philbey

Never fear, it's only a matter of time when cash won't be king. The time will come when the merchant fees will get less and less and cash will die with the older generations. Faster tech like the pay pass will work on a debit or prepaid card system and the transaction will be even quicker than cash. Kaching or similar will improve to a point where giving your mate money will be figurative only. Oh I struggled. Got caught a couple of times when we just couldn't find an at, that would dish out cash and not enough cash to get to our hotel haha.

Don't waste your time with Silicon/RTV either. Get Permatex No. 5 it is much much much MUCH better.

Even if you milled a flat patch on the timing cover, you wont have enough meat for tapping threads in. I suspect they have milled the shape out through the timing cover, machined a matching boss to insert and then welded it into the timing cover from the back. Either way, it's a nice looking setup. That's only half your problem, you still need to produce a vernier cam gear to suit the K engine. What are you doing with this motor? Sounds exciting.

Nah we'll leave it. I don't mind raising issues that have already been covered, although in some cases people get a little more nasty than I'd like with the "use the search button" responses.

Dude I ran my toyoglide at 95kmhr with a 3k, every day. Once it was up to pace it was ok.

Yeh as others point out, a head gasket doesn't have to manifest itself with milky oil etc. It could be one and might well last a long time as is, until it goes real good some day and strands you. It's not a hard job to do on a k engine, even for a beginner.

Totally agree with Irokin. It's much easier to moderate single topic threads. For example, when I see a topic titled "hot to fit falcon springs into Ksev For drifting" I just ignore it and let the mouth breathers quibble. It's like a crèche of sorts that I never have to enter.

He's an engineer. Self loathing?

Used it as a bench for my electrical gear as I wired up the shed lights :(

yeh this is pretty pointless. Locked.

Hi mate, I'm not sure I've ever seen the 4K manual in electronic form. There are a few torque sheets etc around the place, but that's about it. You can pick them up very easily at swapmeets, ebay etc for around 5-10 bucks though.

you could get in touch with an anodiser/metal finisher, they would be able to strip the old anodising and redo it. They will also be able to do some dent work, but you will pay good money for that I suspect. Are you in Melbourne?

yeh my mate's a mechanic and they get that shit done all the time. I suspect if you have a few to do, you get good bang for buck as well.

I'm a mech, we have a lot of crossover with the civils. I lived and studied with two Civils through uni. The person I alongside the most with at work is a Civil and he's also a good mate of mine, so I've seen both sides, study and work. I will say, categorically, study in no way represents your day to day life as an engineer. Hands down. It's a tough one; you need to study and learn the stuff you're learning now, but ironically, 80% of it you may never use again. Engineering is a massive, very diverse industry and uni completely fails to teach students that simple fact.

WGMG - 'journalists' or should I say, bloggers, who feel the need to drop japanese words and phrases into their articles all the damn time. Frankly, I don't care that you can rattle off a few words, I just want to read the article without having to google the meaning every third paragraph.

what sort of repair? Are they bent and need reshaping, or are they scratched up?

I think the Klippan model I used in the KE16 was K2255. From the top of my head anyway.

Jono, if the KE10 suspension galls you that much, I fear for your automotive future..... ( ; Gotta be the easiest front end I've ever worked on. Hurt yourself. Hurt yourself real good in the dark. That'll change their tune.

Needs a price thanks mate.

Hah. You don't want to cos you know we'll hand you a temporary ban for a week haha. I don't reckon you cope to well with that will. Datsuns went crazy, when people couldn't afford 1600s anymore, they moved to 180bs. There's been a mild price correction in 1600s from the prices of 5 years back.

You want a thermo to kick in when your thermostat opens. The thermo switches close at a temp lower than that which they open. Your fan doesn't control temp, the thermostat does. You definitely don't want the fan to be higher than the thermostat because it will get a temp spike

Try the japanesenostalgiccar forums they have massive threads dedicated to jap wheels

How'd you come to that conclusion Evan? Not that I disagree but unfortunately I've lost my calc spreadsheet I made, I calculated stock spring rate by measuring them up. If I recall I had similar seat pressure to stockies but lower nose pressure than with the doubles.

Yeh fair call mate. If you go back through the pages, there are a lot of claims that they give you high spring rate, then the flat earth society jump on the whole 'losing engine power' bandwagon. good times.

At least. Dish best served cold, followed by a dessert of: do you really need them? Broken record? This is a common misconception; Doubles can be designed with a lower spring rate to allow for greater lift without spring bind and high nose pressure! In the case of my crow 4220 doubles, they are a lower spring rate than the stock 5K springs. They are a direct bolt in, they require no change in retainers and you may wish to shim them up if you aren't running enough seat pressure. I would suggest that you would only run the 4220 with BIG lift. I run about .480 lift, .1 over stock. Keep in mind that I ran that lift with stock springs for a good couple of years before one broke.