machg

:jamie:

...project "slab" coming soon... Thank you "jesus" you have taught me much about life, death, engine swaps and general dodginess, LOL, your sacrifice will allow "lazarus" to live on... Interesting info (and cheeky preview) for all: TE72 and AE71 wagon wheel bases appear to be absolutely identical!

I have everything BUT the manifold (ECU, loom, injectors), try the guy that started this post: http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=410433 Jamie is his name I think, he might have one. Postage to Greece is going to be $$$$$$$$$$.

A bit unusual for me, but I actually bought NEW parts today! LOL Seals for the 3tgte injectors. Total cost less than $10! How "un-dodgy" is that? Not my usual style at all

Thanks guys, went back to seller, he agrees, its not a 3TGTE dump pipe, hopefully the 3TGTE one will be one the way soon. Picked up the MT-4, loom and 3TGTE manifold complete with everything needed to wire her up, WOOOOOOHOOOOOO! Getting real excited now, can see some sneaky late night exhaust-system-less runs coming. LOL Then maybe transplant of driveline into something slightly more modern and less ugly...

PMd you

Don't crush it yet, I might be interested, what is UR address? If I like and can organise tow for not too much $$$, I'll give you a slab 4 it!

Having interesting dramas with 'factory' 3tgte setup, will let pictures explain... ... dump pipe can only be bolted 1 way to turbo, looking at 3tgte pics, turbo is facing the correct way in engine bay, it physically fits O.K. but there is no clearance between exhaust manifold and dump pipe. Before I get grinder out and force it to fit, why has this happened? Maybe its a "late" CT20 turbo on an "early" 3tgte exhaust manifold? Please help, have just about got everything sorted to turbo it, now this shit happens. :dance:

google "rustoleum" :y: I used Brightside Interlux which is a marine enamel, also consider using the paint they use for heavy industrial purposes - limited colour range but extremely hard wearing finish.

Yeah, something different, but I think Hyundai Excels are 4x100, so the stud pattern wont match and offset is probably wrong too.

Nah, speed first, paint later, LOL. Gotta have UR priorities right!

...because it sticks to whatever is underneath it so well.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=22733 :bash: 1/. Its nowhere near $50 once you factor in all the hidden costs (thinners, wet and dry papers of various grades) 2/. It is not easy to get a really good result, I had to "nuke" two coats and start again until I started to get a handle on the technique. 3/. I takes SHITLOADS of time to get a good result. 4/. I believe it is possible to get a decent result (the paint does set "hard" and is shiny) 5/. I don't believe that even if you did everything perfectly, the result would be as good as a GOOD (i.e. $$$$$$$) spray job, but feel it would probably be close to a cheap spray job, but would last longer. 6/. I will continue to do it because A: I'm a tightarse! B: I'm not overly obsessive about looks. I will probably continue doing the last couple of coats by spraying. 7/. The key to getting a decent result seems to be knowing how much to thin the paint down, and how much to apply at one time. Hope this helps. Mark

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=26671 4AGE Twincam front drive bits

Yeah, I'm not much into looks, if you want to swap rocker covers we could probably do that, you would have to pay all costs though. I have a fairly overrated set of plug leads spare, I payed $50 for them, you can have them for that, I'd put them in with the rocker cover. Completely up to you, thanks for your interest in my car.

4 hose clamps, the last one is "structural" LOL about 5mm clearance to radiator top view I hope this will be enough surface area for effective cooling. Might go with some sort of stealth scoop setup.

Yeah, gonna stick with stock boost for a while, might keep the Malpassi in mind if I get greedy, LOL.

Fitment all depends on the tyres, offset and rim width. I am running 15" x 6" Nissan Bluebird TRX rims on my TE72 without spacers, but I only have about 3/8" clearance to the struts with 195 50/R15 tyres. I get very minor scrubbage on full lock.

Cheers, guys, I am just going to be patient then. Considering the ECU has 3TGTEU maps already installed, it should be safe enough to drive with everything installed (including the same injectors as it was tuned with) if I take it easy, until I get it tuned properly, afterall I am dropping 200cc, so there is no way it should run lean. I suppose I should get the 3T fuel pressure regulator too, or is it exactly the same as a 2TGEU one?

I suspect the car is still running quite rich (only getting 350 kms per tank) so I am thinking hook up all the turbo stuff as is, retard the timing and taking it easy on standard boost. Then tune, wind up boost etc. when I go aftermarket ECU. Or should I just wait until I have the ECU before bolting on the turbo? If that's the case; bolt up aftermarket ECU first and get it running then add turbo, or bolt up all the turbo stuff and ECU at same time? (I am looking at an ECU which already has 3TGTEU maps installed)

Finished modding the sump for oil return for turbo. Yes, you can remove the sump without removing the engine, No, it is not easy!

Re - Earlier post: No interest = Egay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=220381277041 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=220381279463

LOL, just kidding

Pretty sure it will physically fit in most corollas, doubt it will be a bolt in affair. At a minimum I'd say fabrication of engine and gearbox mounts and a hydraulic clutch conversion will be required.

Picked up a 3TGTEU Turbo, manifold and dump pipe today. Woot, Woot!