philbey

3 year old post guys. You might get lucky though

Jono I'd be running some bigger diameter flat washers on those adjustment screws mate. just a thought.

Holy smokes. That is huge flare. I dig it. Are you using a tig on the guards? You'll be better off if you do, MIG welds are generally much harder and will take a lot more finishing. Also, just continuously tack weld rather than run full welds, it will reduce heat distortion. Looking forward to seeing the end result, although you will need to run huge offset to fill the guards, or it will look dicky. And if you do a good job with that overflow bottle, wanna talk about making one for me? Another project I have on my list that I never get around to...

Hmm. Handy trick.

Definitely balance it, it will add 150 or so to the build but it's well worth it. Will rev soo much smoother. I seriously doubt you will keep below 4500, mine loves it right through to 7000. A balance even if you do keep revs low, will seriously improve engine Longevity as well.

Tirerack.com I bought mine from there with great success. Factor 200-250 in for shipping and 40 to fit and you are laughing. Sounds expensive? But when you can get a 16 inch set of advan Neovas for 600 you are laughing. Ecstas are even cheaper at 400. Wgmg... The tyres are still sitting in the corner waiting for my lazy ass self to polish the wheels.

TW are good dudes, Wayne is a gun.

No not personally. A mate of mine Ended up stranded heading out there from Roxby a few years back, he broke a front end somehow. They were pretty lucky they got located after a day or two, could have ended up badly. That was in an 80 series. I'm suggesting a 4wd would be wise.

No local car manufacturing industry. It's called protectionism. Altezzaclub?

Just need to get your head around what the S means.

digest this and you shall be almost there.

Yes I run the 4220s in my 5k and I run a lot more lift @ .480 I dispute whether you even need to change them, I ran stock springs at that lift for 18 months as a daily driver before I broke one, and I suspect it was more due to age. The rule of thumb in the FAQ appears to pure speculation. There is also a common misconception that dual springs sap more power than singles, this is not necessarily the case: while they have a higher seat pressure, you'll probably find they run a lower nose pressure due to the lower spring rate than a fat single. Do the math on the 4220s and you'll understand. Long and short, 4220s dropped straight into my 5k and should do for the 4k, perhaps some shimming to bring up to desired seat pressure and you are off. Forget milling out pockets and all that snot.

Would b doable. Might need to cut and shut the front mount bracket, and perhaps tweak the control arm rods depending on length. I'm not sur how you feel about cutting up 1200 bucks of gear though.

People always offering crappy commodores for 'tradez bruz?' Seriously, I'd rather trade my car for AIDS.

exactly my thoughts.

Mate, get a high res scan for us!

Yep. Although drilling out the crush tubes doesn't sit well with me, I haven't looked to see how much meat gets drilled out.

Now this may not be the 'proper' way to do it. But it worked for me. Belt the old one out with a hammer. A copper mallet etc. To get the new one in without a press, I removed the control arm and very carefully used a vice to press the ball joint in. It may tend to skew sideways as it goes in, but you can then 'flip' it over in the vice and counter the sideways movement. No problems.

I had an accelerator pump go and it wasn't just a second of trouble, it was damn near impossible to drive. Come on too hard and it would just stall, you had to ease throttle on very very slowly.

Mate post a pic of your engine bay. What carb are you running? Have you boxed the carb, or run a boost reference line to the fuel bowls?

Mate you're welcome here, definitely put up a rides thread. I'd love to see the progress on this.

Let me see: -Red (+) -4K (-) -Wagon (always a plus in my book) -KE70. Let me just ask; how much would you be happy to pay for syphilis?

Same thing happened to me recently; I had a clear gap, I indicated and went to move into it. I was technically giving way, the car was behind me and we were matched for speed. They sped up and I continued across. Even with the speed up, I was still clear, albeit somewhat closer. I got a letter from the cops, they actually reported me. No fine, it's a simple 'don't do it'. I will be responding. If the lane is 'zippered' like the diagram, your lane ends and you have to give way. If it's just a lane line that ceases, the car in front has right of way. I think (need to confirm) but the law for giving way is that if another car has to vary speed (or lane change) by a certain amount to avoid collision, it's a failure to give way. Pulling in front of someone isn't necessarily a failure to give way.

Unfortunately there's no 'list of things'. You'll need to fab a bunch of stuff etc. You may be able to buy a ready to roll kit. Do you want lots of grunt and reliable, or are you just aiming to get some more power but you're not worried about reliability?

1. Yes your gearbox will fit to the motor 2. I am not 100% but I thing a manual to manual conversion will be fine, it's only the Auto to Manual conversion that you need to change it? 3. Tailshafts are all the same length, there are different output shaft splines, you may need to get a matching front yoke and have it changed 4. A Ke70 5 speed will have the gear shifter in the wrong spot, you are better off getting a KE55 5 speed, otherwise you will have to cut the trans tunnel.