philbey

off topic, but I would stab people to get my hands on one of those KP31 Publica SR's.

Yo hook some brothers up with pics of this swaybar and the mounts!

Wow. Looking the goods.

Yeh these guys make good points; no need to apply a bunch of science to a dodgy bit of work anyway.... I suppose the better it's done, with pre and post heating, the less likely it will explode. But jam enough junk in there it won't matter anyway, it'll be your axles that snap. For interest sake, the joint was Speed Works on Molan St Ringwood.

*FACEPALM* My mates are making some gear in china and the quality is impeccable...... Seriously A1 and for a fraction of the price. Remember 50 years ago, the running joke was 'don't buy that junk it's made in Japan'......

actually, that wouldn't likely be the case. Welding material with such high carbon content isn't that common. Find an engine builder who does vintage engine work, they will have a preheat/postheat setup and the right rods because they will weld a lot of cast iron heads and blocks. where in melbourne are you, theres a guy in ringwood that i know has done a few Flathead fords and might be able to sort you out/ Ask around for someone who's done Cast Iron and you'll be fine.

The law says you can increase total track by up to 26mm. That means you can run 13mm less offset than factory wheels. ie factory offset - 13 = allowable offset. If factory offset is +5, 5-13= -8mm So your max would be neg 8.

I hardly see how it's difficult for anyone, cop or not cop, to measure track; total width across tyres (outside) minus one tyre width. One measurement, one calculation. But they don't need to; send it to regency, let them worry about it and you're screwed. 0 offset rims mean that the length of the axle = track width.

Mate is that a regency defect? Because if so, you're gonna have some work in front of you?!

Mate I'll be honest; you're going to pay a good amount of money to get it engineered.

Mate what'd you get defected for, tyres only?

The only way to get a k sump to seal well is a liberal does of permatex no. 5 or whatever it's called. Looks like treacle, shuts all over silicone. Also, my mate left me with a tube of Form In Place Gasket, like silicone on steroids that's shit is insane. The permatex? No 5 is much easier to apply and fit the sump in situ.

Even on the ke10 I jacked the motor slightly, it takes a bit of finessing but it's possible. Both times I've done it I didn't think I could do it but I haven't a shot. Surely someone has tried this on a ke 70

Oil pump is easy, as long as you can drop the sump with the engine in the car. Which can be done on a ke10, dunno about ta ke70 though.

88mph on a scooter would be nasty. Wgmg, engine oil flush... Wow what a brainfart it was using that. Clagged the oil pump pickup in 3 days.... Just dropped the sump and swapped a new pickup in. Never again.

Shit tyres can sometimes tend To make it track a bit.

I think he means the plenum will cover the top of the rocker cover? Should all be possible, but remember that you will need to run a hydro camshaft.

Rather than bother flipping discs etc I was going to chop the end off my swaybar arms , weld blade sytyle ends to the swaybar and run adjustable drop links with multiple holes for adjustable stiffness.

Welcome to the forum.

Another pertinent point; you can worry all you like about how it sounds at idle. But the loudest most unnerving thing you'll hear is those sidedrafts the first time you open them right up. Forget exhaust noise; induction noise will have the coppers looking your way.

it's done the rounds, Slo030 had it for a while then I think Raven bought it as well. Probably find the old sales threads if you look.

Yeh. Tell them you want them tunded. There's only one way to tune them, aiming for the best AF ratio across all the rev range. There's a difference between a big cam 'loping' at idle, and a crap tune. A big cam will still lope. Advance timing at idle and run a heavier flywheel.

I would suggest the following: - More timing advance, 10+ degrees but be warned your total advance will need to be constrained for this to work. There are plenty of ways to do this, such as regraphing, or running an ignition module with curve control - increase idle speed. Sounds smooth just fast. My big cam idles at 1200-1500rpm - Use a stock flywheel, not a lightened one. One reason flywheels weigh what they do is to dampen the motor's vibrations somewhat. Go back to a stock one if the current one is lightened.

Ca20...l ouch. Why bother went a ca18 is a bolt in.

Z18s in my experience are remarkably unexvciting. Given their age as well, you'll be paying a bunch of money for spares and tracking down the hard to find bits. E15, wow, you make me sick haha. There's always the Astron, plenty of turbo 2.6's running around. And the Starion motor but I bet bits for those are rare as.