philbey

Second that, fuel pump first check. Also if it's sat for a long time with an empty tank, you could have blockages as the dry tank scales up and flakes clog it.

Before you worry about a fix, determine if you actually have a problem. First step for you, google "hydraulic lifter preload" and read up. There may be some info on this on rollaclub, but limited. I think I wrote about it once before. Regardless, there is ample info on the net. Once you understand it, you need to measure up to work out if you have a problem. Generally you should aim for 1.5mm preload. When you read up you wil learn how to measure it. Be advised this is a very finicky process, not difficult but you need to take care on a k motor to fleet accurate values. It is possible that you won't have enough preload, the solution to this is to shorten your rocker posts commensurate with the difference in preload. For example if you only have 1mm preload, you would shorten the post .5mm to get the 1.5mm desired. Any machine shop will easily be able to shorten the posts for you. This is the simplest solution, you might have a lot of trouble finding the exact Length pushrod to suit. Snot35 makes an interesting point about takeup of the lifter but it's not that straightforward. Lifter preload is the key. Read up you must young padawan. A12 lifters are for solid conversions. Forget them, you have a hydro cam not a solid one.

Yeh good point. None of this makes sense. Can you please elaborate mate, who told you this is so, and why?

It sounds to me like you have been given a solid cam grind, not a hydro one. Also, in future, can you please think about continuing on with your previous threads rather than a complete new thread for every question? You currently have 5 very similarly themed topics on page one of general mechanical.

Horseshit. Mine ran for ages with .480 lift. Admittedly it broke a spring, after about 10000 miles. That fact in the FAQ needs correcting, it is not the case for 5k hydros at least. Get crow 4220s about 120 a set, delivered.

Just a question did you make sure the wiring is correct and did you flip the fan blade accordingly? I put a dc in mine and as the instructions say, the fan comes out of the packet to be mounted in front BUT the blue and black wires into the relay are opposite for front mounting. it's retarded and I was over heating scratching my head for a bit

Frankly, I'm excited about it. While I likely wont be queuing to get the first one out the showroom, I'm gonna book myself a test drive. I read a test drive article the other day and it sounds like the claims of being a drivers car are accurate. I'm with shady, mx5s are fun and if this thing is anything like that, it will be a blast I'm surprised by all the haters. Sure Toyota haven't done anything interesting in years but this appears to be a step In The right direction

Chobis

No its not a bolt In and I personally wouldn't waste my time.

Buy them from a Bursons or similar, a trade outlet, not bloody repco. I use VDO because they are a quality gauge with a clean look. They are OEM on Porsche's as well.

Cool looking starlet. Welcome to the forums. I've never come across one of these in Aus and there isn't much discussion about them. I'll move this to the Rides thread and you can keep us updated on your car there.

That's a home made bracket for sure, albeit a nicely made one.

Ron Jeremy cameo funny as

15x9 hahaha I've got a 911 and that doesnt even need 9s!

Lots of Subaru stuff runs the r series diffs like the 1600.

Does it have a cap? If so, replace it.

Yep 4 link would have been my suggestion. That FD rear end is a full blown double wishbone, that would be an epic feat.

What makes you think they are difficult and expensive to get? I got a set of 5K pistons +40thou for 160 bucks? If you still have this trouble, there are a few people who've run 4AGE pistons and I think with a J or G motor conrod. But that could easily be more expensive. A rebore will be cheap. But you might as well get the block dipped, crack tested, bored, decked etc. Budget 500-1000 bucks depending on condition.

That is as per my understanding.

The design going offshore is nothing new, it's always been cyclical in aus,the engineering and design jobs ebb and flow with the model development cycles. The auto industry in Australia has dabbled with 'follow the sun' design for a decade, where they run multiple offices around the world working on the design 24 hours a day. I've worked with a couple of companies that offshore their CAD work to offices in India or Indonesia. It's nothing new people. There's an engineering shortage in this country.

Second that motion

Just started reading 'Life on the Mississippi' by Mark Twain. Only about 5 chapters in and it's so far fantastic. Check it out.

So we're tellin ya that it's not factory but you reckon the previous owner couldn't have done it. I reckon Jesus.

hahaha. No.

Very cool, I like your adjustment system. I'd like to know how it goes. Just some food for thought, with the slot setup, under high cornering load, you may find the friction grip of the bolts isn't enough and the bolts might wander within their slots, putting your alignment out. Take a look at my image below. You might get very high friction on the bolt washers, but keep in mind that the ratio of control arm length to distance between bolts is quite high and magnifies the force. It also means a minor shift at the bolts is much greater at the ball joint. In this case, a designer will always put a second 'hard' interface in to prevent this happening, like a machined edge to run against, or two shoulder bolts in each finely toleranced slot. I'd hate to think what a sudden geometry change could do after diving hard on the brakes.