the needle and seat can't hold the pressure and fuel sprays out the overflow. The carby has a .100thou jet so its the correct size for the needle. everything in the carby that can be replaced has been, including the float. altezzaclub, i can watch the needle going up but i havent tried stoping it moving. i do have anouther needle that i can modify if need be. my dizzy has no advance mechanism in it at all. i have had the mechanical advance locked and the vacuum advance is not connected so the timing is set at a very conservative 10deg btdc. i should be able to crank nearly 20deg into it when i get it running properly. what oxy sensor are you running in yours? I'm not sure if mine is displaying right. at the moment I'm having trouble with fouling the spark plugs which sugest's that the mixture is too rich but it still does not want to rev for me. I'm not sure if I'm having problems with not enough spark?

I tried some thicker oil in the carby this morning, but it still runs lean on heavy throttle and starts to ping. I'm trying to source a dcoe weber so i can actually tune the stupid thing properly. There is no logical reason why it runs lean while free reving because the needle i have is a very rich needle. it is very hard to get the mixtures right at idle to the point that its fouling plugs really fast. Its almost like it doent have enough spark but the afr meter shows that the mixture go's lean as soon as you give it a big hit of throttle. So if you know of a dcoe weber sitting around the place I'm after one. Must be a weber so i can get the jets easy. Dellortos are to hard to source parts for. Cheers Matthew

cool, thanks guys for your answers. I will try putting some thicker oil in the carby. I'll try to get a throttle cable on it so i can take it for a spin

kikin5k, from my calculations it should be running around 6 to 7 psi of boost with the pulley that i made. I have a boost gauge but it wont show any boost while free reving for some reason? will yours produce boost while free reving?

alltezzaclub, i was under the impression that the further the piston opens, the richer the mixturew becomes? I have a jaycar oxygen sensor display hooked up to an o2 sensor out of a falcon (bosch) and i can get good idle mixtures (what do you recomend?) but as soon as i give the car a big bust of throttle it shows lean and i get detonation. Now all of this is happening all while free reving. I have not driven the car yet because i do not have the throttle cable hooked up yet. I have the dizzy locked and set on 10deg btdc at the moment. I am having no luck with this at the moment and i am very close to ripping the su off it and putting a side draft webber on so i can tune it properly. I am pissed off because there is no reason why it shouldnt work as it has been done before. Cheers Matthew

I am currently running a 2 inch su of a rover that i hae fully rebuilt to go on my supercharged 4k. The setup as it currently sits is.. 2 inch SU carby SC12 toyota supercharger locked electronic dizzy basically stock internals apart from full rebuild with a cam and double valve springs Now the problem that i have is the piston in the SU will not open up enough to allow more fuel to pass into the carby. I have replaced the needle in the carby with one which i bought from a carby specialist who has tuned a couple of similar setups on corolla's and datsun's. Some were turbo and some supercharged but all ran an su of some descript and he ran this needle. The needle i have gives a good idle but taper's down quite quickly to give a rich mixture with more throttle. The problem is that i can get the car to idle properly and rev up slowly to around 6000 rpm so far, but if i give it full throttle, the piston does not open fully and the car only revs to around 3500rpm before leaning out and detonation kicks in. So this is one for the su experts out there becuase this one has me stumped. The motor previously ran twin 1 1/2 su and they ran perfectly and opened properly but this one has me stumped. Cheers Matthew As the motor was previously As it stands now

hey alltezaclub i have one of those jaycar afr meters and i was wondering how you hook up the o2 sensor to the display? the sensor i have is out of my old mans NA fairlane, and it has 3 wires coming from the sensor. It has 2 black wires and one white. I'm thinking that the white wire is the sgnal wire to give the 5v output and one of the black wire is 12v and the other a ground wire. Any ideas? I like the air box around the su's, looks good

Sounds easy enough. So around 20 to 25 before top dead center. That seems fairly well advanced. I thought you were supposed to use less advanced timming in a boosted application. What do the dizzys advance to when running vacuum?

I'm in the process of supercharging my 4k and i want to know how to lock the dizzy. The dizzy is an internal ignitor electronic one. I think its 5k? Also what sort of timing figures should i be running once its supercharged? And yes i have used the search function but i can't be bothered skiming through endless pages of useless info if someone can point me in the right direction straight up. This might be one for Tazrx? Cheers Matthew

Vehicle information: Dec 1989 NA S2 Ford Fairlane 3.9L Multipoint Injected 6 (Economical) 4 speed Automatic White Immaculate Grey Velour Trim Climate Control (new compressor and regas 12 months old) Cruise Control Power Steering (new pump 6 months old) CD Player Power Windows Power Mirrors Immobiliser Heavy Duty Towing Pack (Transmission Cooler Fitted) All Springs and Shocks replaced with Peders Heavy duty items (good for towing but still provides comforatable ride) Nudgebar Bridgestone Tires only traveled 15,000kms Registered Until June This car is in immaculate condition, always been well looked after by owner of 9 years. This is the perfect vehicle for someone who is looking to do a bit of towing as the suspension has been fitted with uprated springs and shocks by Pedders. This gets rid of the troublesome self leveling suspension. Has been fitted with nolathane bushes all round and k-mac camber adjusters. This is my old mans car, gets wicked econemy for a big ass car. Perfect for towing a car trailer or a caravan. Always serviced, lots of new bits. Condition:Immaculate condition. Price:$3500 ono Location:Camden Park, Adelaide Contact: Call Chris during business hours on 8150 1028, after hours on 8294 7724.

So all 3 lines should be teed together? If i could have a look at your setup some time a bit closer it would be greatly appreciated Cheers Matthew

Yeah 1JZKE55 i was thinking of doing that but the otherway around. I might machine up a v belt pulley to suit the supercharger, I'm pretty sure that a v belt pulley should be sufficient for the amount of boost I'm going to run. I'm not sure if the SC14 is the same but what do the 3 or 4 little vacuum hoses do on the SC12? I havent really looked at it closely but as far as i can tell they do nothing? Cheers boys

yeah it should do, i have a 3k and a 4k manifold here and they are both the same, so i hope that answers your question

Before anyone says use the search button, i have and after a good hour and a half of sifting through endless post i need to get some straight answers if posible. I have jus bought an SC12 supercharger to go on my 4k and i was wondering what pulley everyone is using on the front of the supercharger? My plan is to use the aircon pulley on the front of the crank but i would like to know if there is a simple soultion to the pulley on the supercharger? Can i just use the pulley of a corolla aircon compressor or is something of another model ans easier fit? I am a machinst so i can modify stuff pretty easy but a direct, or nearly, fit would be awsome. Also what sort of boost are you getting out of the setup that you are using? Cheers in advance Matthew

yeah that heat shield made a huge difference, but it was a pain to make and even harder to fit. and the thermo fan is awsome, allows the motor to rev alot easier.

i run twin su's on my 4k, on a lynx manifold, and i don't run spacers. I don't see the need for them and they will just push the carbys closer to the strut tower.

yeah i know it was stuffed before hand but the springs have made the problem a bit more noticeable. here is a photo of it as of this morning, so you can see how it sits. Cheers again

Nice ride mate, should be awsome when your done. You wanna do the body work and paint on mine. I fitted those front springs that you made for me, my brother David got them through you. They are so much better than the stockys but my shocks are screwed now. So cheers for that. Might have to acctually meet one day and compare wagz Cheers Matthew

Yeah block of all the other crap, its a waste of time. Just soak the carby in kerosene, and give it a scrub with a tooth brush. But carby cleaner is the best

I'm going to say that its way to large for the little 1.3. the exhaust housings are masive compared to the ct12 turbo because the rotarys flow an awsome amont of exhaust gasses compared to anything of a similar size id say something like a t25 of a ca18 or sr20, shoulb be plently of those around cheap, the rb20 turbo would probably be okay aswell because the exhaust housing is relativly small, but it will be laggier than the ct12

well today i went to a local parts store and one of the guys there has been playing with corolla's a bit and he said that there are two different gaskets for 4k's. now the difference is very small, but some of the studs in the bottom of the 4k's are different between models. there is a sump gasket to suit all 4k's from 1978 to 1983 then anouther one for 4k's from 1983 to 1987. i thought that they would all be the same but seeing as the motor in my car is from a 1984 KE70 rolla the gasket i have is the wrong one. so now i have the correct one we shall se if it makes any difference

just new brembo rotors, they are to fit a ke55 i got them from a mate through Sprint auto. they are nothing special, still solid's, no slots i don't think i would recomend them because they acctually only have 1mm thickness to machine off if need be, where as the stock toyota ones have 4mm i think

definantly didnt use to much selant and i torqued the sump down to correct specs. i might give toyota a call. i only want to have to do this once, don't want to have to pull the motor again so id rather spend a bit more and seal it properly than have oil leaks. Cheers guys, keep the sugestions coming Matthew

I built a new 4k for my car a few months ago since then it has done around 500kms and the sump gasket is leaking. when i put the gasket on it seemed to be a bit large, like it had been streched but i used it anyway with sealant on bothsides. what I'm wondering is if there is a "top of the range" gasket that is better than the shit that i have now. the gasket on there now is a durapro jobbie which is acl but the gasket kit was sitting around for a while. cheers matthew