machg

"+" it would be unique, "-" '16 valve' will be "F" series spec, i.e. low performance application, not "G" series goodness. Has anyone in OZ ever tried "de-stroking" a 4age? Also if you have the money and don't mind cross breeds: a Suzuki G13B engine would go good and be interesting. You gotta check this bad boy out: http://www.bobnorwood.com/The%20Fastest%20...20in%20Utah.htm

Its funny (but a bit risky) if you get some twat sitting right up your arse and you have a nice, long, steep hill just around the corner..."ahh sorry mate, she's been having intermittent electrical problems" :jamie: Just swapped my RX7 for a bike, it used to shoot wicked sheets of flame out the exhaust, without even turning the ignition off! "Hey mate, I think there's something wrong with your car..." I laughed so hard, I cried.

Hope this week goes O.K., isn't too wierd, you've got lots of mates on here to support you if you need anything.

Turbo 'busas can punch out 400hp if built right, who needs torque?

I thought this was a good basic explanation of EFI principles: http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htm

...well 1st in OZ? http://www.wheelsjamaicahost.com/wheels_fo...p?topic=98151.0

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=10940 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=12422 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=18017 or be original: I don't know if anyone has converted a Starlet GT engine to rwd yet (4EFTE) but if it can be put into an AE82, there must be a way to put one in an early 'rolla, :)

So as a general rule; it should be able to run the fuel control side of any N/A 4 cylinder engine using cheap(ish) and readily available sensors?

How did you go with sensors, did it come with them?

G'day all, I have found an old Microtech D4S ecu for sale quite cheap. I will buy it if I can use it. It is set-up for 4 cylinder, naturally aspirated and switch type TPS. Possible uses are: 3T with race cam, exhaust and EA falcon TB efi, 2TGUE similar spec, but as a piggyback with factory EFI/ECU or as a piggyback with the 2TGUE standard setup but with a turbo. If anyone has actual experience with one of these, I would appreciate hearing from you. I am also concerned I won't be able to find the correct sensors to make the thing work. It was running in a series 3 Nissan Bluebird (not sure what engine). I know it is fuel only, but there are other ways of fixing ignition timing. LOL Cheers, Mark G.

Yoda found a uni joint for me (thanks once again mate) started fitting the new column. Should be able to get hold of the original dash and its loom so I swapped key barrel and switch block over to the new column. Everything fitted perfectly, gotta love Toyotas, LOL.

Wow, those rims look awesome, make a huge difference.

Thanks for that, I haven't seen his set-up yet, I'll go and look now. Cheers, Mark

So its rust free? LOL. Not my cup of tea, but you can't knock the cars condition.

- 4 coats = 2 coats + wetsand 120 grit + 2 more coats. - I hope the top bit won't be too hard to make air tight...

Ohhhhh sweeeeeeeeeeeet! Thanks for that, will be up North next month (early November) I'll pick it up then. Cheers, machg

I am starting to get a handle on the roller technique now. Getting the right consistency of paint, and speed of application seems to be the key. I stripped the roof back to bare metal (again) because I wasn't happy with the result. Bonnet has now had 4 coats with a 120 grit wet sand between. Tomorrow (weather and health permitting) 200 grit wet sand and another couple of coats. Hopefully by the time I finish this car, it will look half decent and I'll have enough skills to do a really good job on lazarust. Bought an EA Falcon inlet manifold the other day, complete with single point EFI :hmm:

C'mon guys, I've tried most of the wreckers around Hobart with no success, someone must have a KE/AE7x lying around...

Ahhhh, good old Tassie motorsport, show up for the first time, get told nothing about how to do it, or get told 5 different things from 5 different people...(I could have won Modern Regularity at a race meeting at Symmons a few years ago, but wasn't told I had to nominate my lap time before the first run {its after the 1st run in Club Days}), oh well as long as you had fun.

5 hours to go back to bare metal, then 10 minutes with the trusty roller and rust convertor. :dance:

AFAIK offset should be close, both are rwd, could be wrong though...as long as you are talking series 1-3 Nissan Bluebird TRX, (and very limited edition 1st gen Pintara TRX) not the later FWD POS.

Did some more reading about the rollering (LOL, pun!) technique, I think I tried to go for too much coverage in one hit, so when weather permits I'm going to sand it right back and start again. The 'silver lining' is that even though it looks shit ATM, the new paint is rock hard, and is stopping moisture getting to the metal which is more than can be said of the previous paint job. I am impressed enough by the hardness of this stuff that I am definitely going to use it on lazarust (black, on the newly stripped floor)

Pics, more info?

Yes. its a KE70 column. I'm in Tasmania, so I will check some local wreckers tomorrow, if I have no luck I'll get one of yours. Cheers, Mark

Thanks to Toy-yoda for the column, has anyone got the bottom uni joint/coupling to complete my steering setup? Have a little cash if required, LOL.