Smithius

Ok so i went to get my cam reground the otherday by a bloke that the engine machinist recomended. I was going to send it away to get ground by Camtech to 609 specs but the price was a little bit to expensive ($235) not to mention the hassle of postage. When i gave him the data for the camtec grind he said that he couldnt match it but he had a grind which he had done before for a few tough street motors so here is the specs.... Timing Inlet Exhaust 35/72 73/34 [email protected] 230 230 Adv Duration 287 287 Lobe Centre 109 Inlet lift a TDC .065" Valve lift .393" .393" Aparently it is a Waggot 35/70 grind cam but i havent really been able to find any data on this cam So what do you think? Hopefully it should give me a bit of get up and go. I should mention that i have had the block bored and honed 40thou over, new cam bearings fitted, new pistons/rings, new bottom end bearings, head has been reconditioned with new heavier valve springs and i am running twin 1 1/2 inch SU's. Just incase you want your cam ground i got mine done by Chris at C and M Engines at Smithfield. Cost was only $135 and it only took 2 days for him to do it. Cheers Matthew

Sorry to bring up an old post but I'm doing this now and i wondered if it matters what end you put the shim on the spring. If you put it the end of the spring where the split pin is nothing will retain the spring but the walls of the pump body. If you put it the other end the spring will still be retained by 15mm or so in the relife valve plunger? I have included a crappy drawing to illistrate what i mean

put the carby on a level surface and set the float so that it is also level when it is supported by the needle and seat spring. Easy as that

good luck with the search. I happend to find mine on ebay. The bloke didnt know what they were off of and i got them for 70 bucks. rebuilt them for 100 and made up some linkages and away she go's. Makes quite a bit of difference. Better than the 32/36 that i had on my last one. Very smooth but its a bastard to get started when cold because i have no choke

and the daily weapon

more photo's

After Selling my orange KE55 (stupid stupid me) i had been wanting to get myself anouther rolla for a bit of a project car. Mostly i wanted one so that i could have a go of building a tuff cammed motor by myself. Well I managed to get a 4K off the forum for $50 with a Ke70 4 Speed so all i needed was a shell to jam it into to get it running. Meanwhile one of the boys at work had bought a rusty Ke55 for a run around, in between decent cars, it got sold to one of the other workmates and now i have it. It has got so much rust over the rear wheel arches that i don't know what to do. Its a nasty yellow colour but it is running and it has a 5 speed (although it doesnt really like changing gears fast). So the specs are... 1980 KE55e 4K-c with 5 Speed Aircon 15 inch Silvia wheels Noisy rear shock bushes and recently fitted....... twin inch and a half SU Carbys Ive included a few photo's of the car, a photo with my KE55 and my sisters KE35 (which was mine but it was yellow when i had it) and my younger brothers KE70. I also included a photo of my daily driver because i can. I have pulled the spare motor that i have apart and I'm about to get the cam reground to Camtech 609 spec and have the bottom end rebored so that i can re assemble with oversized pistons and new bearings and the like Cheers Matthew

Just to make it easier, the throtle wheel off a gemini carby bolts onto the weber with no dramas.

Awsome. I'm very interested in how this thing is going to turn out. Should be interesting how much power you make out of this thing. Just so i don't have to search back through the whole thread, what compression ratio are you running?

Update Required......

use a relay so that the fan turns off when you turn the key off. just in case you forget

would you be able to post up some pics, or send them to me a [email protected], of how your cable is joined to the linkages. its got me stuffed how to do it. Cheers Matthew

whats going on? have you got this thing started yet? update update update......

and the throtle shafts are bronze or brass (i forget)

ah the problem with that is the su's work the oposit way to the asian. thanks for th wheels by the way. got the rubber off today going to grit blast them during the week and hit them with some paint

Ive been in sydney for a week so havent had time to play. I was wondering how people got the throttle cable to work properly as the linkages were crap and didnt come with that part. Any ideas? Photos? Cheers matthew

i got them of ebay for a pricely sum of $77.76 on the manifold. I just finished rebuilding them myself today and they have come up sweet. Rebuild kits cost me about 50 each with new oversized throttle shafts. Just have to rework the linkage setup and ill put them on. The info that you have would be greatly appreciated

when i had mine i was running 140 in the primary and a 132 in the secondary i think. you just need to stuff around a bit. its a pain but it should come good in the end. i changed my jets so many times. i even had main jets out of a falcon weber at one stage. i think that they are 210 or something like that. bit too much fuel

ok cheers Taz ill see if i can get a hold of him

Here's the deal... I have just purchased a set of twin inch and a half su's on a manifold of ebay and i would like to know any particular tricks or information about setting them up. I have messed around with different jet sizes on webers but i have never had and expeience with su's or any twin carbys for that matter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. For the moment they will be going on a stocka 3k (i know its overkill but i love the noise) but they will be going on a tuff cammed 4k that I'm in the process of building now. here is a pick of the pair. i know they look dirty but they will be getting a rebuild before fitment. Cheers Mattew

so if i get some 4K-U Pistons they will go straight into my 4K-C without any mods? on to the original rods? What sort of compresion ore we talking? how do i get 10:1? shave the head. Sorry for hijacking your post but i want more grunt from my 4k in NA form Cheers Matthew

just shove a weber on it. the standard carbys suck. i had the same problem with my 4k carby and a 3k carby that i put on my ke55. solution was to ditch the stock peices of crap and put on a 32/36. more power for around the same economy. or try a gemi carby. chep from wreckers and no need for the adaptor plate. just read the instructions that are on this site about fitting and you should be right. Cheer Matthew

How else were you intending to put it on? I thought that the stock manifold was the only way unless you were going to spend a fortune on making a custom one up. If you don't have a carby allready i have one for sale for $100 with a ramflo filter

ok then. is it just the early model manifolds that have that? I'm sure that my ke55 didnt have it? do i have to run it or car i just block it off. Probably going to go on a 4K or a 5K. Not quite sure yet. Cheers Matthew

it doesnt really worrie me about the linkages becase I'm a fitter and turner so i have a few ideas to ge the them working right. the manifold that he bought looks just like yours cameron. Can you tell me what the fitting is for on the front of the manifold? I should be able to run twin stock carbys of a KE3# 3k right? Cheers Matthew