philbey

Off the top of my head, this is the best thing I can suggest for the moment. I'm not sure if it makes any practical sense though: Perhaps check where in the coolant circuit the heater connects to the engine water circuit. One possibility is that you could be drawing coolant from the cold side of the radiator, through the heater core. Conduction/convection could be heating up the static water in the core, then when it opens it may be flushing through colder water. The more I think about this though, the less I think it is likely, would take some strange plumbing to do this. The other option is, perhaps check your head gasket with a compression test. If you have a crook HG, you may be pressurising the water jacket with air/steam and as the heater connections are high in the block it may be forcing the water out of the heater core. A mate's heater core actually ruptured in his KE36 and filled his cab with steam.

oops, sorry, 225s, my mistake. Go grab one of those lock clips from a wrecker, no need to make a new one. Just pop it off with a screwdriver.

Ahh the haters come out of the woodwork!

wowo I can't believe I just found this thread. Will have to go through in greater detail (only on pge 2 later) but this is an exciting build! Just read up on this motor, good plan. It's in the scion's so I'm guessing the US aftermarket is strong, which means good, cheap bolt on parts! Looking forward to this one.

you lot might as well give up now, you can't top this:

So off the back about a nostalgic conversation about classic computer games, I decided to buy a Battletech E-book off amazon. Not too bad so far although there's less battling and more subterfuge. While we're on the topic of Red Dwarf (the show not the Mod) have any of you guys read the books? Great read, and they really tie in lots of episodes into a full story.

haha gold Walking through a concert I reached behind my girlfriend and slapped a Jim Beam promo girl on the butt, then took a hard left into the crowd. Got 6 feet away, looked back to see the JB girl glare at the GF and my GF apologised! haha. For the record I like reading about maths and physics. Bugger doing maths that's for engineers!

Hello there, I don't think you'll get hold of replacement rocker panels in new condition. unless you can find someone willing to cut a good set out of another car, you will have to fabricate them. Should be straight forward to make for a competent panel beater though.

I bought Wagon tailgate seal for my KE16 from these guys http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/TOYOTA%20COROLLA%201966-70%20KE10-11-15-16-17-18.htm It was good, installed with some contact adhesive and care, it worked great.

hah true. Wasn't so quick that day. Thought I'd killed her!

Also, just for the record, connecting the leads out of order will not stop the car from starting. It will stop it running well, but it will still fire up and run. (once plugged a 6 banger dizzy in reverse order, still ran.... badly)

I've had my 911 on 4 stands for months. As discussed, raise to full height in stages. Be very careful that your trolley jack can move freely across the floor as it lifts as well, you can very easily pull a car off the jackstands if the jack doesn't roll forward. BUT - honestly, I wouldn't even consider putting a car on jackstands if it wasn't at a minimum, compacted quarry rubble, and dead flat at that. Putting them on dirt/grass/lawn etc is crazy. Sure people do it all the time, they've never had a problem. Well at least the one's that survive to tell you about it.

check all your low tension leads, did you get them correctly connected to the coil? When your spade connectors are a bit old and worn, you can easily bump one of these and it's no go.

What's the engineer's rationale? Did he ask you to weld both sides of the lap joint?

not even stretched?? I run 245's on a 7 inch rim and you reckon 195 on 8's aren't stretched... interesting. You flared a guard in a day?

Thought I better point out that's a quote.... Rob might get the reference....?

195's on an 8 inch rim.... jesus you people are crazy with this 'stretch' phenomenon.......

Hahaha. You ever read the complete works of Sir Francis Bacon? "Eric Van Lustbader? What's he got to do with food?" "Van. Bread van, meat van, food!"

Only because the rest of us refused to do it haha. Oh peeps, Dave is a mod now as well for those who didn't notice

Deduction. You don't come across 16 year olds who are proficient at using NX6. In 2000 I was in the first CAD class there which paved the way for Unigraphics to donate the software and a bunch of old SGI and HP unix machines and set the school up with their software. And as I mentioned, the guy who owned this pano used to go to urrbrae.

that RX-4 is great looking, with the exception of nasty, nasty simmons wheels....

he didn't say that people who wear flat brim hats are being dumb.

I dig the progress you're making, keep the updates coming. If I were a betting man, I'd bet that you go to school at Urrbrae?

Derp galore many wrongs have occurred here. Studs don't take vertical load. Hubs don't take vertical load. Friction between surfaces takes the load, and the tensile force through the studs applies the friction. The hub locates the wheel axially. You can use a ring to fill the gap, tyre joints sell as mentioned. Tapered nuts and shouldered nuts will also locate axially, but you need to have countersinks on your wheels to match the taper, or large holes for shoulders. Many old small cars don't even have hub centric hubs on the rear It's all common misconception even I thought wrongly in the past. I've changed now, I'm always right haha.

I've now shifted this to the Automotive Discussion forum. I've spoken to Wez and just to clarify, he is importing a car from NZ and was wondering if any others would be interested in using 'combined shipping' to their advantage. This is not a commercial venture. Cheers all.