philbey

Your starter motor, if it's in good condition, has ample grunt to crank your motor. With a high (11.5:1) comp 5K, I have my 40 year old 3K starter turning it over, although not as well in the current cold weather. There's probably a good chance your starter is flogged out, or like everyone's suggested, electrical connection issues.

The steel grade makes little difference as the elastic modulus doesn't vary much. Theyre either a different diameter, or arms are different length. Are you sure the factory ones isn't 18 -19mm and not 20.

Oh and also, Superduplex 2507 is another high on my list.

I'll happily hire it from you and I'll happily pay more than 10 bucks a day. I'm in blackwood, you still up there as well? Seriously, buy it and I'm there with $10/Carton/Fishtank/other similar payment.

Personally, titanium is high on the list because; highest strength to weight, corrosion resistance etc. I'm also partial to nickel though, wonderful alloying element, and I've got nickel miner shares that make my wallet happy. Oh wait, you nerds are talking music... PFFFT.

It'll be aftermarket, there's plenty of them out there. Maybe a dealer option or something similar.

like I've asked guys; don't make this thread a shit slinging match or it'll get closed.

Regardless, the point is that if you want to know, ask the engineer or your road authority. Simple.

Depends, there's a Bosch distributor and a Denso distributor and they are likely to be different. Earlier cars usually ran Denso. BUT I don't believe there were any 3K ke70s so it should be a 4K anyway, unless it's been changed over.

Parrot, apologies, you sent me these some time back but I never replied. A minor update though, I've got access to a laser cutter and I'm still keen to collect a library of gaskets. I've got a full 3T-GTE gasket kit ready to go onto the scanner this weekend, and they are nigh on impossible to get parts for. Anyone else with Gaskets they can ID, please go ahead and scan and post them. Put a ruler on the scanner as well to calibrate against.

There used to be a 3.5L per tonne restriction on P platers. I've been through Vicroads engineering a turbo bluebird and no equation was ever mentioned. Vicroads modification guide is typically vague, long and short engineer it. There's a street legal, blown V8 powered KE20 getting around vic. hell there's a street legal V12 3000hp 57 chev! Anything is possible to do legally.

Just do it. Clearly it's not gonna work for you in any capacity, might as well leave it and drift back into anonimity. Next point though (there's always a next point) can we please avoid making this thread a bag-other-forum thread? I don't like it and never have, and I'm sure most people here are the same, but let their actions speak for themselves. Slagging them off just brings our forum down to their level.

LoLz. Seriously guys you just did exactly what he was trying to avoid! :laff: Vicroads says: 2. Replacement engine is not of a type offered by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle or where alterations, or changes to the vehicle's frame or structure are made, and/or specially fabricated supports or structures are used You will need to attend a VicRoads Customer Service Centre for an inspection of the vehicle to confirm the new engine details. You will also need to complete a Change of Vehicle Description form and provide VicRoads with: * a VASS Approval Certificate from a VicRoads Vehicle Assessment Signatory * an original receipt for the purchase of the engine as proof of ownership of the engine http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/PermitsModificationsAndDefects/Modifications/NotifyingVicRoadsOfChangesAndModifications.htm If your modifying your 4K then just do it. If you're putting a new, non standard engine into the car, you need to have it engineered. Simple.

Totally dependant on where you live Carlos SA club rego uses any plates and you simply fill out a logbook on the day you drive. 90 days per year. I believe Vic has switched to a similar system. Edit: I see mason is also in qld so your comments are probably relevant.

Question Answered/ Close enough. This thread is descending into the world of stupid. Question is answered, closing....

Have you correctly adjusted your clutch cable? if you put in a new pressure plate, clutch plate and thrust bearing, but your cable adjustment is still set for the old worn stuff, then you will be preloading the thrust bearing on the pressure plate. Check adjustment first. Should have 10mm of freeplay on the pedal.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1861 Craft supplies man. It's crossed my mind already, just need a pair of good condition original lenses to mold from.

Roger Ebert, renowned film critic. He's the one who rolled out a couple of poor taste tweets in Reeds link.

yyou can get 100hp with big cam, high comp and cams. But it definitely will not be a hectic slider. Your ke55 is probably 20% heavier than my ke10 and with ~100 HP my car is quick and punchy fun. But that's about it...

They're 10b/11 indicators. I cracked a factory one on mine, chrome was still good, so I bought the Thai ones and fitted them. Look alright but they fade in sunlinght. Old ones look much sleeker but I've never seen a repro one.

No good. I've nothing but disdain for drink driving, but Ebert was totally out of line, especially given that it's not been proven that it was a contributing factor. Anecdotal evidence doesn't mean shit people.

Tridon parts finder is very good for details on all your cooling gear, such as thermo's, rad caps, switches etc. http://www.tridon.com.au/partfinder/default.aspx According to the parts finder, thermo on an AE82 4age (dunno if that's a redtop, not a big GE man) opens at 82 degrees.

You'll need to cut a centre hole and drill two mount holes on the firewall for a hydro. I'd also suggest you beef the firewall up in the area if possible. Hole will need to line up close to the vertical centreline of the clutch pedal. Then you'll need to modify the pedal to connect to the clutch cylinder yoke. Remember you need to "push" on the hydraulic, whereas your cable setup is a "pull" setup. I think you might find that either your master cylinder needs to be low on the firewall, or you will need to move the pedal pivot point upwards. Care should be taken with your pedal stroke you need to make sure they cylinder stroke corresponds with the lever arm (distance from the yoke to the pivot point). The ratio of pedal-pivot length to yoke-pivot length will also impact the force required to use the clutch. It's not a hugely complex job, but you should measure up and think carefully about it before you start.

I reckon my hecs is overpaid to the tune of a few grand, so BANG all that comes back. Spending all mine on the honeymoon, 10 week world tour, sweet. Nice one Ryan, I bought a lathe end 09/10 financial year (for tax reducing purposes funnily enough) but haven't had time to get the single-3 phase inverter wired up. Hercus 260, killer. I did last years but not 09/10's, and now I'm going back to revise my 08/09 because I didn't tally my living away from home allowances and I'm due a significant return I always find it funny that people seem to think they just "get" a tax return and don't realise that you only get one where you've overpaid tax in the first case (ie fluctuating overtime, taking unpaid leave etc). There's always deductions of course.

I don't think I've ever seen a windage tray for a K, you can make one with a bit of patience though.