philbey

Very cool, I like your adjustment system. I'd like to know how it goes. Just some food for thought, with the slot setup, under high cornering load, you may find the friction grip of the bolts isn't enough and the bolts might wander within their slots, putting your alignment out. Take a look at my image below. You might get very high friction on the bolt washers, but keep in mind that the ratio of control arm length to distance between bolts is quite high and magnifies the force. It also means a minor shift at the bolts is much greater at the ball joint. In this case, a designer will always put a second 'hard' interface in to prevent this happening, like a machined edge to run against, or two shoulder bolts in each finely toleranced slot. I'd hate to think what a sudden geometry change could do after diving hard on the brakes.

Hey mate, I reckon there's probably an existing thread with the same discussion, it's floating around somewhere, I'll see if I can find it. in the meantime, big cams are wicked, when setup right with carbs and extractors and tuned the kick in the guts from a cam is amazing, and when you're pulling 7000rpm the sound furious.

I'd hardly call 400 bucks, landed, expensive :lolcry: . This is how I looked at it: 200 for the Jaycar kit. 10 hours to build it at 20 bucks an hour (It'd be more like 100 hours for me in reality) that's 400 bucks. Plus you get the extra spark grunt of the MSD. I actually want two MSD's, one for the rolla and one for the 911, the yankee 911 owners get good results from them. Having said that, I am very interested to see what you build Banjo, sounds like an interesting setup.

I had looked into this as well in the past; first up, there's very few people that have actually done it. I was surprised, there's a long discussion on Toymods about doing it, but I don't think they ever got down to "I did it, here are my results" But I had a good hard think about buying one and combining it with an MSD 6AL to get the extra spark power etc. BUT THEN: MSD revised their famous 6AL and produced a programmable version: basically combining Jaycar and the old 6AL. You can also run a MAP sensor for boost retard. Long and short: but the MSD 6530 programmable unit and get it all in the one unit. About 400 bucks landed from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6530/ I'm in the states in January, I'll be looking to buy a couple, maybe I'll buy a spare or two and bring back.

twinky you're doing it up much too tight. Recommended torque on these gaskets is 5nm, which is barely more than finger tight. You also need to nip the nuts up very slowly, alternating across and around the sump. Also, don't use silicon, I had no luck whatsoever. Permatex No 5 non hardening gasket is what you want, it looks like thick golden syrup, black and very sticky. A good coating of this and then carefully do up the nuts and it's done.

I don't quite understand how you can use a lowering block in the KE10 front end. The leaf is mounted inside the X-member.

Yeh they didn't show it on the news this morning and after my colleague described the crash to me, I'm in no rush to watch it. Sad day for racing.

I'm certain mine is a double leaf as well, might just be a model year change. Mine is a 69.

Honestly can't say. I plotted dimensions directly off the lobe but never factored the follower offset so my numbers werent good. I need to drop a solid in and use that gets rid of dial gauge folloer error. It must be big because its around 12:1 static comp and runs! I got lucky,slapped it all together, checked the preload and it was good, perhaps a little on the high side. It's actually a really painstaking to measure, need to be very careful. I should probably shim down a bit. Honestly this argument rages all across the Internet:' run this with that but not the other way around' and everyone has a cogent argument full of quasi-scientific explanations. The simple fact is that they have different dynamics and you need to spec accordingly. The argument is also confused by Roller cams which do have a more aggressive profile. Also, the lobe root diameter on 5ks is different between thhe two. Hydro for hydro cams, solid for solid cams. I also suspect the merits of the argument that the hydro grinds are power limited compared to solids, at least for a street application.

I'm running a large hydro on my 5K, I did dial gauge it, and poorly and forget now. Anyway it's .480 lift. So it's big.

Why is this in electrical LOLZ? I'll move it, never fear. People talk a lot about 'Frank specials', there's a chap here in SA who modifies celica/corona 14 inch steelies to suit 4x110 and then people run Crown hubcaps on them. Look at the various slammed white/flat black KE10's and that's the look. You could also get moon discs or aftermarket hubcaps that will fit a stock 13 inch. I was considering buying a set of fiesta tri bars for my wagon.

Best of luck. Even a mod shop could stuff you around on the deadline AND still extract your kidneys and spleen for sale on the black market.

Saab 9000 rims are a 4x108 pcd not 4x110.

As if you'd even consider painting it a different colour!

If anyone wants a bit of non fiction, check out Stasiland by Anna Funder. It's all about the crazy shit the east German secret police got up to before the Berlin wall came Down. Oh and seriously, my favorite piece of non- fiction, possibly my favourite book: Chickenhawk by Robert Mason, an absolutely amazing story about a Vietnam War chopper pilot and his experiences, absolutely mind boggling.

I thought superpro used to make them, but don't any more. I swear I have a set of them at home, and no I'm not selling them.

Do you drive it hard? I destroyed a set of pads on my Hachioji in 5000 kms. It's a roady, best you just change them and be done with it,

For 800 you could have a set of webers/Dells, rebuilt, jetted and dynotuned. If you were building a concourse 3K-B SL Sprinter, then maybe, but only if they were nickelplated and all the gear was there!

I paid about 520 for the set fitted I think.

The guys who are selling you the grind will definitely be able to tell you specs. Lift, and duration are a must have, so just give them a call and they’ll certainly tell you. Report back afterwards! If they can't tell you, don’t go there. These numbers are important. You also need to confirm if you have hydro or solid cam, and that the grind you have is suitable. As for the weber upgrade: do it now. Your cam upgrade will be a waste of time on it’s own. Carb without Cam or vice versa is a pointless upgrade. There is no real ideal setup. I run Dellorto, others run weber, for twin sidedraft’s the 40mm will be ample for a road car. 45’s if you’re racing. You could also run SU’s but they’re harder to find manifolds for. A single sidedraft 45 would also make power although if you’re going one, why not go two. Those are pretty cheap so expect no real advantages other than… .cheap. Also what sizes are you running, I suspect it’s a 13x5.5 rim? I bought these Falkens for my car http://www.falken.com.au/tyres/passenger-ZE912.html I’m very happy for them, good performance in 13 inch tyres is limited, and these are a good size for close to stock dimensions. BTW, Hi and welcome! As a side note, please be aware that there is a minimum 72 hours before you are permitted to bump. Otherwise we will unleash a fury of biblical proportions! Just kidding, and generally not heavily enforced outside of the sales threads anyway! Seconded. You need to consider the whole engine; namely you should calculate your compression ratio and work out what cam will work well, and fit bigger carbs and extractors. Otherwise it could be a waste of time, as you go for a bigger cam , you should increase your compression accordingly. Light reading: http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html This claim of a 0.4 upper limit is a myth, for 5K hydraulics at least (which I suspect you probably have). I ran .48 lift (stock is .38) for over 18 months before I busted a valve spring. Regardless, get a set of Crow 4220 double springs anyway, 120 bucks. Forget adapting holden junk and all this Frankenstein mumbo jumbo etc, these are a drop in item.

The MSD coils put out a higher voltage, 45,000 will get you a fatter spark. Can possibly open up plug gap. First up, you won't notice any real performance difference in a daily/stocker/mild street car. Secondly, you'll pay 80-90 bucks for an MSD Blaster 2, or 40-50 bucks for a Bosch GT40. The Gt40 runs about 40,000 volts. Keep it cheap and just go with that.

Haha, funniest shit ever.

Hahaha abbot you sucker. We know all the moves.

Keep in mind that there's a range of different water pumps and thermostat housings for these motors and it's usually the heater outlet that varies; altezzaclub's KE70 could be quite different from the KE30/55 item.

5K is cable and has the hole for it. The flange on the left where the cable comes through that should fit up against the hole through the block. I found on mine that the sandwich plate didn't have a corresponding hole (think I used the 3K one) and I had to drill it out in-situ. Also that big round sucker on the end of the cable doesn't look right, it should be a simple yoke that hooks over the clutch lever.