philbey

There's a difference between underlay (20 bucks per roll) and sound deadener like dynamat (300 bucks a roll.

I don't run flashlube on my 5K, pretty sure I asked my engine builder and he said it wasn't necessary.

Remember your comp ratio changes depending on the cam you run. Definitely read up on this: http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html I'm about 11.5:1 static, but with a big cam, it's still workable. I would always advise building your motor to a DCR not an SCR!

I went from a 3k with a blown head gasket to a fully built, twin carb, high comp, big cam 5K. Difference was AMAZING haha. The cam is awesome, it's not to bad on low revs and just screams in the higher rev range. But remember, I have the whole deal here; cam, carb, extractors; COMPRESSION! I'm actualy fairly limited on going to a smaller cam because of the compression ratio. It pings like mad on anything less than 98RON.

I used a simple analogy so that we could avoid an overly complicated debate. The message remains the same, the fan in front or behind will have minimal impact. You haven't even got the motor to boiling point and I still don't think you even have a have a problem with your car. If it actually is boiling/overheating, I still maintain that it's not the location of your fan that is causing the issue.

Yeh the little notched bush iirc where the bowl connects to the carb body can be repositioned for a couple of different agles

Honestly; this is the best option. I'm running about .480 lift with the Crow 4220's, no problems. Direct fit.

Get a straw, plug the end. It doesn't matter which way you blow through, its blocked. Tape some cardboard to your radiator, front or back, it wont matter. Anyway, simply put, fan on the front 'blocking the radiator' is a myth; at worst, it might slow the airspeed down slightly but it will not cause you to overheat.. Mate, 95-100 isn't hot. That's well within a safe range, if you're worried about that, then there's no issue here at all. With a coolant and a working radiator cap, your coolant boiling point will be around 120 degrees! Honestly, if your car isn't boiling at idle, and it's hitting 95-100 at speed, there is nothing to worry about.

Front or back won't make a difference first of all, regardless of Tue side its on, the flow is 'blocked'. Anyway the maths doesn't stack up, allow me to explain! A stationary fan will move approx 300 litres a second. A car, without fan, travelling at 100 kmh will push 6750 litres a second of air through a 600x400 radiator. Even if you blocked half the.radiator area, at that speed you still get 10 times more airflow. Most overheating problems I find with my K engine happen at idle. Water pump running slow, no passive air flow. I dread 43 degree days in traffic for this reason. I still think you're barking up the wrong tree. You mention Temp climbs indefinitely, does it actually boil? K motors will begin to ping very hastily once they get really hot? Do you get this, are you actually boiling? Steam everywhere etc? Is your thermostat working?

I disagree with the previous comments: underlay isn't so much about dampening noise, its there to add a pliable layer so the carpet doesn't thrash out. Without underlay you'll wear the carpet out in places much quicker as it works against the floorpan etc. I fitted molded carpet with underlay and it was not difficult

I've got a davies craig thermofan on my 5K and it moves an amazing amount of air, much more than the engine fan ever would. To save you a lot of rooting around, I suspect it isn't your fan that is the problem. What are the symptoms? is it boiling? or just sitting high on the gauge?

hah, the manifold went cos it was a good price :0 You can pull the fuel bowls off and if I recall correctly, there is a small bush that you can change which changes the oreintation of the fuel bowl. I think the incline on the SU's is more of a packagaging issue, then you just fit the fuel bowls to suit Some of the later SUs' had an integral fuel bowl

Wow that is funny as. Dude these manifolds do not come up often. Pay the man his 100 bucks and be done with it. Trust me,I looked for a long long time.

Ke30 and ke70 left hand mounts are the same mackay part no. Not sure the same Toyota # but they couldn't get 30 ones that's for sure. I do t run trumpets, just a 36mm filter assuming. Would like to get 16mm stub trumpets but they're 160 a set! With extra room I might fit some in though.

Ke30 and ke70 left hand mounts are the same mackay part no. Not sure the same Toyota # but they couldn't get 30 ones that's for sure. I do t run trumpets, just a 36mm filter assuming. Would like to get 16mm stub trumpets but they're 160 a set! With extra room I might fit some in though.

Waste of time trying. Weber/Dellorto manifolds are 4 to 4 ports. SU manifolds are 4-2 ports. Adapting 4 SU's will be a nghtmare. If you're that stuck either go for Weber/Dell setup (one for sale at the minute, 150 per carb+170 for manifold = 470 bucks which is a reasonable price) Or hand make your own SU manifold.

Yeh they are the same, but a quick glance at the ebay item pic and they are not the greatest quality. You can see the ripply steel from the pressing process. I did consider that option of cutting/drilling Cameron, was going to use the genuine toyota bush instead but at 100 bucks + and not even available, that went out the window. 45 bucks for a KE30 item, will give me +40mm on an already tight fit. Only issue is that the shifter will well and truly hit my knee now. bend....

So I gave it a bit more of a manly shot at fitting the KE30 mount in and it worked much better the second time. Although I've not bolted up completely it looked pretty good for a test fit. Ordered a KE30 item just this minute. my only concern is the extra tilt will likely accelerate the failure of the gearbox mount. Probably able to live with that as I've got a spare one anyway. An even better option, I have a old bush from a 2-piece LH engine mount, I could quite easily chop up the 1 piece KE10 unit and adapt it to fit the bush from the 2 piece item. Or, I may consider cutting a section out of the KE30 item and rewelding it to get the dimension I'm after.

There's a reasonable amount of work in that. From my point of view, the modification to the oil pump and the sump will be the trickiest.

Wow that is stupid... welcome to the RC by the way!

wow that is daft, although I don't know if they're actually worth much these days anyway... can't think of any particlularly stupid things anyone I know has done lately though. I'm a terminal fuel-runner-outer though. Maybe I'm the stupid one my family speaks of behind my back?

Yeh for sure, it's just that stock struts are close to the body so you can't pull them in much before they hit. If the coilovers are narrower you can get a little extra. I got a price for a group buy of the Otomoto kit that was pretty good, but it hasn't been a priority for me at the minute.

Welcome! Always dig a car with a good background story. Sounds a little nefarious almost. Post up a rides thread here and keep everyone updated on your progress! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/forum/54-rollaclub-rides/

Mate if you want to dispose of those butchered ones, let me know... And it's piqued not peaked LOL. :lolcry: (sorry couldn't help myself)

I had a turbo bluebird wagon that got bent thanks to some dopey haggis. It had a reasonable amount of work done to it, CA18 turbo, engineered in Victoria etc, but it just didn't look anything fancy. When it came around to getting assessed, I put together a list of detailed costs (engine, wheels, engineering costs etc) and I also managed to find a couple of examples for sale on the web. It's not as simple as cost ratio; if you can demonstrate that there's work gone into it and that it would be difficult to replace, you might get it paid for. Failing that, they will give you a write off value and will also give you the option to salvage the wreck. here is all the vicroads info for registering a previously written off car: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/WhatHasToBeRegistered/Written-off+Vehicles/