philbey

Mate hammer the insurance company to whom you pay good money to manage this. I've previously gone via them to get proper repairs done, my old hills dual cab went back 3 times, the third time to a different 'approved repairer' because of shit work.

Scott's old auto rubber do a tailgate seal that I used and it worked wel, just contact adhesives on and it's a good seal. As for the side rear windows, I haven't looked but I think you will have trouble getting them. The ones for the opening window you might be able to ri g something up, but the fixed side window will be more tricky to find I think

Wow that's really, really bad.

From my huntin there are at least 3 variations of the k engine water pump. Centre boss diameter, PCD and longditudinal pulley offset are all different, as well as the heater hose connections.

Probably just running different diff ratios.

My reasoning: "I'm so upset there're no pies left at the bakery, it's like someone has cut my guts out" "I'm so upset there're no pies left at the bakery, it's like someone has captured my precipitation in an open top launder and divereted it to a catchment system" 3 years since I switched all my incandescents with squiggly type fluoro's and no replacements since.... Probably some dodgy wiring.

Jordy, you might get away with it on a single. Mine are twins and you can't rotate the manifold anywhere to get off the back stud, the rear carb always hits the strut tower. With a single you might be ok. iwontarolla, do you know what grade stainless you used? my guess is 304/316?

You probably want shouldered wheel nuts. Head to a Tyre and wheel joint, they'll have what you need. without knowing your dimensions, it's a moot question.

I'd use studs if possible, it does make it a nightmare for me getting my Dellortos off in a very tight KE1x engine bay, so I've got bolts. It's not actually very hard getting bolts lined up into boltholes. Even with Dellorto's. iwontarolla, nice work with the studs; just a tip though, keep an eye on them. I personally wouldn't use stainless, its got a fairly high coefficient of expansion, higher than steel. You want to get them torqued up reasonably tight, otherwise you might find that they 'loosen off' with engine temperature. If you have trouble blowing manifold gaskets, swap them to mild steel.

Should be a memorable birthday then.

Mate what's s The story with the legality of 100/80s etc I wasnt aware of that and was gonna upgrade my ther car.

Mate it's a tight engine bay. Talk to Jordain, he's putting a beams into a ke11

So. Is it a fresh one. Or is it one that's done 85,000?

This was one from adelaide wasn't it. I dunno about a professional paint job. But it's not rattlecan.

correct. It would have been stamped into the vinyl. You could possible hand carve it like leather, but it will likely look rubbish.

Well I wouldn't use it personally. If you are really stuck, I would suggest you add some strengthening gussets. And weld a plate across the opening of the top hoop to prevent it from collapsing... I still wouldn't recommend it.

Wow that's handy to know, converting the rears is always the hard bit on KE10's. I've added it into the wiki, if anyone can confirm with any additional details that would be good. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=KE1x_Rear_Diff_-_convert_to_4x114.3

Nah. Marriage, 10 week honeymoon and a shed construction put it on hold. Just waiting for the sparky to finish wiring the shed lights though and it's on again. I have done a few bits here and there to it though.

http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html This is the best dynamic comp ratio calculator I found. It's very handy. I ended up with nearly 12:1 by accident on my 5k and I got away with it running a big ass cam, premium only. If I run stock fuel, as I had to once, it's not good at all.

I don't get that clown in the videos plan? That's not even his blind spot, it's a truck damnit. So is it jut that he was cutting his corner cos he was carrying too much corner speed?

Dude were you wearing glasses under the shield? I wear good fitting glasses and I got a spark in there even with foam backs, nasty... Gonna get me a shied, I wouldn't grind without glasses underneath.

Bootlid. My life isnt that exciting these days.

Mate just a pointer, I'd be putting washers underneath those strut top nuts. Looking good though, can't wait to see the final result of your guard flaring.

not a good idea. Just get a thread extractor, or a set of needle punches and about 4 hours of your time and get it out. The pressure plate bolts are in tension and they're responsible for taking the force applied by the pressure plate to the clutch plate. with one down, you might sacrifice some clamping force (read: clutch slip).

gotta love wearing hoodies; the number of times I've pulled the string out of the hood and used it to tie something down. Brilliant.