philbey

It's not simply about weight, it's about where they remove it from. A kilo off the centre might not be as effective as .2 from the outside. Tell your machinist what the application is: street, race etc. tell him whether you are going to fit a scatter shield into the bell housing or not. Let him make the decision based on that info and he will machine based on the design of the flywheel.

Sus are easy to rebuild, you already have them also, big plus. Are they su or hitachi though? Hitachi I understand can be a little more difficult to get parts and tune. Heresay though. If you have the mani it's a done deal. I run twin 40 dells so I'm biased. I got them tuned by a dell guru, it was 2 years of problem free driving (with respect to the tune that is.... 2 starters, an alternator and a broken valve spring make for a different sentiment) Definitely go the su. Give them a rebuild, put them on, get needles and springs to suit. You will be able to get it running and driving, at least to take it to the dyno tuner. Get it tuned properly by a pro, the fiddle with your o2 from a professionally benchmarked level.

Man just because you got it back in the same spot doesn't mean you have the dizzy in the correct spot, you can very easily get a tooth out on the drive gear which will allow the car to run, but it can run like shit. Timing light will help you sort this out, but you can work out if you are in the ball park without one. Pull the rocker cover off and rotate the motor until you see the #4 rockers begin to move together. Both the inlet and exhaust will move simultaneously. This means that piston #1 is at top dead centre. Now look at your crank pully, your mark should be near the timing markers. Now, mark with a txtta on your dizzy, not the cap but the actual dizzy itself. Put the mark directly in line with the connection to number 1 plug lead. Now pull your cap off and see how your rotor aligns with the mark that you made. While looking at this, rotate your motor back and forth,you will get a feel for how that rotor should line up with the mark. Crudely, your mark should line up the rotor and your crank pulley should be somewhere between 0 and 10 degrees. You should be able to tell if your a tooth out one way or another.

Right, got ya.

I don't run vac advance either. Should have no problem setting this up without advance.

Mate. That is tufffffffff. Nice one. Where'd you find the LSD?

Hello andrey. Manuals are commonly found here in Australia, I picked mine up for very little. I see you're in the Ukraine and I suspect they are not as common over there. I might have a spare copy but I won't be home until February. If you haven't found one by then will have a look for it.

I'd go the dell onto, have it jetted and choked to suit your motor. Probably 32mm chokes, perhaps 34. Sus would also be good but mani will be harder to find. 2 inch extractors at big but so be it. Is o2 necessary? Your running carbs, you can log data, pull over, adjust, drive again log, pull over? Seriously the money you spend on a good setup on a non efii motor will pay your dyno tuners bulls for 3 years. I spent 300 bucks tu ing my 5k and it ran fine for 2 years.

Measure the valve diameter. I suspect you have stock valves with 3 angle grind. I port matched my 5k to my manifold at 32mm. No point running 'big' valves with stock cam. Save your monEy, go bigger lift, sidErafts and extractors. If you still have spare money, then by all means go for bigger valves.

Dude, this is the second time i have asked you to consider posting in your other older threads rather than create a new one every time you have a new question. I've merged your two threads and upped your warning level. Like I already said, Forget trying to get an 800rpm idle without a recurve. Now: Did you time it with a timing light? Have you had it dyno tuned. Seriously, you must have it tuned by a professional.

Yep remote with the highest average house price in Australia and highest income. I not but I'm in mining, city based though. Did 18 months at Roxby, I enjoy remote work, I'll look at going overseas remote next.

Hahaha. As for the food, hit and miss. Uk food is shit. I thought bacon eggs baked beans hash browns mushrooms snags and tomato for less than 10 bucks was like breakfast heaven. Two weeks in I realised it's all you can get.... Their restaurants are limited,sure if I sold a spleen I could eat at Ramsay or Hestons joints but nope. Berlin I couldn't find anything local as a standout. Munich I went mad on pork knuckle and suckling pig and spend the bulk of today writhing with agony of gut pain. But it was good pork. Japan was good for food. Mmmm. Tempura. Chicks, sure but nothing beats a good Aussie beach. Beers, damn British make the best beer. Sooooooo many to choose from. German beer is disappointingly limited in imagination... Weissbeer weissbeer weissbeer..... Pilsner. Weissbeer,

Why not just reroute the are line slightly. Make a template from a coat hanger, get the brake shop to bend and flare one from tube for ya, 20 bucks tops.

I think we earn quite well, yes. I listened to two blokes in suit and ties in the middle of Westminster talk about how one got a Patrice from 38k to 40k. That's 61k Australian, which is below our median income of 73k. Not half perhaps, but less. Here's an indicator. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Median_household_income

Where you at in Adelaide? MV automatics in Blackwood should be able to do it, he's a good dude and last time I thought his prices were reasonable There is also a good list of info on SA vendors on this page if Blackwood is too far away, you my find something else. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/30334-sas-recommended-list/

You know what I'm all for you getting in and doing it. Sure you could buy another engine cheaply and swap, or you could do a pull down and rebuild and learn a shitload. Before you do anything drastic though, compression test it. Oil flying out the cap is from the cams flicking out, not blobby. Its not a particularly useful method, comp test, then pull the head off if it's bad. Then you can better diagnose if it's the bores or the valve set seals. You might get lucky and the bores are fine, then just head rebuild and gasket kit, out of jail free! First up be aware that this likely won't be as cheap as a few hundred. Do you have a torque wrench? Thats150 for a reasonable one? Engine stand and crane, there's 300-400. Your block may be knackered, there's a couple of hundred for the dip, bore hone etc, and then you'll need pistons, 200. Before long you will spend half the value of the car. Not trying to talk you out of it, but you don't want toget halfway through and the project stops because you didn't have the budget right. If your keen to learn and have the money and time, do it.

I'm in Germany at the moment, jus been through the uk and Japan, off to Austria, Italy and then the US.... Amen to that shady although I'm not back. And my mates aren't stupid, but what astounds me is that EVERYTHING is expensive in Australia.... Food, beer, cars, rent, houses. I'm buying pints at Half the price even with the exchange rate!

Dude they are probably just the 50 thou lift values not the spec sheet values. Why don't you simply call him and ask for an explanation. Also you may have asked for a solid grind on a hydraulic cam, they won't be exactly the same especially when it comes to the difference between 0 and 50 thou lift. Call him and report back.

Dude, you MUST get it timed and tuned or all your money is wasted. I don't think you have an actual problem, big cams don't like to idle that low. Altezzaclub, I simply backed off the the rocker post bolts til the rockers were loose and then very slowly did them up until the freefloat was taken up (not the spring float in the lifter but the slop so it's just touching) Use a razor blade on the top plane of the head to mark a line across the pushrod then tighten up rocker post bolts completely and remark the pushrod, measure the distance between.

A 3tc wont freak the shit out of anyone. And it will be harder than you think.

Worked 5k averages 9l/100 but will easily run at 11.5/100 if i drive it like I stole it too much

Nope Lifter preload. Did you check it or not? For those readin, there is no slop in the valve train, when dry, the lifters should be compressed 40-60 thou. More preload than this and you might end up cracking the valves open, any less and you'll get rattle. Nobody has said the obvious yet: dude, you have a cammed car, do you really expect it to idle at 800 revs? Forget it. I have a stock flywheel, a big cam and 12:1 comp, my dyno tuner could not get it to idle any less than1200. Not only that but you haven't timed the car yet, set your timing at about 10 degrees and then report back. The best way to get a lower rev idle is to recurve your dizzy: you need more advance at idle to compensate for the camp lope. But a stock dizzy won't let you rumore than about 10, any more and you'll ping at higher revs.

Dude find me a kp30 publica haha!

Dude, bolt it all up, measure your lifter preload, adjust rocker posts by either machining or shimming. Forget all this malarkey and just go straight to the root of the problem. And don't worry about the pushrods leaning over, they lean over every time they rise and fall!. You're worrying about something insignificant. Trying to guess how much your head needs to be shaved to keep pushrods vertical is a waste of time. Measure it up, lfix if required.

Abel00 keep the personal abuse in check. As fOr the rest of you, please also keep it civil. The question has been answered, please take the time to read the link altezzaclub has posted. Don't waste time witha 4 k just get a 5k. You can do what you want for 2-3 grand if you look hard for good deals.