Banjo

I presume the wheel base dimension of the waggons, were a little greater than the sedan, so the tail-shaft would be longer, I would think. Have a read through this post of mine, from years ago; where I basically found there was little difference in any of the gearbox "length" dimenions, although gearbox mounting points could vary slightly. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74057-auto-to-manual-ke-55/#comment-714992 The only dimension, that could possible affect the swap; would be the distance of the tailshaft flange on the front of the diff, to the centerline of the diff, where the axles are. There were the "banjo" type" diffs, which usually were fitted to fully imported Jaspanese models. Quite often, Aust/ AAMI assembled Corollas, had Borg Warner diffs with split cases. Actually, I've got one of both of those, in the garage; so next time I'm out there, I'll take a measurement off both. The other way, is to temporarily mount the gearbox & diff, You are thinking of fitting, & measure the distance between tailshaft flanges. There is some adjustment in the splines on the front of the tailshaft, where it slides into the gearbox rear end, but I wouldn't use them unless about 3/4s of their spline lengths, were in contact. Cheers Banjo

Extra $ 250 gets You an AUTOMATIC ! When I bought my KE-30 (1974) 2 door from a little olde lady, it had a 2 speed auto in it, & 96K klms on the speedo. She couldn't have thrashed it; even if She wanted to. Didn't take long before I fitted a 5 speed gear box. Cheers Banjo

Hi Erica, This thread started nearly 15 years ago. I would hope that it has been sorted by now ! Have You recently had the gearbox out, & any clutch work or replacements carried out ? Cheers Banjo

Came across this March 1968 Modern Motor magazine advertisement, this afternoon; which will bring a smile to some faces. Now Toyota Corolla 1100 gives you the choice - all synco 4-speed gearbox, or brand new-fully automatic Toyoglide transmission ! Slip the stubbyToyoglide lever into "drive". No need to change for traffic lights or hills. Automatic kick-down gives first gear acceleration for any emergency. Slip into "L" and Corolla holds first gear. You can't change from neutral to reverse accidentally. "P" for Park brake on the transmission. Flashing performance from Corolla's 60 horsepower engine. 36 m.p.g. plus fuel ecomomy. Built-in heater/ demistor . . . hipster reclining bucket seats . . . windscreen washers . . . 2 speed wipers . . . and more. Now have your excitement machine without changing gears ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Tony, Have a read through this post, about 8 years ago, where this subject was covered. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73368-4k-change-pistons-to-flat/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/40853-what-pistons-are-these/#comment-433565 There are two types of 4K blocks. You have a simple 4K block. There is another 4K-U block, which developes more HP. I have one of those in my KE-30 2 door. There is a picture in the Toyota yellow K Series engine repair manual, which shows a picture of the mark on the piston, that must be positioned to the front of the engine. It depicts two A & B type pistons; the only difference; one being flat topped; & the other is partially dished; exactly the same as your photo. The little single dot indentation in your pistons, should point towards the front of the engine. There was also a 4K-C engine produced, that according to the Toyota workshop manual; were only exported to Australia & Sweden. The C, usually meant that the engine complied to Californian emissions regulations; as that state was, I believe; was the first state in the USA, to create emission requirements for gasoline engines. Cheers Banjo

Well, finally got around to wiring up the COP mounting bar. I wanted to make all the wiring from the COPs hidden, inside the rectangular section of the aluminium mounting tube. However, as the COP shafts pass through the rectangular section; it doesn't leave much room to squeeze all the wires past COPS near the end where the wires, all exit from the tube. I also didn't want to squib on the wiring size, for two reasons. I wanted pretty heavy wire for the ground & +12V supplies to the COPs, as there are reasonably high currents involved, & we don't want any voltage drops. Anyway, it all just fitted, so pleased with the result. The alternative was to add another wiring conduit or tube; & that would have detracted from the clean lines of the COP mounting bracket. Have powered them all up, & had them sparking perfectly with a test circuit, to fire the COPs, one after another. I also needed to identify the 4 off trigger wires, as I used the same colour (blue) for all trigger wires Because the spark plugs on the K Series engine, were recessed into the head, I wanted to seal this area, around the COP long tube; so no rubbish got down inside there, around the spark plugs. I couldn't find a commercial rubber bung of any kind on the nett, to accomplish this. On the original K series distributor HT leads, this "seal" was moulded into the leads. I cut the ends off an olde set of leads, & with a very sharp hobby knife cut out the inner part, so it left a hole to fit snuggly around the COP shaft. Just have to now fit it to my 4KU in my KE-30, & work out where to terminate & mount a connection block for the wiring & plug & socket, so the COP assembly, can easily be removed from the engine, so the spark plugs can be removed. It may however, be just as simple, to remove the 4 off COPs, & then remove the spark plugs, without removing the complete assembly. Once I've got it on the engine, I'll make that decision. I also found that the COPs mounting bolts, & the gold COP mounting frame, were not grounded ! There was about 6-7 Megohms resistance between them & the head. The COP mounting frame, is attached to the rocker cover. The rocker cover is actually isolated from ground, via the big rubber gasket around it's bottom edge, & the two bolts that attach it to the head. I found a little earthing strap, from the rocker cover to the head, solved this issue. One of the common issues with COPs, on modern engines; is that they overheat. This is particularly common, in twin overhead cam engines, wher the COPs are "buried" down inside the head body, with little or no air flow around them. This will not be an issue, with my setup, as there wil be plenty of air flow over almost all the COP assembly. Once it is on the car & in use, I'll check the temperature of No:1 & No:4 COP bodies, & see whether there is any difference. Cheers Banjo

Hi John, Sorry, I went & looked again, & You are right that Bunnings do not seem to stock it. My error. When I took a look again the one Bunnings market, looks very similar, in a yellow & read container, & is called Ranex RUSTBUSTER.

Thanks Pete ! I must have been living under a rock; as I've never come across KBS Rust Blast previously. Sounds like good stuff. It's even available at Bunnings, apparently. This is what Google says about it . . . Thank You for that pointer. I'll try it out very shortly, as my bonnet has a few sections that need treatment. Cheers Banjo

Glad You are into it ! Hope is addictive, & not too despressing. I'd really be concentrating on the structural bits first, as they are the most important, after all. Shame to do all the surface & visual pieces, & then find later on, that there is a structural section, beyond repair, & that all the visual; non structural clean up, was in vain. A simple rotisserie would be good, so it is easy on your back. No fun working upside down, when You get to the underfloor area. Metal Rotisserie Wooden Rotisserie Cheers Banjo

Hi Tony, My guess is; that now You will want to calculate the new "compression ratio", of your 60 thou bored engine. This is a little more complicated, depending on whether you have flat top pistons; or pistons with domed or concave top faces. This calculation, should also take into account the thickness of the head gasket, once torqued down, to be truly accurate. Here is a variety of sites tackling this question, if Your interest requires this information. How to Calculate the Compression Ratio Obviously, if you bore the engine, & leave the combustion area in the head untouched; the compression ratio, will increase. Question is; by how much ? This link here on Rollaclub, from over a decade ago, might help ? https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69246-4k-engines/ Cheers Banjo

The volume of a single cylinder is Pi x r squared x the stroke. 22/7 x bore/2 x bore/2 x stroke. For a standard 4K engine, the bore is 75mm & the stroke is 73mm Substituting these into the above equation give (22/7) x (75/2) x (75/2) x 73 = 3.1429 x 37.5 x 37.5 x 73 = 322638.33 cu mm Divide that by 1000 to obtain cubic centimeters & you obtain 322.64 cu cm. That is for one cylinder. To calculate that for 4 cylinders, simple multiple by four. 322.64 x 4 = 1290.56 cc, which is what the good book says the capacity is for a standard 4K engine. Now simply add 1.524mm (60 thou) to the bore dimension, & recalculate. 3.1429 x (75.00+ 1.524)/2 x (75 +1.524)/2 x 73 = 3.1429 x 38.26 x 38.26 x 73 = 335.85 cu cm Multiple that by 4 & you get a new volume of 1343.4 cc. Subtract the original standard volume = 1343.40 - 1290.56 = 52.84 cc. or an extra 13.21 cc to each cylinder's swept bore capacity. Yep, basically, the same as Simons calc. Cheers Banjo

I'm intrigued now; as to why all three (3) brand new mechanical fuel pumps, mechanically failed; all with damaged diaphrams, in a short period of time; when You had utilised the spacer block to mount them off the engine block mounting point ? The only thing I could suggest; was that the curved arm on the aftermarket ones, was a different shape or profile, to the Toyota original supplied & fitted pump ? My KE30 with a 4K-U engine has been running a mechanical pump for 20 years, I've owned it, without issues. They are not real good at drawing/sucking, without priming; but once that line has got fuel in it, they never stop or fail; from my experience. Got me beat ! However, I applaud your determination to fit a good electric fuel pump, in the boot area, close to petrol tank. It is the way to go. P.S. In a petrol / carby engine, the fuel pump is one item, you can actually drive, without using one at all. Many years ago, in an olde English car, the S.U. fuel pump failed, in the middle of no where. A small plastic jerry can, was roped to the roof rack, & a plastic tube run from said plastic jerry can, to the carby fuel inlet. A quick suck on the tube to get the fuel running down the plastic hose, & we drove all the way from Brisbane to Sydney, without so much as a hiccup ! I think it is referred to, as "gravity feed". True story. Cheers Banjo

No, No, No ! New mechanical fuel pumps do not fail like that, or so quickly. I think I know what is your problem ? Not supplied with any of the new mechanical fuel pumps You have purchased in the past, is a fibre spacer, about 12mm think, that fits between the fuel pump flange, & the side of the engine block, where the pump fits. If you omit this spacer, the fuel pump arm is "too close" to the offset lobe on the camshaft, that operates the mechanical fuel pump. This means the diaphram in the pump travels too far up, & either tears the diaphram, or breaks the pump. Put the spacer back in, & your mechanical fuel pump issues will disappear, immediately. Some lots of replacement K Series replacement pumps are sold with two (2) off gaskets. They are not being generous. The two gaskets are for fitting to both sides of the spacer block. I've even seen one pump advertised, which includes the spacer block. Guaranteed to solve your problem ! Cheers Banjo

Don't forget, that our friend here (Knibusu), does not have fuel injection. His car has a simple carby. These type of 12V fuel pumps only typically produce 4-6 PSI. They are however, much better at "pushing fuel" than sucking/drawing it; which is a good reason to locate the pump, in the boot area, close to the fuel tank. However, this "Facet" brand pump, is not a cheap pump; & is quite sophistcated. Apparently, as soon as there is sufficient back pressure it turns itself off, or reduces it's output, according to this discussion I found on the web, at the link below. I know even the early SU fuel pumps used to basically turn off, or reduce the flow, as my Dad had an early Morris straight 6 (like the Worsley 6/80), & the SU fuel pump was on the passengers side on the rear of the engine bay, & you could hear it ticking away, & changing it's beat. The SUs were not very good at sucking either. I think on the very first Minis, the SU was up front; but later Minis, had the SU, right at the rear, near the tank. https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/19591-Facet-electric-pumps-Fuel-return Cheers Banjo

The more I think about this technique, the more questions it raises, in my mind. The motor racing industry, may well require such a device, but for a normal road car, the implications of low or lack of oil pressure, whilst driving, & the engine just shutting itself off, outside of your control; could be extremely dangerous. The oil safety light on the dash of most cars is really all that You require. Have a read of the comments at this link. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/wiring-electic-fuel-pump.43215/ When you first turn the ignition key "On"; before trying to start the car, the dash oil pressure warning light comes on, which tells you, "that the oil press sensor is working". When you start the engine & the oil pressure is generated, the warning light goes out; & You definitely know that the oil pressure is present & working OK. I suggest, that if You are concerned, or interested about oil pressure, in your engine; that You fit an oil pressure guage, to your dash area. You will learn more about oil pressure watching that over time. I simply think, that providing your car & engine, the ability to shut down the engine, whilst You are driving; "outside your control", could be downright dangerous. eg: You are highway driving, at say 100 klm/hr. Your oil level in the engine, is a bit on the low side. You approach a big curve in the road, & the sideward force moves the oil in the sump, sideways; & the intake pickup for the oil pump, grabs some air, as it is now not totally covered with oil. An instantaneous switching of your oil pressure safety switch, turns the engine off. You are on a curve, at elevated speed. The possible ramifications could well prove fatal, if You lose control. I could not imagine a rally drivers, ever considering fitting such a protection device to their engine. That engine gives one cough, whilst drifting sideways with opposite lock, on a dirt road, among the trees, is a complete "no no" to my mind. I'm open to others point of view, but personally, I do not think, it is a useful addition, to your road car. P.S. When assembling a fully reconditioned engine, all the bearing areas, are "assembled wet", with oil. The engine may also be turned over by the starter motor, without spark plugs or ignition connected, so all oilways in the block & head are filled. The only other situation, I can imagine, which might require such an action; is if an engine has been sitting for years, & is being started for the first time. Remove the plugs & turn the engine over, on the starter motor, is a common precaution. On top of that the Facet electric fuel pump, is a fairly expensive & highly sophisticated fuel pump, which is self adjusting, & provides a constant pressure, according to the maufacturers description. Would like to hear others thoughts on this matter. P.S. As a matter of interest; where did you mount the Facet Electronic fuel pump ? Is it in the boot area, adjacent to the fuel tank, or up in the engine bay somewhere, close to the engine proper ? P.S.S. Is this a transducer for an oil pressure guage ? Cheers Banjo

I really think there is something wrong with the circuit above, or the logic of operation. Did You obtain this circuit from this website link below ? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/oil-pressure-safety-switch-wiring-help.1112142/ Further down the page a relay is incorporated. I'll have a think about this. Is your purpose for fitting it, to not allow the engine to fire up, until the oil pressure during cranking, is enough to prevent a "dry cranking" situation. The needle valve in any carburetor usually stops any fuel from entering the carby, once the fuel bowl is full. The needle valve simply opens & lets more fuel in, once the fuel level in the carby bowel lowers slightly. This action keeps the fuel bowl constantly full, & to a certain level. Most engine regimes don't turn an electric fuel pump off. Are you trying to "stop the engine from starting", until the starter motor cranking, has built up some oil pressure ? As stated earlier, if You want to set this up as an accident scenario, where the fuel pump stops, on impact; then You need a G force sensor on impact switch, to turn the fuel pump off. I'll come back to You tomorrow, after I have a think about the logic behind this. I can see some need for an arrangement like this, in maybe a racing car; but not a road car. Cheers Banjo

Nice diagrams ! I'm assuming that this engine has a carby, & is not fuel injected, which use much higher pressure fuel pumps. There are two types of electric low pressure fuel pumps for carby fuelled engines. There is the electric rotary motor type, which just runs all the time, & there is the diaphram type (like the old British SU fuel pumps), which only power up & pump, when the pressure on the outlet drops. The most common form of "emergency cut out" switch for electric fuel pumps is an impact type switch. These are usually rated at around 10G force activation, in case of an accident, or collision. Just because a car is in an accident; does not mean that the engine will stop turning. I've seen a crash, where the engine just sat there & screamed; & the only way was to remove a lead from the battery. The last thing You want in an accident, is to have a fuel pump, continuing to pump fuel onto a hot engine, & creating/causing a fire. I'd check the transport website in your area, as to what they stipulate. Cheers Banjo

Not real sure what You are trying to advise ? When You turn the ignition key, to the start position, & the starter motor turns over; but when You release the key, the starter motor continues to turn ? I'd think it would more likely to be the starter motor itself. It might be that the throw-out solenoid, or something mechanical is worn, or at fault. Could also be an ignition switch mechanism gone ? First & easy test, as You think it might be electrical, is to remove the wire from the starter motor solenoid, & connect it to a 12V automotive bulb or test lamp to ground/earth/chassis. Test that it only lights, when the ignition switch is held against the return spring, in the "start" position. Not sure what You mean by, "I recently removed this wiring and I am not sure if it correctly done." The starter motor is permantenly connected to the +ve & -ve terminals of the battery. The starter solenoid, (within the starter motor) switches the +12V at the starter motor to the windings, inside the starter motor itself. Cheers Banjo

Should have the incremental rotary encoder arrive here this week, with a single "Z" pulse output, I can hopefully use as a CAS signal. I've decided to fit this dissy to my 4K-U engine in my KE-30, so I can do some real road testing on it, instead of on the 5K stationary test bed engine, in my workshop. I will need to change my single ignition coil over to COPs. I built a COP frame for the Denso COPs, a couple of years ago. It was a quick build in a couple of hours on a Sunday afternoon. That one is still in use on the Test Bed 5K engine stand. However, fitted to a road car, would require something a bit more rigid & strong, so I built one over the weekend, out of stock aluminium & few rivets & 6mm Riv-Nuts from Bunnings. It is quite rigid; as I pick up the whole head's weight, holding onto the aluminium bracket. Those two flat bar angled brackets from the rocker cove, are actuallt stainless steel. Just awaiting some DENSO 4 wire plugs for the COPs, so I can wire them all up. I hope to be able to feed the 3 wires to each COP, through the aluminiun channel, to keep it neat & out of sight. I've purposely made the COP mounting frame a little longer at each end, on purpose. It maybe; that on the engine, the frame vibrates a bit at a particular RPM, that might coincide with a resonant frequency of the frame & it's mounting brackets. If that eventuates, I can always run a couple of support bars down from the ends of the COP bracket, to the engine block below. Cheers Banjo

Hi All, I'm not into AI as yet, as I have enough on my plate each day, to keep me very busy. MicroSoft has added AI to a number of their products. I use MicroSoft WORD every day, in my business. The latest update of Word, includes an AI function called "Co-Pilot". Basically, You ask it to produce/write something about a particular subject, & it goes away, & in a very short time, will come back, with something it has created, based on it's scouring the web, & other resources at it's disposal, where it can "learn" about what You have asked it to do. So, I'm interested in upgrading older engines, with modern day ECUs, & precision control. Of late, I've been really investigating crank & camshaft triggering systems, & currently experimenting with using a incremental rotary encoder, installed inside a gutted dissy, (thanks Taz-Rx), to produce equivalent crank & CAS pulse for a Speeduino ECU. So in Microsoft Word I simply gave Co-Pilot this task . . . . . "Write an article on using an incremental rotary encoder as a triggering system for an automotive engine" Within about 5-10 seconds, Co-Pilot produced the following short discussion, about this subject (see below) _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Incremental Rotary Encoder as a Triggering System for Automotive Engines Innovative Solutions for Precision and Efficiency Introduction The automotive industry has seen exponential growth and technological advancements over the years. One such innovation is the use of incremental rotary encoders in engine systems to enhance performance, precision, and efficiency. This article explores the application of incremental rotary encoders as a triggering system for automotive engines, highlighting the benefits, functionalities, and implementation methods. Understanding Incremental Rotary Encoders Incremental rotary encoders are electromechanical devices that convert rotational motion into digital signals. These encoders operate by generating pulses in response to movement, which can be used to determine the position, speed, and direction of a rotating shaft. The working principle involves a disk with evenly spaced markings and a light source paired with a photodetector. As the disk rotates, the photodetector reads the markings and converts the interruptions into electrical pulses. Types of Incremental Rotary Encoders There are several types of incremental rotary encoders, each suited for specific applications: · Optical Encoders: Utilize light sources and photodetectors. Known for high precision and resolution. · Magnetic Encoders: Employ magnetic fields and Hall-effect sensors. Suitable for harsh environments due to their robustness. · Capacitive Encoders: Use capacitive sensing technology. Offer good performance with low power consumption. Application in Automotive Engines Incremental rotary encoders can play a pivotal role in enhancing automotive engine performance by providing accurate and real-time data on engine components' positions and speeds. Here’s how they can be effectively utilized: Triggering System for Engine Timing Engine timing is crucial for optimal performance, fuel efficiency, and emission control. Incremental rotary encoders can serve as excellent triggering systems for engine timing by: · Crankshaft Position Sensing: By measuring the crankshaft's position, encoders can ensure precise ignition timing and fuel injection. · Camshaft Position Sensing: Encoders can monitor the camshaft's position to synchronize valve operation with piston movement. Speed and Direction Monitoring Incremental rotary encoders can provide real-time data on the rotational speed and direction of various engine components. This information is vital for: · Engine Control Units (ECUs): ECUs can adjust engine parameters based on the data received from encoders, optimizing performance. · Diagnostics: Encoders aid in diagnosing issues related to engine speed and direction, facilitating timely maintenance interventions. Implementation in Automotive Systems Implementing incremental rotary encoders in automotive engines involves several considerations to ensure seamless integration and optimal functionality. Selection Criteria Choosing the right encoder depends on various factors: · Environmental Conditions: Opt for magnetic encoders in harsh environments due to their durability. · Resolution Requirements: Optical encoders offer high resolution, making them ideal for applications requiring precision. · Power Consumption: Capacitive encoders are recommended for systems where low power consumption is crucial. Installation and Calibration Proper installation and calibration are essential for the accurate functioning of encoders: · Mounting: Encoders should be mounted securely to prevent vibrations that could affect signal accuracy. · Alignment: Ensure that the encoder's disk is aligned correctly with the light source or magnetic sensor. · Calibration: Regular calibration checks are necessary to maintain optimal performance and accuracy. Benefits of Using Incremental Rotary Encoders The adoption of incremental rotary encoders in automotive engines offers several advantages: · Enhanced Precision: Accurate measurements of position and speed lead to improved engine timing and performance. · Real-time Data: Immediate feedback allows for timely adjustments and diagnostics. · Reduced Emissions: Optimized engine operation can contribute to lower emissions and better fuel efficiency. · Cost-effectiveness: Improved diagnostics and maintenance reduce long-term operational costs. Challenges and Solutions Despite the benefits, there are challenges associated with integrating incremental rotary encoders in automotive engines. These include: · Signal Interference: Electrical noise can interfere with the signal. Shielded cables and proper grounding can mitigate this issue. · Mechanical Wear: Continuous rotation can lead to wear and tear. Regular maintenance and high-quality materials can reduce this risk. · Temperature Variations: Extreme temperatures can affect encoder performance. Choosing encoders with suitable temperature ratings can help. Conclusion Incremental rotary encoders are revolutionizing the way automotive engines are monitored and controlled. Their ability to provide precise and real-time data on the position, speed, and direction of engine components makes them invaluable for optimizing engine performance, enhancing fuel efficiency, and reducing emissions. By understanding the types, applications, and implementation methods, automotive engineers can harness the full potential of incremental rotary encoders to drive innovation and efficiency in the automotive industry. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Next time I might ask it a question a little bit harder . . . . . like "How do You remove the camshaft sprocket cover, on a Toyota K Series engine, without removing the sump ?" Cheers Banjo

Hi John, Things are looking up, & possibilities with the guard & bonnet. To make You keep feeling good about your project, I suggest You have a look at this Corolla waggon, still in daily use in South America. It's a tradies daily drive ! https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/cc-capsule/cc-outtake-1977-toyota-corolla-wagon-one-hard-working-corolla/ Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo

Hi John, Just to inspire You, here a couple of pics of a couple of restored E10 Corolla 2 door waggons I found on the net. Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo

I went out in the shed tonite, & found a 3K early dissy, which had the narrow, yet deep main body. This dissy was in very good condition, but I gutted it completely, so I could determine, if the incremental rotary encoder, would sit neatly inside. Ah Yes ! I even found a jam jar lid, in my wife's kitchen cupboard, (She is out tonite) that fits perfectly, like it was made for it. I would have liked a dissy body, with a replaceable ball race bearing at the base; like the one in the 4AGE distributors, instead of the phosphor bronze ones fitted to all K series engines, I believe. However, this dissy shaft & sleeve bearing are in remarkable condition, so very happy with the fact, that the two parts, manufactured, many decades apart, are so complementary. Just have to be patient now, until the Omron incremental rotary encoder, with a single "Z" pulse per revolution arrives here, & I can take it to the next stage. Cheers Banjo

That's a very; very good sign, it is the clutch. You'll know instantly, once you get the full cable assembly out, & try to move the inner cable back & forth, whilst holding the outer sheath, in the other hand. I've seen them so tight, that you had to squirt WD40 down them, & wriggle the inner back & forth, before it would free up. Trick is, once You get it free up; to add copious amounts of light oil down inside the sheath, until it is free & offers no resistance. Cheers Banjo

It occurred to me, that there has to be someone out there in the big wide world, who has also seen the potential, of using an incremental rotary encoder, to basically be, an automotive "trigger wheel", & CAS signals, for an ECU's inputs. I scanned the internet, & only found one . . . https://forums.ni.com/t5/LabVIEW/Using-rotary-encoder-position-to-trigger-an-analog-pulse/td-p/2017540 If anyone reading this has come across any other similar efforts "on the web"; I'd me most grateful, if You could put a "link" in this discussion. Cheers Banjo