philbey

Not the 1st time I've seen a ke10 running no coil spring, it gets them low then the leaf takes the bulk of the load. It probably handles like crap? Seeing as your struts are trashed, you should buy an Otomoto weld on coilover kit and run them on their own and ditch the leaf. This is likely the route I will take with my wagon down the track, will allow the best amount of tuning for a pretty cheap price (300 for the kit) Also, if the coilover kit is narrow enough it should allow for extra space inboard so you can increase the camber using camber tops.

Don't stress too much, you can simply change the plug to a 10a item. Or file it down. Unless your welding at full current there should be no issues. At full current most likely you'll just trip the breaker. Rollaclub does not condone said practices by the way Lol.

You don't want the old holden stromberg carby, they're a downdraft type. The stromberg you seek young padawan is a sidedraft, it looks like a flattened SU. Quite broad and flat. They're common on the Range Rover V8, go to a wrecker and look for old 80's range rovers or rover sedans, they either run twin SU's (early) or twin strombergs. Because they're a piece of shit car, ever wrecker has one or two of them haha.

hmmm Interesting. There are a few differences, namely the KE10 is quite a bit tighter in the engine bay, in particular drag link/idler arm/x member/tunnel and firewall clearances are all smaller. I didn't try fit them exhaustively as I had a set of KE10 mounts anyway, but I tried and it certainly seemed to be a no go. I'll pull her motor out one day and I'll have another crack then. Long and short is, you're the first person I've encountered who's actually done it, it's been nothing but speculation up until now!

hold on a second, have you actually tried this or are you repeating what others on the RC have said (it's been mentioned a few times). I tried to do this when I dropped the 5K in and it doesn't work. Can't remember why, but it was enough of a problem that I went back to KE1x units.

No I've not tried it BUT - I've seen a couple of the stromberg carbies used as a blow through, they're similar to SU's but I suspect may be a diaphragm operation. That's about all I can offer as advice. I had one years ago, I think I flogged it off to Ryan (SLO-030)

Stu, let me guess, the LHS mount was cactus as? I have the same problem, I reckon the extra grunt of my 5K is killing them prematurely. Fortunately, you can get LHS items but you can't get RHS ones. You can also get gearbox ones. I got Raven to chase it up through his work with no luck. So if there's a solution out there, I'm also all ears.

I'm not but I'll be swinging by to take a look see.

I went looking for SU manifold about 4 years ago and had a very hard time. I missed out on a manifold only for 80 bucks which was an absolute steal. At the time I thought i could do better so didn't snap it up! Foolish. BUT having said that there's been a few sell, with carbies, for reasonable prices in the last few months, after a good 2-3 year drought. As suggested, go back through old posts as there are probably a couple that might still be available. Incidentally, the same couple of sets keep coming up. Another option might be to get a stock 3K twin downdraft manifold and run a couple of 32/32 webers? Personally, sidedraft weber or dellorto's are the only way to roll.

Basically, to summarise what altezzaclub and slo030 are saying, there is NO way to answer your question accurately with just the information you've provided. The indicator marks are simply indicators, and don't determine anything other than 'has this head been machined. First up, you need to know what your compression ratio is; this will tell you how likely it is to ping etc. You will need the following: 1. Volume of the head in CC 2. Volume of the piston (dished or domed has either a positive or negative volume) 3. Bore Diameter 4. Stroke 5. Head gasket info (thickness etc) Punch these numbers into this: http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html This will tell you the static compression, then let us know your results. Sounds like a lot but it's very straightforward.

Evan Your alternator is a 55 amper, at 12 volts (lets forget efficiency AC/DC for the moment) that works out at 0.66kw of power draw. Your motor will definitely produce more than that at idle. Varying the speed the alternator runs at wont vary the load; your alternator will only draw max power if you're using max power. ie, subs kicking, spotlights on etc. From a quick google, most people seem to be able to generate 90% power at idle anyway. The factory pulley size is probably designed to put the max power draw at an ideal rev range in order to be it's most efficient. But what you ARE doing is changing the torque required to drive the alternator, by reducing the diameter, you've increased the amount of torque required at a given load. Definitely change back to a stock pulley. I paid 20 bucks for a 5K flywheel definitely don't pay more than that. Having flywheel bolts fail on me previously, I would also suggest you get a brand new set of flywheel bolts, not some hacked ones the wrecker sold you.

Remember though that they spend millions to engineer the parameters for the car and it's target market. Corolla stock setup were likely to meet the safe yet comofortable requirement and not the handling requirement. The science is straightforward, like altezzaclub said, there's a lot of info out there and simple performance mods can be done easily and effectively, if you read up first!

Haha without an ultrasound you'll have no idea about the fatigue. If you have a press, I'd be getting a new ke10 pump, press the pulley boss off a ke70 item and press that onto thus 10 item. Then your ports will be the same but you can run the later plastic fans. Or do what I did and run a thermofan

Lower mount bracket is the same. The top bracket, the sliding one, is different and has a slight offset compared to the early one. You can't easily adapt the early one to suit. A The biggest change is in the electrics, early alternators have an external regulator, later models are internal. It's a very simple upgrade though, you will end up with less wiring to worry about and a cleaner engine bay. Now just a punt, I don't think you will actually get extra grunt from the later one; I reckon they are both 25 A...?

Hah red beats me too it again, I'm dead tired of hearing that "barn find" yarn, although the collection is impressive nonetheless.

Let me guess, herald sun, right? The Hun is exactly what reddwarf said, printed version od ACA and today tonight sensationalist crap. It's the only paper I dislike more than the Advertiser. Just look harder and every week there's some totally one sided "I dinnt do nuffin rong, I is bein unfairly picked on" in the paper. No kidding, I've seen articles in the Hun that are nigh on unreadable.

Interesting. Better save the pitches somewhere myself.

Oh I forgot these are different. Yeh I used a 9-inch grinder spanner and that worked. If you can't get it easily, hit it with heat. Seriously, heat is the best thing ever.

Gday mate, keen to see your pics. Good thing you asked this, KE10 water pumps can be a pain in the arse. The first difference you spotted is the shaft: the pulley boss has a different offset to the later model pumps. Later pulleys have a similar offset which is fine, you just need to find the right one. The second difference is the PCD of the bolts, as well as the centre locating boss. there are 3 different PCD's, two of the PCD's are easy to find, one variant from the KE30/55 and the other from KE70 pumps. The 3rd PCD i found was on my KE10 pulley. Basically, none of the later plastic fans will fit the KE10 pump. Also the centre spigot was larger. I had to file out the boltholes and the centre spigot hole on my pulley to fit my ke10 pump. A 3rd difference is the heater hose connections. KE10's run both supply and return hoses down the manifold side of the block, but all later pumps appear to run one heater hose down each side. If you change to a later pump, you'll need to cut a hole in the firewall for the heater hose. Also, later pumps run extra crap. The KE10 pump is the best pump, but in future I'll press off the pulley boss and fit a later one, so I can run a plastic fan (old steel ones are nasty) That should at least give you something to look out for, unfortunately I can't tell you exactly what each model difference is.

I've got a 5K that I rebuilt, I don't mean Ebay 'rebuilt', I mean completely rebuilt. It has hydraulic lifters and it CLICKS. Always has. Gets worse if run a little low on oil but I've never got it that quiet. So I dunno what it is, I just live with it. Also, the fuel pump gets noisy about 5kms from when you run out of fuel. Yes, I've done it. Many times. Every time I think "oh shit what's that noise". :bash: yes I'm an idiot

Nope, it's not a typo, he's easily spent that restoring the car and by the look of it, it's been done very nicely.

Pics or didn't happen! there's only a couple about Aus that I know of, I'm interested to see which this is.

the plastic known as ABS (acyrylonitrile-butadene-styrene or something silly) can be chrome plated in a similar fashion to metal. Most modern car badges are made of this. I doubt that KE30's had ABS vents, i suspect most people use chrome plate, or there is an actual metal item on early ones.

Big set of multigrips the only way to roll.

Would be pretty hard to crack a sump without hitting something. did you end up repairing the carby flange? Must have really cranked it up to crack it. Best way would be to weld it and get it machined flat. Bolt it up to a plate and tack it, then pull off and weld the rest